Homemade device for making living water
|Homemade device for making living water|
The plant has a multi-purpose designation from own healing and healing of wounds, to germination of seeds and acceleration of plant growth. In fact, it is noted that if the living water (anolyte) is watered in winter plants, then they begin to bloom. Ranks treated with dead water (catholyte) heal faster. In terms of improving my own body, I can say only one thing, this is purely individual and voluntary. Articles about the use of water broken into factions in its time was published very much - if you want them you can easily find. You can assemble this device without any preliminary preparation from completely improvised means found without leaving home.
The main parts are electrodes. In the manufacture of special difficulties do not have. The only thing that must be noted - the material from which they are made must be only food grade stainless steel. Technical, as you know, for such an installation will not work.
As can be seen from the picture - nothing complicated, two L-shaped platinum with a hole for fastening and contact. One plate has such a peculiar propyl - when bending at an angle of the middle protrusion, it is a hook for hanging the pouch. On the second plate, it is not necessary to make such a fixing propyl. The next detail for manufacturing is the stiffening plate. It is designed to avoid touching the electrodes in any way during operation of the device. 220 in the water, you know the thing is not pleasant.
When using as a load-bearing structure of a conventional polyethylene lid for a jar, this plate will not be superfluous since there is little, if almost imperceptible, heating during the operation of the device, and how the heated polyethylene behaves is known to you. So, just in case it does not hurt. The next detail is a catholyte collection bag. It's just that it will be hard without women's hands. Material for the bag is a thin tarp. For example - I needed a tarpaulin from a gas bag. The criterion of selection is a heavy blowing of air through it. Synthetic materials are best not to use - what kind of mucks are given in the work to guess is difficult. When these components are ready, you can take the lid. The most common lid for a jar. In it, you need to make 3 holes: 2 fasteners, one gas outlet.
When the device is operating, gas is noticeably visible near the plates. Apparently, the treatment goes on the type of weak hydrolysis, respectively, the evolution of gas - a by-product. This hole is just for leveling the pressure inside and outside the can with the lid closed. The order of the device assembly is clearly visible in the figure below:
As you can see, nothing complicated. It can be noted that the nuts on each bolt must be two. One for fixing the electrode, the other for ensuring a reliable contact. For contact, the sites are applied from diodes of the KD202 type, sandwiched between two washers. As a diode, you can apply any with a working voltage of about 400 volts. The only condition is that you need to connect it as shown in the figure, otherwise you will get catholyte not in the bag, but around it, i.e. all the way around. If you use a diode KD202, then attach directly to its thread directly to the anode plate, note - anodic, because on the body of the anode. And the cathode was then connected directly to 220. True, I myself used a diode bridge in general. As you understand, the full-wave rectifier has twice the performance.
On operation it is possible to notice the following:
- The edges of the bag should be slightly above the water level, so that the fractions do not mix.
- The exposure time is 10-15 minutes. Or to lightly heat the jars. You can certainly raise the literature and measure the acidity of catholyte litmus paper, etc., but it seems to me that it is superfluous. The fortress of catholyte can be determined by smell.
- Do not use water directly from the tap. With chlorine contained in it, it can be assumed that there will be HCl in the catholyte, i.e. hydrochloric acid. Water should be defended for at least 4-5 hours.
All dimensions are based on a 3-liter jar
Addition from our reader
Mikhail Klychkov email@example.com
The described method of obtaining "living" water has one drawback.
The fact is that using the separation bag is rather troublesome.
Take the "living" water should be very careful not to mix with
"dead". It is not comfortable.
I came across an article with another way of getting "live" and "dead"
The essence of the following.
We need not one dielectric capacity for water, but two. Capacity needed
without necks, i. e. with straight walls.
We put the containers next to a small gap and pour into both approximately
an equal amount of water (but not to the brim). In one container we put the anode,
in another cathode. Now a little subtlety. It is necessary to make
conductor for installation between tanks. To do this, pure cotton
roll is wrapped in a clean gauze and wetted with water. All this
is placed between the banks in such a way that the ends of the harness are in both
banks, i. we connect the liquids of cans with such a peculiar bridge.
This jumper will move ions and accumulate in different
After the "separation" of water, it will only be enough to turn off the voltage and
remove the "jumper" - "live" water in one bank, "dead" in another.
In the same article it is pointed out that in the break of one wire coming from
rectifier bridge in the electrical network to be included
electric bulb 15 ... 25 W to 220 V (such low power is apparently put in
refrigerators, lighting sewing machines, etc.). First, it will protect
circuit from a possible short circuit (at "k / z" in the circuit a light bulb
only something will burn in full heat). And secondly, it is needed as a
end-of-process indicator. We start to divide the water - the light is on.
Gradually, the brightness of its glow decreases. When the lamp goes out completely,
the separation of water can be considered complete.
I hope this information will be useful.
M - dead water
F - living water