Self-made device for the manufacture of living water
|Self-made device for the manufacture of living water|
The plant has a multi-purpose purpose from its own healing and curing wounds, to germinating seeds and accelerating plant growth. In fact, it is noticed that if the plants are watered with live water (anolyte) in winter, they begin to bloom. Sores treated with dead water (catholyte) heal faster. In terms of improving my own body, I can only say one thing, this is purely individual and voluntary. There were a lot of articles about the use of water divided into fractions at one time - if you wish, you can easily find them. It is possible to assemble this device without any preliminary preparation from completely available tools found without leaving home.
The main parts are electrodes. In the manufacture of special difficulties do not have. The only thing that must be noted is that the material from which they are made should be only stainless steel. Technical, as you know, for such an installation will not work.
As can be seen from the figure - nothing complicated, two L-shaped platinum with a hole for fasteners and contacts. One plate has such a peculiar cut - when bent at an angle of the middle ledge, it is a hook for hanging the bag. It is not necessary to make such a fix on the second plate. The next part for the manufacture is plate stiffness. It is designed so that during the operation of the device there is no contact of the electrodes in any way with each other. 220 in the water, you know, the thing is not pleasant.
When used as a load-bearing structure of a conventional plastic lid for a can, this plate will not be superfluous, since during operation of the device there is a small, though almost imperceptible, heating, and you know how heated polyethylene behaves. So, just in case it does not hurt. The next detail is a bag for collecting catholyte. Here without female hands it will surely be a bit heavy. Bag material is thin tarpaulin. For example - a tarpaulin from a gas bag came in handy for me. The selection criterion is heavy air blowing through it. It is better not to use synthetic materials - it is difficult to guess what kind of muck they will single out in their work. When these components are ready, you can take the cover. The most common cover for banks. In it you need to make 3 holes: 2 mounting, one gas outlet.
When the device is operating, near the plates there is a noticeable gas evolution. Apparently the treatment proceeds according to the type of weak hydrolysis, respectively, the evolution of gas is a by-product. This hole is just to equalize the pressure inside and outside the can with the lid closed. The order of assembly of the device is clearly seen in the figure below:
As you can see, nothing complicated. It can be noted that there should be two nuts on each bolt. One for fixing the electrode, the other to ensure reliable contact. For the contact areas used by the diode type KD202, sandwiched between two washers. As a diode, you can use any with an operating voltage of about 400 volts. The only condition is that it should be connected as shown in the figure, otherwise you will get catholyte not in the bag, but around it, i.e. all the way around. If you apply a diode KD202, then you can attach an anode plate directly to its thread, note - an anode plate, since on the case it has an anode. And the cathode is then connected directly to 220. However, I myself applied a diode bridge in general. As you understand, the full-wave rectifier has twice the performance.
In operation, you can notice the following:
- The edges of the bag should be slightly above the water level so that the fractions do not mix.
- Exposure time 10-15 minutes. Or until lightly heated cans. You can certainly raise the literature and measure the acidity of catholyte by litmus papers, etc., but I think this is unnecessary. The strength of catholyte is quite possible to determine by smell.
- Do not use water directly from the tap. With chlorine contained in it, it can be assumed that HCl will be present in the catholyte, i.e. hydrochloric acid. Water must be defended at least 4-5 hours.
All dimensions are based on a 3-liter jar.
Supplement from our reader
Mikhail Klychkov firstname.lastname@example.org
The described method of obtaining "living" water has one drawback.
The fact is that the use of a separation bag is quite troublesome.
It is necessary to get "live" water very carefully, so as not to mix with
"dead". It is not comfortable.
I came across an article with a different way of getting "alive" and "dead"
The essence is as follows.
We need not one dielectric capacity for water, but two. Capacity needed
without necks, i.e. with straight walls.
Put the container next to a small gap and pour in both approximately
equal amount of water (but not to the brim). In one container we place the anode,
to another cathode. Now a little subtlety. Need to make
current conductor for installation between tanks. For this clean cotton
the roll is wrapped in clean gauze and moistened with water. All this
placed between banks so that the ends of the harness are in both
banks, i.e. connect the liquid cans such a kind of jumper.
Along this jumper the ions will move and accumulate in different
After the "separation" of water it will be enough just to turn off the voltage and
remove the "jumper" - "living" water in one bank, "dead" in another.
In the same article it is indicated that in the gap of one wire, coming from
rectifier bridge in the electrical network need to be included
light bulb 15 ... 25 W at 220 V (such low-power apparently put in
refrigerators, lights for sewing machines, etc.). First, it will protect
a circuit from a possible short circuit (with "k / z" in the circuit a light bulb
only it will burn in full heat). And secondly, it is needed as
indicator of the end of the process. We begin to share the water - the light is on.
Gradually, the brightness of its glow decreases. When the lamp goes out completely,
water separation can be considered complete.
I hope this information will be useful.
M - dead water
F - living water