How to rewind the electric counter

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FREE ELECTRICITY.
REMOTE STOP COUNTER

A typical Russian national meter has four terminals: 1-2-3-4. Between terminals 1 - 2, a current winding with low resistance and consisting of several turns of a thick copper wire is included.
The terminals 3-4 inside are closed to each other.
Between cl. 1 and 3-4 are the voltage winding. The windings feed the magnetic cores, the field of which drives the disk of the measuring mechanism into rotation. The power is accounted for by multiplying the instantaneous currents and voltages acting on the windings. In this case, instantaneous mutual flow direction in the windings is also important. If one of the windings changes it to the opposite, the direction of rotation of the disc will also change. Our task is to stop the current in the current winding or change its direction to the opposite.
How can this be achieved?
To stop the passage of current, you can use the bypass path, and change the direction by letting countercurrent into the current winding. Such a workaround can be created using the grounding and feeding the current coil "zero" instead of "phase". Grounding can be used from water pipes or CO batteries, and best if you have wiring with a third grounding wire. In case we do not want the disk of the counter to rotate, we eat in the socket from the "phase", which now passes through the contacts 3-4 (jumper) in the meter, and "earth", which generally goes past the counter. If we want to make the counter spin back, we feed all loads from the sockets, but we feed the current consumed by the loads to one outlet between zero and ground, and in the opposite direction (in antiphase). For this we use the autotransformer.
STOP COUNTER:

In the front of the shield, find the appropriate device for your device (see "device" - device, device). We advise you to follow the following steps:

FIG. 1

1) Find the device (SEE FIGURE 1), disconnecting your apartment. If this is difficult, turn on the recorder in the apartment and turn off the devices in turn. Silence is a sign that you have found your device. In the same way, find your machines, usually 2 pieces (or 3 if the house is with electric stoves).

2) Turn off your device. Use the phase indicator to find the supply side. Open the second kind of device for this. Caution! Its parts easily fall out under the action of the spring, if you shift the axis of the lever. The first device has a danger of closing between the terminal and the upper iron cover. Hold the dipstick at an angle.


3) Wires from the side opposite the supply, which at the moment are de-energized (check!) We swap places.

4) A zero block is located next to your machines or above them. Wires that go to your apartment, one end connected to your vending machines, and the other to this shoe. It has a jumper, and below it comes the wire. The machines also have a jumper and wire. Change these wires in places. To do this you will need pliers, pliers, sharp knife and round nose pliers to make a ring on the end of the wire. The ring must be screwed in the direction of the screw in the clockwise direction (so that when the screw is screwed, it tries to tighten, but not to expand).

5) Everything, include. Having connected now zero in the socket with grounding in it or with the battery, you fine stop the counter. To do this, you can make a special plug with a jumper between zero and ground or a wire with a crocodile clip for connecting to the battery. At the same time, take all measures not to stick the plug in reverse-mark or better, break off one pin, and plug the phased hole in the socket. Technological outlet (available in the kitchens of houses since 1979 built, with a triangular arrangement of flat pins) is much more convenient, since it initially prevents incorrect switching.

Do you have other types of devices? It is necessary to open the meter's terminal cover. Fortunately, they are almost nowhere sealed, and no one pays attention to this (unlike the body of the meter itself), and you can undoubtedly rip off the seal.
Unscrew the terminal screws of the meter so that the wires are free (no more twisting, the screws can fall out). Overwire wires 1 and 3, and 4 and 2. That is, the new wire order is 3-4-1-2. Close the cover.

Additional Information
The seal installed on the lid is made of polyethylene, has a fragile construction and is easily subjected to removal / installation repeatedly and without visible signs of it. Remember, in what order the wire passes the screw, eyelet and seal. Unscrew the twisted ends of the wire, and with a strong jerk hands pull the seal off. With a needle, puncture the channels to pass the wire. After completing the work and installing the lid, pass the lock through the screw and eye and wind it in the seal. On the opposite side, twist the wire. Slightly flatten the seal with pliers, placing smooth pieces of metal under the lips - this will preserve the impression. Done.

COURSE TRACK:

Having done what was described in item 1, we are ready to put the counter back and invoice the energy supplier. You will need a transformer with a power of 150 ... 200 watts with a voltage on the secondary winding 3 ... 15 volts, adjustable stepwise or smoothly at a current of up to 10 A. Ideal for this is a conventional LATR, which is even in the school physics room in any laboratory . From the ready-made transformer can come from an old tube TV or radio with two powerful windings at 6.3 Volts, and a winding of 1 volt. Connecting them like that, we get a set of different voltages. It is possible to rewind and homemade on the basis of such a transformer, having lowered all the extra anode windings, and the power windings with a tap each 1 volt and connect to the switch. Connecting the transformer to the outlet is done according to the following scheme:


FIG. 2

STOP COUNTER:

By adjusting the output voltage, we set the current in the circuit larger than the one consumed by the apartment. Hop! And the counter turns back. Approximately equal current stops it, and shortage allows you to crawl quietly. In the case of an euro- or technological outlet, the device simply sticks into it. It can be designed as a separate box with a cord with a plug or even integrated into an energy-hungry appliance such as an electric stove or fireplace and even combine power regulators with a winding switch.

Above terminal 1, if you open the terminal cover, you can see the output of the voltage winding that contacts the terminal through the screw above the clamping. If the screw is loosened until the contact is terminated, the counter will stop. This is because the meter, losing voltage, will multiply the flowing current by zero, resulting in a power of O kW / h.
In general, to start the counter back (not secretly, as described above, but impudent), it is enough to throw the wires of the terminals l - 2 in places.

NOTE FROM THE SITE AUTHOR:

This technique was purchased from information merchants. The author was not indicated in the methodology.