Evminov board do it yourself
Many acquaintances with back problems and in conversations with them often have the theme of the Evminov board. This is some kind of magic bulletin board, classes on which solve almost any back problems. Here it is only very expensive. Many dreamed of making it their own hands. I found and spread for them a description and detailed manufacturing technology with photos.General view of the board. The board is easily adjustable to slope to the wall. The position of the carriage on the board is also easily adjusted with one hand without additional tools. There are all the characteristics of the original board.
Carriage close-up. Strength tested in practice: can be used as a horizontal bar for a person weighing 80 kg, pulling up without jerks.
What you need to buy:
We go to the building supermarket and buy:
Bar pine unpolished 50x150x3000. For those who are not familiar with the topic - this is a long, solid wooden board, relatively cheap, used for rough construction work. She is not hewn. In order to put it in order, you will need upholstery fabric, but more on that later. In the photo a piece of this bar.
We order the cutting of this bar so that you can do it qualitatively strictly perpendicularly on the circular. We make 2 pieces: the first piece of the length that corresponds to your height (see the attached table from the manufacturer in the photo). Second piece 270 mm
Next step: make a work surface. Dimensions: 260mm wide and as long as you chose from the table for your height.
I made from pieces of furniture cabinet chipboard (slab of glued sawdust) of white color with a thickness of 16 mm, which I already had on the farm.
Usually chipboard is sold with large plates of 2.5 x 3 meters and in our case it makes no sense to buy a whole plate. You can use the doors from the old cabinet or something from the farm or buy the remnants of chipboard in the same building supermarket in the woodworking department. There are often pieces from large orders. The surface does not have to be solid. the carrier will be made of wooden beams. You can take a few pieces of the desired size and order gluing plastic edge 2mm around the perimeter. It turns out very well and pretty.
Remember: the main task of the working surface is to be slippery, smooth and not absorb moisture
Then we buy cuttings for shovels and choppers. One handle for a shovel with a length of 1 meter, about 40mm in diameter, will serve as a crossbar at the base. It may be of soft wood. The second cutting is 30 mm in diameter and 1.5 m long; it is conically sharpened at one end, solid wood, beech.
Then we buy a board from the discharge of a step for ladders. Carpet edges will be made from it. It must be strong solid wood to withstand the weight of a person. I used a glued maple board 200x900 mm, remnants of the photo
And also choose one rail mounting spliced 2x40x2000 (the remainder in the photo)
Now we go to the department of metal products and buy:
- 1. Bolt 8x70mm
- 2. A long metal rod with a thread, diameter 8 mm, length at least 660 mm (cut into two pieces of 330 mm)
- 3. Washers, nuts 8 mm, 5 - 6 pieces
- 4. Long-link chain 4 mm, length 3 m (the board will be suspended on a chain. The factory board is suspended on a nylon cable that you can also buy at the building supermarket, but the chain is much more convenient for adjusting the height - you can switch to the right link and easy to change the angle)
- 5. Screws 50 mm, more
- 6. 2 wood screws 6x100 with washers (for fixing the crossbar at the base)
- 7. Galvanized fire carbine
- 8. Dowel expansion twisted (twist into a wall or ceiling)
We also need tires to beat the crossbar at the base of the board. Rubber pieces in the building supermarket is not for sale. You can use a rubber hose, or buy it at a flea market.
Now a very important material, which is not sold in the Epicenter - fabric for upholstery of the carrier beam and the base of the carriage. In our case, the fabric from the military overcoat is perfect. It is dense enough not to gather in folds under the influence of loads and shock-absorbing, in order to save us from unnecessary squeaks and also to be a seal in the process of locking the carriage on the board. Cashmere from an old coat is an alternative.
With the materials finished, now proceed to manufacturing.
To work with the basic tools, it is enough to have a drill, a saw on a tree, a metal saw, a hammer and a set of drills.
Making the foundation. Saw off a piece of a shovel shaft 600mm long. Cut pieces of rubber, we trim the ends of the crossbar with them, nail them with studs. In the place of attachment we make holes and grooves for the caps of our screws on the tree in order to drown them and not to scratch the parquet.
Now we are preparing the timber: it is necessary to cut out a part of the timber from one end (blue dotted line) in order to drown our crossbar into it.
To do this, take the cutter on the tree and from the ends we drill through the timber, and then cut the jumpers on both sides
Now from the reverse end of the timber we are preparing a chain mount. The chain is attached at the bottom and goes up through the inclined through hole. Overall plan.
View from above. It is necessary to cut a semicircular recess from one end on the working surface of chipboard so that the chain runs freely
Now we cut a piece of cloth, wrap the bearing bar with it so that the edges fall on the upper part, which will hide under the bearing surface and pin it with such a stapler as in the photo. If there is no mounting stapler, the clerical will do. softwood timber
Now the assembly: we are threading the chain, fastening the crossbar at the base, screwing the bearing surface on top of the timber with screws.
A spiral hook is attached to the ceiling or wall.
The finished board can be hung and adjusted the angle of inclination with the help of a carabiner clinging to the right link.
Adjust the height of the table (see above)
Now we make the carriage. Maple glued board cut into two identical pieces 200x320mm. It will be the ends. In the ends we drill holes for the crossbars with a diameter of 32 mm. All dimensions are specified with the exception of where ???. It depends on the thickness of the fabric (red), with which you embrace the base of the carriage and the carrying bar (blue). With the fabric from the overcoat it turned out 105 mm, but here it is important to measure out already in place so that the carriage is attached tightly without buckling.
For drilling holes for the rails we use a special tool.
Preparing the base of the carriage. Take a short piece of timber (270mm) and drill two 9 mm through holes for 8 mm metal rods. If there is no such a long drill, drill from both sides for as long as the drill length is enough, and then drill a groove from the ends (shown in red) in order to connect the two channels together and pass the rods through.
Be sure to put the ends on the glue. The moment will do. We put everything together and tighten the nuts. Spray the base with a cloth and let the glue dry. It is necessary to do it carefully and carefully, to observe all right angles and reliably tighten and glue. This section will withstand the greatest loads.
Ready carriage assembly
The upper crossbeam 550 mm long rigidly fastens on the studs hammered into the ends
The bottom bar has free play
In order to slide the carriage down, we cut our mounting rail into slices and fasten it with equal pitch along the entire length of the carrying bar below the board
All materials, except for upholstery fabric and pieces of rubber, are sold in the building supermarket.As a result, about 200 UAH + some materials from the household were spent on materials, cutting and gluing the edges. It was a pleasure to get the job done successfully, and the thing done with your own hands makes you want to practice more often on this simulator, which is a prerequisite for a good result!
Finally, I want to add that for practicing upside down, it is not convenient to cling with bare feet to hard crossbars. You need to wear some shoes. By the way on all photos from the center of Evminov customers are engaged in sneakers.
For the convenience of doing barefoot at home, you need to make four soft nozzles as in professional simulators and put them on wooden rails before clinging to your feet.
The base will also be wood, and the top will be covered with leatherette or leather with a soft lining inside. In the figure, leatherette is schematically marked in blue.
That's it, the board is ready! I performed all the work with severe back pain, so the quality of performance was in second place, in the first place were low cost, ease of production and reliability, as in the Kalashnikov assault rifle
You can pay more attention to quality, polish wooden parts well, coat them with varnish, use a fabric of a different color, and choose any chipboard and color to suit your interior. You can also polish the carrying bar and varnish it, but it takes time and a healthy back. For the convenience of training on the board itself, you can put the usual tourist karemat. Then lie on it gently and comfortably. Experiment!
If you do it yourself, post photos of your versions.
All health and successful construction!