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How to rewind the electric counter

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A typical Russian national meter has four terminals: 1-2-3-4. Between terminals 1 - 2, a current winding with low resistance and consisting of several turns of a thick copper wire is included.
The terminals 3-4 inside are closed to each other.
Between cl. 1 and 3-4 are the voltage windings. The windings feed the magnetic cores, the field of which drives the disk of the measuring mechanism into rotation. The power is accounted for by multiplying the instantaneous currents and voltages acting on the windings. In this case, instantaneous mutual flow direction in the windings is also important. If one of the windings changes it to the opposite, the direction of rotation of the disk will also change. Our task is to stop current in the current winding or change its direction to the opposite.
How can this be achieved?
To stop the passage of current, you can use the bypass path, and change the direction by letting countercurrent into the current winding. Such a workaround can be created using the grounding and feeding the current coil "zero" instead of "phase". Grounding can be used from water pipes or CO batteries, and best of all, if you have wiring with a third grounding wire. In case we do not want the disk of the counter to rotate, we eat in the socket from the "phase", which in the meter now passes through pins 3-4 (jumper), and "earth", which generally goes past the counter. If we want to make the counter spin back, we feed all the loads from the outlets, but we feed the current consumed by the loads to the same socket between the "zero" and the "ground" and in the opposite direction (in antiphase). For this we use the autotransformer.

In the front of the shield, find the appropriate device for your device (the "device" - the mechanism, the device). We advise you to follow the following steps:

FIG. 1

1) Find the device (SEE FIGURE 1), disconnecting your apartment. If this is difficult, turn on the recorder in the apartment and turn off the devices in turn. Silence is a sign that you have found your device. In the same way, find your machines, usually 2 pieces (or 3 if the house with electric stoves).

2) Turn off your device. Use the phase indicator to find the supply side. Open the second kind of device for this. Caution! Its parts easily fall out under the action of a spring, if you shift the axis of the lever. The first device has a danger of closing between the terminal and the upper iron cover. Hold the dipstick at an angle.

3) Wires from the side opposite the supply, which at the moment are de-energized (check!) We exchange places.

4) A zero block is located next to your machines or above them. Wires that go to your apartment, one end connected to your vending machines, and the other to this shoe. It has a jumper, and below it comes the wire. The machines also have a jumper and wire. Change these wires in places. To do this you will need pliers, pliers, a sharp knife and round pliers to make a ring on the end of the wire. The ring must be screwed in the direction of the screw in the clockwise direction (so that when the screw is screwed it tries to tighten, but not to open).

5) Everything, include. Having connected now zero in the socket with the grounding in it or with the battery, you cool your meter. To do this, you can make a special plug with a jumper between zero and ground or a wire with a crocodile clip for connecting to the battery. In doing so, take all measures to ensure that you do not stick the plug in reverse-mark or better, break off one pin, and plug the phased hole in the socket. The technological outlet (available in the kitchens of houses since 1979 built, with a triangular arrangement of flat pins) is much more convenient, since it initially prevents incorrect switching.

Do you have other types of devices? It is necessary to open the meter's terminal cover. Fortunately, they are almost nowhere sealed, and no one pays attention to this (unlike the body of the meter itself), and you can undoubtedly rip off the seal.
Unscrew the terminal screws of the meter so that the wires are free (no more twisting, the screws can fall out). Overwire wires 1 and 3, and 4 and 2. That is, the new wire order: 3-4-1-2. Close the cover.

Additional Information
The seal installed on the lid is made of polyethylene, has a fragile construction and is easily subjected to removal / installation repeatedly and without visible signs of it. Remember, in what order the wire passes the screw, eyelet and seal. Unscrew the twisted ends of the wire, and with a strong jerk hands pull the seal off. Using a needle, pierce the channels to pass the wire. After completing the work and installing the cover, pass the lock through the screw and eyelet and wind it in the seal. On the opposite side, twist the wire. Slightly flatten the seal with pliers, placing smooth pieces of metal under the sponge - this will preserve the impression. Done.


Having done what was described in item 1, we are ready to put the counter back and invoice the energy supplier. You will need a 150 ... 200 Watt transformer with a voltage on the secondary winding 3 ... 15 V, adjustable stepwise or smoothly at a current of up to 10 A. Ideal for this is a conventional LATR, which is even in the school physics room in any laboratory . From the ready-made transformer can come from an old tube TV or radio with two powerful windings of 6.3 volts, and a winding of 1 volt. By connecting them like that, we get a set of different voltages. It is possible to rewind and homemade on the basis of such a transformer, having lowered all the extra anode windings, and to wind the power windings with a tap every 1 volt and connect it to the switch. The connection of the transformer to the outlet is made according to the following scheme:

FIG. 2


By adjusting the output voltage, we set the current in the circuit larger than the one consumed by the apartment. Hop! And the counter turns back. Approximately equal current stops it, and shortage allows you to crawl quietly. In the case of an euro- or technological outlet, the device simply sticks into it. It can be designed as a separate box with a cord with a plug or even integrated into an energy-hungry appliance such as an electric stove or fireplace and even combine power regulators with a winding switch.

Above terminal 1, if you open the terminal cover, you see a voltage winding output that contacts the terminal through a screw located above the clamping. If the screw is loosened until the contact is terminated, the counter will stop. This is because the meter, losing voltage, will multiply the flowing current by zero, resulting in a power of O kW / h.
In general, to start the counter back (not secretly, as described above, but impudent), it is enough to swap the wires of terminals l-2.


This technique was purchased from information merchants. The author was not indicated in the methodology.