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§ 12 Ways to change the meter's power circuit.

So, take a look at several ways that are offered, so to speak, for free. My comments will be in italics.


The meter switching circuit is changed in such a way that it is connected not to the supply line, but to the fuse blocks. The phasing of the counter remains standard, so a test with an indicator will show that the phase and zero are in place. The scheme of the garland consists of two blown fuses with soldered wires of the desired length, a fuse pad for protection against short circuits, plug and socket. The plug is plugged into any outlet in the house with respect to polarity, after which all the sockets in the house become “left-handed”, as they are powered past the meter. In the socket garlands include the load, and the counter begins to rotate in the opposite direction. The more this load, the faster the counter is coiled. To restore the accounting, it is enough to unscrew the fuses with which the garland is connected and screw in the ordinary ones. The garland is tied up and hidden until the next time. (There are two nuances on the move: first, the counter should be in the house, which is possible only in rural areas and very rarely in urban areas, and secondly, throwing garlands around the apartment. Personally, even when I clean the house with a vacuum cleaner, minutes of cleaning, zaputsya about it 15 times .. To be torn off this garland - that's for sure)

I don’t provide a scheme here, because even I, a professional electrician, had to look at it for a long time to understand, but the essence is simple: instead of native traffic jams, jumpers made of traffic jams are put in and power supply comes from them. That is, food is taken to the counter. But I was especially impressed by the photos.
I would call them "the electrician's nightmare," or "tomorrow we will burn everything together," "the story of how I was shocked by electricity." And these people are advised to do something with home wiring!

Pay attention to the plug on the left, it is either broken, or wrapped with adhesive tape (duct tape is known deficiency :) ), or it is not half. In short, it will be difficult to stick it. The wire is torn and single core, most likely aluminum, clear signs of massive twists.

Variations on the theme "Such people are not taken into astronauts". The likelihood that the guy who will screw in the left plug will strike with current, if not 100%, then something very close to that. Obvious signs of uninsulated live parts (although on the other hand it should be so!)

Since the last plug was broken and went to move on the photo above, there are already wires plugged directly into the outlet. And of course, I may be wrong (it’s hard to see), but in my opinion only one wire fits to the fuse, and to outlet 2, that is, it will be difficult for him to burn, and wiring is easy ...

Confirmation of the theory of scotch. The blue wire on the left is clearly covered with scotch tape. Although on the other hand they could not wind up at all, but they shook it all the same! Well done!

Although at the end of the way everyone wrote relatively honestly:
The circuit is designed for induction meters. Grounding is not necessary, the meter is turned on with respect to standard phasing. The meter and fuses must be located inside the house. The included "garland" is clearly visible, so it can only be used with the doors closed. Outlets in the house are not protected against short circuits. (The risk of fire is extremely high) For safety reasons, it is recommended that you first plug the plug into a power outlet, then twist the fuse to zero, then the second fuse into phase. Disconnection is in reverse order (when the fuses are on, the plug is live). (The probability of testing yourself for resistance to 220 V is also extremely high)
Conclusion: very much, I repeat a very dangerous and ambiguous idea, help better the starving children of Africa, and throw it away. To the positive should be attributed to the fact that in normal performance it will still work.