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How to rewind back the electric meter

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A typical all-Russian counter has four terminals: 1-2-3-4. Between terminals 1 - 2, a current winding is included, which has low resistance and consists of several turns of thick copper wire.
Terminals 3-4 inside are closed together.
Between cl. 1 and 3-4 voltage winding is included. The windings feed the magnetic cores, the field of which causes the measuring mechanism disk to rotate. Power accounting occurs by multiplying the instantaneous values ​​of current and voltage acting on the windings. In this case, the instantaneous mutual direction of flow in the windings is also important. If in one of the windings to change it to the opposite, then the direction of rotation of the disk will also change. Our task is to stop the current in the current winding or change its direction to the opposite.
How can this be achieved?
You can stop the passage of current by using a workaround, and change the direction by applying a countercurrent to the current winding. Such a workaround can be created using grounding and applying a “zero” to the current winding instead of a “phase”. Grounding can be used from plumbing pipes or DH batteries, and best of all, if you have electrical wiring with a third grounding wire. In case we don’t want the counter disk to rotate, we feed in the socket from the “phase”, which in the counter now passes through the contacts 3-4 (jumper), and the “earth”, which generally goes past the counter. If we want to force the counter to spin back, we feed all the loads from the sockets, but we supply a current that is more consumed by the loads and in the opposite direction (in antiphase) to a single outlet between the "zero" and "ground". For this we use an autotransformer.

In the front door on the dashboard, find the appropriate device for your device (approx. "Device" - mechanism, device). We advise you to follow the following steps:


1) Find the device (SEE. FIG. 1) that disables your apartment. If this is difficult, turn on the tape recorder in the apartment and turn off the devices in turn. Silence - a sign that you have found your device. In the same way, find your machines, usually 2 pcs (or 3, if the house is with electric stoves).

2) Turn off your device. Phase indicator find the supply side. Discover the second type of device. Caution! Its parts easily fall out under the action of the spring, if you shift the axis of the lever. The first device has the danger of a short circuit between the terminal and the upper iron lid. Keep the phase indicator at an angle.

3) The wires from the opposite side of the lead, which are currently de-energized (check!), Are swapped.

4) Next to your machines or above them is a zero block. The wires going to your apartment are connected at one end to your machines and the other to this block. It has a jumper, and a wire comes up to it from below. Automatic machines also have a jumper and wire. Change these wires in places. To do this, you will need pliers, wire cutters, a sharp knife and round pliers to complete the ring at the end of the wire. The ring should be screwed along the diameter of the screw in the direction of the hour hand (so that when screwing the screw, it would tend to tighten rather than loosen).

5) Everything, turn on. Having now connected the zero in the socket with the grounding in it or with the battery, you will cool up your meter. To do this, you can make a special plug with a jumper between zero and grounding or wiring with a crocodile clip for connection to the battery. At the same time, take all measures to avoid plugging the plug in the opposite direction - sweep or better, break off one pin, and plug the phase hole in the socket. Technological socket (available in the kitchens of houses since 1979, with a triangular arrangement of flat pins) is much more convenient, since it initially prevents the wrong inclusion.

Do you have other types of devices? We'll have to open the terminal cover of the meter. Fortunately, they are almost never sealed, and no one pays attention to this (unlike the case of the meter itself), and you can undo the seal.
Unscrew the screws of the meter terminals so that the wires are free (no longer unscrew, the screws may fall out). Flip the wires 1 and 3, and 4 and 2. That is, the new order of wires: 3-4-1-2. Close the lid.

Additional Information
The seal installed on the lid is made of polyethylene, has a fragile structure and is easily removed / installed repeatedly and without visible signs of this. Remember, in what order the wire passes the screw, eye and seal. Unwind the twisted ends of the wire, and with a strong jerk with your hands, pull off the seal. Needle pierce the channels to pass the wire. After completing the work and installing the cover, pass the locking device through the screw and eyelet and put it in the seal. Twist the wire on the opposite side. Slightly flatten the seal with pliers, placing smooth pieces of metal under the jaws - this will preserve the impression. Is done.


Having done the steps described in item 1, we are ready to put the meter back and bill the energy supplier. You will need a transformer with a power of 150 ... 200 Watts with a voltage on the secondary winding of 3 ... 15 Volts, adjustable stepwise or smoothly at currents up to 10 A. Ideal for this is a regular LATR, which is even in a physics school office in any laboratory . A transformer from an old lamp TV set or a radio receiver with two powerful windings of 6.3 volts each and a winding of 1 volt may come from finished ones. Combining them this way and that, we get a set of different voltages. On the basis of such a transformer, it is possible to wind the self-made one, having lowered all the extra anode windings, and to wind the power circuit with a tap every 1 Volt and connect it to the switch. The transformer is connected to the socket according to the following scheme:

FIG. 2


By adjusting the output voltage, we set the current in the circuit consumed by the apartment. Hop! And the counter is spinning back. A roughly equal current stops it, and the shortage allows it to crawl quietly. In the case of a European or technological outlet, the device simply plugs into it. It can be arranged as a separate box with a cord with a plug or even embedded in an energy-glutinous device such as an electric stove or a fireplace, and even to combine its power regulators with a winding switch.

Above terminal 1, if you open the terminal cover, you can see the output of the voltage winding, which contacts the terminal through a screw located above the clamp. If the screw is loosened before the contact is terminated, the counter will stop. This is because the meter, having lost the voltage, will multiply the flowing current by zero, resulting in a power of O kW / h.
In general, to start the meter back (not covertly, as described above, but insolently), it is enough to throw the wires of the terminals l - 2 in places.


This technique was purchased from information merchants. The author was not indicated in the methodology.