Primer. In order for the paint to stick well to the surface, so that it does not recline with the nail, the surface must be prepared accordingly. In addition to sandpaper and degreasing, naturally, it is advisable to use a primer layer. For example, an ordinary glyptal GF on 646 solvents works well: Among imports, you can also choose many options. Needless to say, that for different surfaces there are primers, the path of trial and error will help you to choose the right option.

Solvent. By the rate of evaporation, "light" and "heavy" solvents are distinguished. Lungs - ether-containing, evaporating almost instantly, heavy solvents contain benzene, toluene, xyluene and oily ingredients, which dry out significantly longer. Why these or other solvents are used, I will not write now - this is the topic of a separate article .., and it is not important for beginners. At first we will manage the main - 646 and 647 brands of solvents. Acetone should always be.

Airbrush. As noted above, they are now available to a great variety: from 20-dollar spittoons to devices of unearthly quality, worth 200-400 bucks ..

There are two main types of airbrushes - with a dependent and independent paint supply mechanism. The difference between these models of airbrushes in principle, the work, the dependent functions as follows - under the pressure of air, the paint comes from the tank to the nozzle directly, where it is sprayed with a jet of air. It's simple ... more air - more paint. It is on this principle that the nozzle works on the vacuum cleaner for whitewashing the ceiling.

With an 'independent' design, things are more complicated. With the help of the button, we regulate not only the air supply, but also the supply of paint to the nozzle - 'independently' from each other, which allows the thickness of the dye to be of the same thickness. Beginners can be advised airbrush 'double dependent action', where there is both an air valve and a valve for paint. When you press the button, air is first applied, then the paint .., the well-coordinated work of this mechanism allows you to get a high-quality spray and avoid annoying blunders: but it does not have as wide possibilities as an independent system.

Compressor. This device, which supplies compressed air, our airbrush. There are several types of compressors, the most common - piston and membrane. Both are suitable, many companies produce this miracle of technology. The cheapest Chinese costs slightly more than 100 bucks. Such compressor compresses so that it is problematic to include it in the apartment, and it's a pity in the garage. The quality is low, quickly overheating: the resource is ridiculous, it is possible to kill such a compressor for a week, enough fence to paint on the dacha Therefore, for an airbrush, often get something more suitable.

There are special compressors for the airbrush. The price ranges from 300-500 bucks.

A cheaper option is produced in Russia from a compressor from a refrigerator. A modern air purification system is visible-an automotive oil filter.

It is cheap, quiet and efficient. The resource is almost infinite, in refrigerators such motors for 20 years work. The self-made airbrush compressors are also doing the same for the airbrush .. most of them work on self-made compressors, as far as I know: A small update is a pressure switch, a receiver and a pressure regulator with a manometer, and this self-made will make its big-name competitors.

Airbrush washing. Most problems with the airbrush due to improper care, careless cleaning or sloppy disassembly. First of all, thoroughly study the instructions. Disassemble the airbrush should always be made clean, not on a table littered with paint bottles and other junk. Wipe the parts only with a soft swab, rinse without regretting the solvent. Never leave an airbrush with paint. When switching from white to black paint, it is enough (dust) a little solvent, if on the contrary - it is necessary to disassemble and wipe. Some pigment paints are very poorly washed, for example, red or silver: It is unnecessary to say that the use of metal objects for cleaning is unacceptable. Even to death, I do not recommend picking up a drop of dye with anything. Soak in a solvent and gain patience ..

Equipment for airbrushing. Bubbles, pipettes, syringes, a glass stirring stick, old spoons, tampons, a roll of toilet paper, etc., etc.

Other "tips" that can come in handy if you take an airbrush for the first time.
- Always keep the airbrush perpendicular to the surface to be painted, this is the optimal mode. Otherwise, different kinds of jambs, such as sand, can not be avoided
- All movements should be smooth and smooth, without jerks and sudden movements of the hand.
- The only remedy for the spurts is movement. The airbrush should always be on the move! Before working, take the device in your hand, wind two turns of hose on your arm, for convenience, and WITHOUT paint (but with air) go through, rehearse movements. Ideally - all paint in one pass and ONE layer. Do not be lazy, do the workout several times - it's much easier than everything to wash off and remake anew.
- Put the next paint should be only after the previous layer dries. Corrections also apply, do not try to fix a jamb causing more paint - the shims are guaranteed ... If this happens, we quickly roll with a special roller, pre-moistened in a solvent. If there is no such cushion, we correct the stain only after the paint has completely dried. Sometimes it's much easier than it seems ..
- We start drawing from the lightest part, it's almost impossible to paint the dark paint with light. Different poisonous colors, such as red, paint at all is not realistic, maybe even a day later ..
- A number of difficulties arise when working with light paint on a dark background, it is problematic to get a 'juicy' color: In this case, you have to make a substrate of white paint: Oh, yes, that's just not necessary, what tricks do not have to do: stencils pasted on soap, foam For shaving, paint tape and even honey, which is then washed off with water.