DIY Evminov board
Many friends have problems with their backs and in conversations with them, the theme of the Evminov board often pops up. This is some kind of miraculous board, classes on which solve almost any problems with the back. That's just it is very expensive. Many dreamed of making it with their own hands. I found and post for them a description and detailed manufacturing technology with photos.General view of the board. The board is easily adjustable by tilting to the wall. The position of the carriage on the board is also easily adjustable with one hand without an additional tool. All the characteristics of the original board are present.
Carriage close-up. Strength tested in practice: can be used as a horizontal bar for a person weighing 80 kg, pulling up without jerking.
What you need to buy:
We go to the construction supermarket and buy:
Unedged pine beam 50x150x3000. For those who are not familiar with the topic - this is a long durable wooden board, relatively cheap, used for rough construction work. She is not healed. In order to put it in order, you will need an upholstery fabric, but more on that later. In the photo there is a scrap of this bar.
We order the cutting of this beam so that you do it qualitatively strictly perpendicular to the circular. We make 2 pieces: the first piece of the length that matches your height (see the attached table from the manufacturer in the photo). The second piece is 270 mm
The next step: make a work surface. Dimensions: 260mm wide and as long as you chose from the table for your height.
I made from pieces of furniture cabinet chipboard (a plate of glued sawdust) white 16 mm thick, which I already had in my household.
Usually chipboard is sold with large 2.5 x 3 meter boards and in our case it makes no sense to buy a whole board. You can use the doors from the old cabinet or something from the farm or buy the remnants of chipboard in the same building supermarket in the woodworking department. Pieces from large orders often remain there. The surface does not have to be solid because the carrier will be made of wood. You can take several pieces of the right size and order gluing with a 2mm plastic edge around the perimeter. It turns out very good and pretty.
Remember: the main task of the work surface is to be slippery, smooth and not absorb moisture
Then we buy cuttings for shovels and choppers. One shovel handle for a length of 1 meter, with a diameter of about 40 mm, will serve us as a crossbeam at the base. It can be from soft wood. The second handle is 30 mm in diameter, 1.5 m long, conically sharpened at one end, solid wood, Beech.
Then we buy a board from the category of steps for stairs. The ribs of the carriage will be made of it. It must be strong from hard wood to support the weight of a person. I used a glued maple board 200x900 mm, the remains in the photo
And also select one mounting rail spliced 2x40x2000 (the rest in the photo)
Now we go to the department of metal products and buy:
- 1. Bolt 8x70mm
- 2. A long metal rod with a thread, diameter 8 mm, length at least 660 mm (sawn into two pieces of 330 mm)
- 3. Washers, nuts 8 mm, 5 - 6 pcs.
- 4. The long chain 4 mm, length 3 m (the board will be suspended on a chain. The factory board is suspended on a nylon cable that can also be bought at a construction supermarket, but the chain is much more convenient for adjusting the height - you can switch to the carabiner fixed at the base of the board to the desired link and easily change the angle of inclination)
- 5. Screws 50 mm, larger
- 6. 2 screws for wood 6x100 with washers (for fixing the crossbar at the base)
- 7. Galvanized fire carbine
- 8. The expansion expansion bolt shield (we will twist in a wall or a ceiling)
We also need rubber to beat the crossbar at the base of the board. Rubber pieces in a construction supermarket is not for sale. You can use a rubber hose, or buy it at a flea market.
Now a very important material that is not sold in the Epicenter is the fabric for upholstering the load-bearing beam and the base of the carriage. In our case, fabric from a military overcoat is ideal. It is dense enough not to crease under the influence of loads and shock absorbing to save us from unnecessary creaks and to be a sealant in the process of locking the carriage on the board. As an alternative, cashmere from an old coat is suitable.
We’ve finished with the materials, now we are starting to manufacture.
To work from the basic tools, it is enough to have a drill, a saw for wood, a hacksaw for metal, a hammer and a set verified.
We make the foundation. Saw off a piece of shafts of a shovel 600mm long. Cut out pieces of rubber, tighten the ends of the crossbar with them, nail them with cloves. In the place of attachment, we make holes and recesses for the caps of our screws on wood, so as to drown them and not scratch the parquet.
Now we prepare the beam: it is necessary to cut out a part of the beam from one end (blue dotted line), then to drown our crossbar into it.
To do this, we take a milling cutter on a tree and from the ends we drill a timber through, and then we cut the jumpers on both sides
Now from the opposite end of the beam we are preparing the chain fastening. The chain is attached at the bottom and goes up through the through inclined hole. Overall plan.
View from above. It is necessary to cut a semicircular recess from one end on the working surface of the chipboard so that the chain runs freely
Now we cut out a piece of fabric, wrap it around the load-bearing beam so that the edges fall on the upper part, which will hide under the load-bearing surface and pin it with such a stapler as in the photo. If there is no mounting stapler, a clerical one is also suitable. softwood beam
Now the assembly: we pass the chain, we fasten the crossbar at the base, with screws we screw the bearing surface from above to the timber.
A spiral hook is attached to the ceiling or wall.
The finished board can be suspended and the angle of inclination can be adjusted using a carabiner clinging to the desired link
Adjust the height according to the table (see above)
Now do the carriage. We cut maple glued board into two identical pieces of 200x320 mm. It will be the ends. At the ends we drill holes for the crossbars with a diameter of 32 mm. All dimensions are accurate except where ???. It depends on the thickness of the fabric (red) with which you will fit the base of the carriage and the supporting beam (blue). With the fabric from the overcoat it turned out 105 mm, but here it is important to measure it already in place so that the carriage fastens tight without a chatter.
To drill holes for the crossbars we use a special tool
Preparing the base of the carriage. We take a short piece of timber (270mm) and drill two through holes of 9 mm for 8 mm metal rods. If there is no such a long drill, we drill from both sides how long the drill will be enough, and then we drill a groove from the ends (shown in red) in order to connect the two channels together and thread the rods through.
Be sure to put the ends on the glue. The moment will do. We put everything together and tighten the nuts. We encircle the base with a cloth and let the glue dry. It is necessary to do carefully and accurately, observe all right angles and reliably tighten and glue. This section will withstand the greatest loads.
Complete carriage assembly
A 550 mm long upper bar is rigidly attached to studs clipped into the ends
The lower crossbar has free play
So that the carriage does not slide down, we cut our mounting rail into slices and fasten it with an equal pitch along the entire length of the supporting beam from below under the board
All materials, except for upholstery and pieces of rubber, are sold in the construction supermarket.As a result, about 200 UAH + some materials from the household were spent on materials, cutting and gluing the edges. It was a pleasure from a job well done, and a do-it-yourself thing makes you want to exercise more often on this simulator, which is a prerequisite for a good result!
In conclusion, I want to add that for practicing upside down, clinging with bare feet to hard bars is not convenient. You need to wear some shoes. By the way, on all photos from the Evminov center, clients are engaged in sneakers.
For the convenience of practicing barefoot at home, you need to make four soft tips as in professional simulators and put them on wooden beams before clinging to your legs.
The base will also be a tree, and on top covered with dermatin or leather with a soft lining inside. In the figure, dermatitis is schematically marked in blue.
That's all, the board is ready! All the work I performed with severe back pain, so the quality of work was in second place, in the first place were cheapness, ease of production and reliability, as in a Kalashnikov assault rifle
You can pay more attention to quality, polish the wood parts well, varnish them, use a different color fabric, and choose particleboard of any color and structure for your interior. You can also polish the supporting beam and varnish it, but this takes time and a healthy back. For the convenience of classes on the board itself, you can put a regular tourist karemat. Then lie on it softly and comfortably. Experiment!
If you do it yourself, post photos of your versions.
All health and successful construction!