Perfumery

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242. Low-alcohol and non-alcoholic perfumes. 243. Fragrant sachets. 244. Aromatic smoking paper.
245. Smoking candles. 246. Aromatic bath.
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242. Low-alcohol and non-alcoholic perfumes.

Nowadays, low-alcohol and non-alcoholic perfumes play an important role in perfumery. Under the first - means such spirits, in which the highest content of alcohol reaches 40 |, that is, to a degree of vodka, and the lowest to 10 |. For these varieties, you need to be very careful in the choice of odorous substances and be guided exactly by the solubility table (see below), otherwise many of them, with a low alcohol content, are again released from the mixture. It is best to use oils that are free of terpenes and sequiterpenes.
Recently, manufacturers of essential oils have launched such oils, free of terpenes and sequiterpenes, which do not produce turbid mud in low alcohol. These oils should be used for the production of low-alcohol and non-alcoholic spirits, since they have: 1) greater concentration than conventional essential oils Oil; 2) the purity of the smell due to the removal of terpene from the essential oil that interferes with the aroma; 3) greater preservation, since terpenes, which are rapidly oxidized by air oxygen, are removed; 4) solubility in a weak alcohol or vodka and, finally, 5) the resulting low cost.
Free from terpenes and sequiterpene oils can be dissolved in ordinary vodka, but it is better to proceed as follows: first dissolve the essential oil in 95% alcohol and to this solution gradually add, with frequent shaking, a sufficient amount of distilled water, bringing the dilution to 20 |. If you want to make cheap low-alcohol perfumes, then prepare a 1% solution of essential oil in 70% alcohol or 10% solution in 80% alcohol and dilute it with water, in some cases up to 10 |
In the manufacture of low-alcohol spirits, they encounter difficulties in filtering, but they can be easily eliminated. First of all, you need to ensure that so many odorous substances and essential oils are put in the mixture, how many can actually dissolve in diluted alcohol that goes to another fortress. If you take more, then after mixing an excessive amount of odoriferous substances will again separate out and remain on the filter during filtering, which certainly should be avoided. However, excess odorous substances can easily be determined: after mixing with water and accurately determining alcohol strength, small fat particles or a pearly plaque of a larger or smaller size appear on the surface of the milky-turbid mixture, which mostly come to the walls of the vessel, where they accumulate. In cases where such fat particles are noticeable, we advise you to add more alcohol or, with a new portion, take less odorous substances for odor.
Below are a few recipes for low alcohol spirits.
First, odorous substances such as vanillin, coumarin, heliotropin, artificial musk, etc., are dissolved in the prescribed amount in 95% alcohol, then the essential oils st. After repeated shaking and complete dissolution, add small portions, with constant shaking, distilled water.

1) The perfume "Rose". Mix:
35 parts of geranium oil (Reunion) st
2 parts of patchouli oil st
10 parts of linalool oil st
3 parts of vanillin st
5 pieces of pink Bulgarian oil st
10 parts bergamot oil st
5 pieces of artificial musk
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts of distilled water.
Leave, with frequent shaking, for 14 days and filtered.

2) The perfume "Lilac". Mix:
10 parts of kanang oil st
20 parts of vanillin
180 parts of terpineol
3 parts of melleol
30 parts of heliotropin
10 parts of linalool oil st
40 parts of benzene ether acetate
5 pieces of artificial musk
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts of distilled water.
After 14 days, filter.

3) The perfume "Heliotrope". Mix:
8 parts of melleol
60 parts of vanillin
100 parts of heliotropin
10 parts of linalool oil st
3 pieces of clove oil st
10 parts bergamot oil st
5 pieces of artificial musk
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts of distilled water.
After 14 days, filter.

4) Perfume "Hyacinth", Mix:
60 parts of heliotropin
24 parts of hyacinthin
30 parts bergamot oil st
5 parts of kanang oil st
50 parts of terpineol
5 pieces of artificial musk
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts of distilled water.
After 14 days, filter.

5) Perfume "Violet". Mix:
50 parts bergamot oil st
10 parts of kanang oil st
10 parts of geranium oil (Reunion)
20 parts of Vodoran
100 parts of the essence solution of violet leaves (L and F)
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts of distilled water.
After 14 days, filter.

6) Spirits "Lily of the valley". Mix:
100 parts of linalool oil st
10 parts bergamot oil st
10 parts of kanang oil st
5 pieces of artificial musk
100 parts of terpineol
10 parts of vanillin
10,000 parts-95% alcohol
10,000 parts of distilled water.
Filter after 14 days.

7) The cologne is double. Mix:
10 pieces of neroli oil st
50 pieces of Petit Grain st oil
10 parts of Citronella oil st
2 parts of orange sweet butter st
5 parts of rosemary oil st
5 parts of lavender oil st
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts of distilled water.
After 14 days, filter. The amount of water, if desired, can be increased.
For cheaper grades of cologne do not take neroli oil st.

8) Cologne (cheap). Mix:
100 parts bergamot oil st
10 parts of rosemary oil st
60 pieces of Portuguese oil st
30 parts of lemon oil st
30,000 parts of 95% alcohol
45,000 parts of distilled water is filtered after 8 days.

9) Ozonogen. Mix:
3 pieces of noble fir oil st
1 part of lavender oil st
2 parts of eucalyptus oil st
1000 parts of 95% alcohol
500 parts of distilled water.

10) Eau de toilette "Florida" (Florida Water). Mix:
30 parts of lavender oil st
40 parts bergamot oil st
40 parts of lemon oil st
25 pieces of clove oil st
40 parts of bitter st
12 parts of orange flower oil
1 part of rose oil
1000 parts of 95% alcohol
1000 parts of distilled water.
Lightly colored in pink.

11) Eau de toilette "Sylvia" ("Forest Water"):
480 pieces of pine oil st
60 pieces of juniper oil st
60 parts of eucalyptus oil st
6 parts clove oil
1 part cinnamon oil
1 part coumarin
1 part vanillin
1000 parts of 95% alcohol
1000 parts of distilled water.

12) Eau de Portugal Eau de toilette:
15000 parts of neroli oil
5000 parts of lemon oil
2500 parts of bergamot oil
2500 parts of rosemary oil
500 parts of rose oil
250 parts of orange flower oil
250 parts clove oil
10 pieces of artificial musk
5 parts of vanillin
1 part of Nerolin
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts of distilled water.

When composing other toilet waters, one should bear in mind that adding to substances of 20% liquid such as borax, ammonia, etc. Causes turbidity and gives a sediment. In such cases, you need to use a stronger alcohol.
The second group includes nonalcoholic perfumes (Sinalco), for which water is the basis. Non-alcoholic spirits are prepared either by digesting strongly smelling plants in water, or by adding odorous substances to distilled water. In the latter case, the water must be absolutely distilled, so that it does not deteriorate. When preparing non-alcoholic spirits from plants, the leaves and roots are cut very finely or even turn into powder. Shredded herbs are then placed in a closed vessel and boiled in a small amount of water. They can also be distilled with water; We recommend this method, although it is slightly more expensive. Therefore, for more expensive varieties of non-alcoholic spirits, water is taken, distilled together with the flowers of the rose or orange color. In water usually add a little salicylic acid to protect from spoilage. But often non-alcoholic spirits are prepared in such a way that odorous substances are simply added to distilled water and shaken well. First you should make a sample and determine how many odorous substances dissolve in water and how much remain undissolved. This quantity, as can be seen from the solubility table, is not very large, but it is quite sufficient. Odorous substances, especially essential oils, can also be carefully pounded first in a porcelain mortar with carbonic magnesium and then added to the water, then shake it thoroughly, then the mixture is filtered. Here again it is possible to recommend oils st, i.e. free from terpenes, because with them it is possible to make comparatively good nonalcoholic perfumes. Paints for coloring must, of course, be soluble in water.

243. Fragrant sachets.

Sachet powders are powdered aromatic herbs to which real or artificial odorous substances are mixed to enhance the odor, and fragrance resins are also used to fix the odor, because it is these powders that need to be fixed, even though they are natural products . For this purpose, musk and benzoic tinctures are especially suitable, and any fragrant pitches can be used. It is recommended to use resins in a highly concentrated solution, since in this form they have a stronger effect than if they are mixed with a sachet in a powder farm. The fact is that the aroma inherent in the resin does not show enough effect in this form, and since the resin in the dry state can not mix so well with the herbs, it does not fix the odor properly. With musk, the situation is somewhat different. Real or artificial musk is rubbed very carefully with pumice powder or with fine quartz sand in such a way that it can be better "opened" and let out of itself all its smell. If you take a tincture of musk, then the powder for the sachet will in most cases be too moist. But instead of the above-mentioned, a few heavy materials can be taken for grinding carbonated magnesia, a powder of iris or violet root, but they do not have such sharp edges as pumice or quartz sand, and therefore musk does not "reveal" completely.
For a sachet powder, a relatively large number of fixing substances, especially artificial musk, is used, and a number of cheap varieties of violet sachets are nothing more than ordinary iris powder mixed with powdered artificial musk. All aromatic herbs and plants are suitable for sachets, which, if possible, are tried to be turned into powder or, at least, crushed as small as possible. For example, sandalwood, cedar wood, rosewood, rose leaves, lavender flowers, muscat color, cassia color, iris root, clove, cinnamon, orange peel, thin bean, vetiver root, patchouli leaves, almonds And almond bran. For fixing, you can take musk or musk remnants, as well as residues from filtering fixing agents. Further, for the sachet, it is possible to use with great success the residues on the filter paper through which the perfume is filtered, as well as the filter paper itself, well dried and powdered.
Making powders for a sachet is very simple. Mix the appropriate powders, sift them through a not too frequent sieve and, if necessary, still stifle a little, after which they are again wiped through a sieve. For this purpose it is recommended to use closed drums so that the smell from the powder mixture does not evaporate and that the powder particles do not dissipate in the air. A strongly concentrated solution of the resin is triturated with carbonic magnesium or with an iris root and added to the powder.
The sachets are made in a variety of ways. The above-described powders, after perfume, are scattered in paper or silk bags or in silk pads lined with cotton wool. Also, it is possible to compact the finished powders into tablets or lozenges and elegantly pack them for sale. In this case, it is only necessary to add a little binding agent in the form of a solution from the tragacanth or dextrin, but the mass must nevertheless be relatively dry so that it does not get stuck in the press machine.
It should be ensured that when using liquid odorous substances and essential oils, add them to the basic powder not in a larger quantity than it can actually absorb into itself. Also, never just fill the sachet with freshly prepared powders; It is necessary to allow them to stand for several days, so that the liquid odorous substances can be completely absorbed into the prepared mass. Otherwise, very soon it will be necessary to make sure that the package becomes spotty, since liquid odoriferous substances added to the powder in too large quantities or not having time to soak into the bulk, protrude on the surface of the powder with a fat layer and penetrate into the wrapping paper. Even parchment paper does not help against this, not to mention the fact that the most porous paper should be consumed to pack sachets so that the smell of the powder can evaporate more easily and more strongly aromatize objects adjacent to the sachet.

244. Aromatic smoking paper.

Of the smoking drugs most often require a smoking paper. It is prepared in the following way. Impregnate the non-glued passage paper first with the solution of the saltpeter, and then, when the paper is completely dry, impregnate with the following mixture:
250 parts of the violet root (in powder)
100 parts of dew incense (in powder)
12 parts of myrrh (in powder)
10 pieces of artificial musk (in powder)
1000 parts of 95% alcohol or cologne,
This mixture is insisted for a month, then filtered. The paper is impregnated with large sheets, and then cut into strips with the inscriptions of the firm and the name. This paper is called either French or Armenian.

245. Smoking candles.

Smoking candles or "nuns" enjoy great sympathy among the people, which, perhaps, is facilitated by the extremely convenient use of them. In addition, they are an important subject of export to Muslim countries, where alcoholic drugs are prohibited.
Preparation of smoking candles is as follows: their constituent parts are mixed in a porcelain mortar into a plastic mass. From the latter, sticks with a thickness of 1 cm are made on a pencil machine, they are cut, they are rolled using a small plate, like a suppository, into a pointed cone. In the production of large quantities, you can use special machines. A more attractive look is given to smoking candles with a powder coating of colored bronze.
Here is a tried-and-true recipe, borrowed from A. Klinge's collection.
3,500 parts of charcoal (in powder)
100 parts of ammonium nitrate (in powder)
100 parts of the tragic (in powder)
3,000 parts (approximately) of water.
A thick dough is prepared from these products and added:
100 parts of styrax
100 parts of freshly ground resin
1 part coumarin
1 part vanillin,
Mix and make out from the mass of smoking candles, as indicated above.

246. Aromatic bath.

Already in ancient times, aromatic baths were in great use. Such baths are very pleasant and useful, especially in the hot season, as they refresh and strengthen the body. To enhance the effect, add sodium chloride or ammonia. Pine water for bath. Mix:
50 Pieces of Pine Oil
5 parts of lavender oil
100 parts of ammonia.

Pine bath salt. Mix:
100 parts of table salt
15 Pieces of Pine Oil
5 parts of lavender oil.
After the bath, the body is wiped dry and massaged.