Sports shooting from a crossbow in our country is not as developed as onion shooting. This state of affairs is due not to a lack of interest, but to the banal shortage of small equipment. The very same crossbow sport undoubtedly has a lot of advantages. It is a vast field for the disclosure and application of a certain kind of talent.

Author: Вячеслав

Specifications: Overall length -730 mm; Width total - 530 mm; Shoulder length -300 mm; Height without sight - 180 mm; Height with sight - 230 mm; Weight ~ 3kg; The cocking force is ~ 30 kg; The bowstring moves 210 mm;

Type of sight - only optical (installed software 3,5х17,5, mount brackets such as "swallowtail")
Material shoulders springs from the 412 "Muscovite", cut the "Bulgarka", to avoid holidays, constantly watered, holes just burned by arc welding (like the edges did not let go);

The descent force varies from about 1 to 1.8 kg, the descent works with a warning, an increase in effort is felt before the shot. Indicators of shooting (shooting was conducted lying from the stop in an enclosed room 25 m distance in three series of 5 rounds, arrows made of fiberglass, weight 25 g, length 300 mm, plumage triple height 8 mm):
- the maximum radius from the average hit point is 75 mm.
- the maximum diameter between the extreme hits of 120 mm.
- the average radius of 100% hit in three series of 68 mm.

Trigger "rotary nut with whisper", made of spring trimmings, first annealed (t0 = 8500C red color, incubation for 10 minutes and slow cooling with oven) and conducted all the metalworking, but left allowance for processing in places where there will be Friction, then hardened to about 45-46 HRC, (t0 = 8300C light cherry scarlet color, aging 10 min.)

And tempering (t0 = 2950C bright blue tint, cooling in the air). Then all the rubbing surfaces were polished. The mechanism itself is installed directly in the guide on the pins. Springs are made of a foldable metal meter.

The appliance was carved from solid wood (oak was taken). The board was made of 30x180 board, the groove was centered on the center with a jigsaw, drill and a narrow chisel, the treatment was first made with 10% ferric chloride (gives a black color), and then varnished, but this coating did not Liked it, too slippery in wet or sweaty hands.

I had to grind everything and treat it with special impregnation (I used Danish Oil for wood impregnation on knife handles), I covered it several times until it ceased to be absorbed, and then sanded in places with fine sandpaper (~ 500-100 grit for imported paper).

The size of the butt is fitted to me personally, so if you repeat it, do it with reserve, and then adjust it. The guide is assembled according to the type of the dural / getinaks / dural / getinaks / duralumin package, on M3x35 screws, the central plate comes out from below for attachment to the buttstock, assembled on bolts M6x30 with furniture with a semicircular bonnet, on the opposite side is attracted by nuts (holes for nuts on the hexagonal butt, I burned them with a few nuts fixed to the long bar).

The material for the guide was the duralumin strip 30x4, the getinax was taken 8 mm from the panel of the electrical cabinet. The drawing of the guide is executed with a reserve; When you make a bow stroke, it can be different, so you must first collect the bow and measure the bowstring, and then drill the holes for attaching the deck.

The deck is welded with argon welding from an aluminum plate 50x5 (the busbar from a transformer) and duralumin corners 40x20x4, to the rail it is fastened with two bolts M6x40.

Fastening the shoulders to the deck through the gaskets (this is necessary because the shoulders have an initial bend, and the deck is straight) and the pressure plates with three M6x25 bolts "furniture" (one shoulder);

The earrings for the blocks are made of steel, like the blocks themselves, the weight of one block is ~ 65 g, if you make the same of aluminum alloys, then the weight will decrease to 25 g. I tried to make blocks by casting into a sandy-clay mold, generally it turned out, but They were quickly cut by a cable.

The material was technically pure 99% aluminum, and the aging of the material was not possible to produce on this content with steel, and I think where to fit a duralumin billet of suitable size (or use epoxy plastics). The diameter of the blocks is 46 mm, the eccentricity is 11 mm.

The bowstring is made of 3 mm steel rope. In the PVC shell, in the places of contact with the surfaces, additional layers of the heat-shrink tube are put on, I seal the ends with hinges and squeeze it in the tube like a clutch on a motorcycle, and the use of the studs is necessary both for the initial tension and for subsequent tightening during operation.

The tie to the blocks is fastened through a pin that is inserted into the central hole, and opposite the hole with a diameter of 8 mm, which is opposite to the hole through which passes the axis of rotation of the block underneath in the groove of the block, two holes of 3 mm diameter are drilled through which the cable goes inside the block and rests on the pin.

The bowstring enters the blocks through the holes perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the block, and the loops at the ends are thrown onto the pin, one loop to the top, and the other to the bottom of the pin. It was through these holes that I cut aluminum blocks.

The stirrup is a cloth belt that is thrown around the deck, although it is possible to attach steel to the deck, and making it rotary can be used as bipods when shooting lying down or from the stop.
When pulling, I use a device consisting of a pair of blocks and a rope, when I squeeze, the rope is thrown over the butt, and I cling to the string of clips to the clips of the blocks, and pulling at the ends of the rope, which is twice enough for a tireless shooting, the idea was taken from Yu.V. . Shokareva

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