Increase the power and dynamism of the automobile engine (Ozonizer)
Ozonizer for ICE
Since the purchase of the new VAZ - 2107, I was constantly at a loss, the stupid dynamics of the car was killing me. There was a short time when she was quick and obedient. With a sharp push of the gas pedal to the floor, she grasped instantly, on the 4th gear from 40 km / h uphill picked up speed to the envy of other owners of the classics. But then strange things began to happen. The dynamics gradually fell. When trying to pull the base detonation began to appear, at what change the POP did not give results. It got to the point that the muffler shot, but the detonation was constantly present when the accelerator pedal was pressed for more than 2/3 of the turn. In this case, the engine roared like an airplane, but there was no satisfactory acceleration. I applied to many service centers of the city, through acquaintances, on the advice of other car owners. The situation has not changed. Someone poured the blame on the installed Octane-4, someone on the constricted valve, someone on the quality of gasoline and a carburetor with candles, etc. I threw a hefty sum to check all the alleged causes, it was all wrong. However, I was not the only one who was unhappy. During my ordeal, I talked to a lot of classic owners, at whose disposal there were cars from novya to the pennies of the 70s. And not only the classics had this problem. In front-wheel carburetor VAZ stupidity is also common. It was possible to throw this splinter, considering the defect of the domestic auto industry, but the desire to rectify the situation did not give rest.
The search for the cause in the technical literature proved to be unsuccessful. I was browsing articles on the Internet for ordinary motorists and somehow stumbled upon a glow plug. His obvious signs were on his face. Constant detonation, when the ignition was turned off without the carburetor electrovalve triggered, the engine shook for another couple of seconds. A car with a cold engine went much better. In winter, in a frost -30, good agility appeared. I poured into the Aspect Modifier tank to clean the combustion chambers and the entire fuel system — a miracle happened. The engine began to work very quietly, even at high revs. There was a decent accelerating traction, pleasantly pressed into the chair. Acceleration to 100 km / h (on the speedometer) 11.7 seconds using 3 gears. By car stands BSZ Octane-4, Solex-21073 with a fuel nozzle of the first chamber 110, the second is not touched. The rest is staffed. Happiness was short-lived. He worked out a tank with an additive, and after a run of 500 km, the past flaws reappeared. Behind the wheel did not even have the desire to sit down.
Once I noticed an interesting thing - the car was always driving briskly after the rain. After the storm there was even better. Yes, and most easier to breathe. During a thunderstorm or rain, the surface atmosphere is saturated with negative ions. It was with this that my research began on the "breathing" of the engine, in the truest sense of the word. From scrap materials, I collected an air ionizer and installed it in front of the air filter. My guesses were confirmed - after 20km of run with the ionizer, I began to feel improvements. And after 300 km the car acquired qualities that I had never seen in it. It was easy to get under way from the 2nd gear, the movement at 30 km / h for the 4th gear was not difficult. Need to speed up? You are welcome! The car immediately obediently and confidently gained momentum without failures, twitching and detonation. Many people know this feature of the classics, the car has the best dynamics in the range of 3000-3500 r / min. Although the maximum power develops at 5600 rpm, rarely anyone spins up above 4000. The thrust disappears noticeably as the engine speed approaches the maximum mark. With the ionizer, the dynamics are uniform at all revolutions, on the 1st and 2nd gear with a sneaker on the floor, the maximum speed is gained instantly, manage to switch. I can safely say the reason for the dullness of the car at high engine speeds is mostly soot. Even the majority have such a moment - when driving at a speed of 2000-2500, pressing the gas all the way, for some time the car does not react at all. It is not even a failure, just a zero reaction. Only after a couple of seconds, acceleration gradually begins. But during this time, the moment is lost, the overtaking is broken. I can confidently say, not in the carburetor and ignition case. In Nagara! Even a light brownish carbon can provoke an abnormal burning of fuel. Moreover, in different weather conditions, the burning rate of the fuel mixture has a wide range. If, after a thunderstorm, the car goes with ease and when you push the gas pedal to the floor you may not even observe detonation, then in a fog or before a thunderstorm a plow is attached to an iron horse. The car refuses to go, there is a strong engine braking, detonation, the engine roars, and there are no dynamics. In this weather, there is an active accumulation of soot in the combustion chambers. Many will express the opinion that the blame for all the humidity. However, recall the recent past when many craftsmen tried to introduce devices to add water to the fuel mixture to reduce fuel consumption and CO emissions. Nagar was absent, CO almost disappeared and the motor worked merrily. Therefore, the burning process is not affected by water, but by the presence of negative ions in the surrounding air. When you are near a waterfall in a mist of falling water, you feel the freshness and ease of breathing, despite the high humidity from which the clothes become damp. Here it is the difference in the properties of high humidity - with ordinary fog and near the waterfall.
The electric circuit of the ionizer is shown in Figure 1. The use of a field-effect transistor allows us to simplify the circuit as much as possible. From my own experience I will say that they are not afraid of static electricity, you can safely work as with ordinary ones. High-voltage capacitors in the multiplier is better to use the type indicated, large capacity with small dimensions and it is convenient to work with them. They are full in the teletele and radio market.
- R1 is 47k, R2 is 75k, R3 is 1.5k, R4 is 2k;
- C1 - 10nF, C2 - 47µF x 25V, C3 - 500µF x 25V;
- DD1 - K561LN2;
- VT1 - IRL3803, IRF3205, IRFP064, IRFP2907;
- VD1.2 - KD103A, KD521A;
- T1 - TVS110P2;
- FU1 - 2A;
The multiplier - capacitors 2200pF x 10000V type K73-13, diodes KTS106G.
The findings of the DD1 chip from left to right: 13,12,1,2,3,4.
Conclusion with KREN5A on the 7th conclusion DD1.
Step-up transformer lineman from BW TV, you will find there. Remove all primary windings and wind 9 turns with the same wire from the remote windings. It is better to pre-wind a few turns of tape. For powering the microcircuit, you can use the 9.0 KPEN, but it is very hot. Transistor must be installed on the radiator at least 5x5 cm with cooling fins. You understand, not home conditions under the hood. Voltage multiplier assemble mounted mounting, you can glue the capacitors between each other, and then solder the diodes. Be sure to fill the epoxy compound in a suitable form. In extreme cases, buy a compound from Anles Epoxy Classic, this is an epoxy with putty properties. Treat it with a thick layer all the leads of the capacitors and diodes. The circuit is located in one case. I have a multiplier located at 4 cm from the transistor radiator, no problem. Connect the case of the line transformer to the ground; electrostatic electricity accumulates on it, which periodically pierces the primary winding through the gasket. Problems certainly does not happen, but it is better to be safe. And be sure, after assembling the circuit, test it at idle without a tube. In this case, the voltage on the multiplier will be about 60000V. In the dark, the multiplier case should not glow. Then it will grow into a breakdown. The given circuit is weak for the tube and when connected, its voltage will not rise above 30000-35000V. Instead of a homemade multiplier, you can apply the multiplier from the TV UN-9/27. There is a plus plus. It would seem no difference. But an engine with a different multiplier polarity changes its character. If a multiplier with a negative terminal, the engine is more flexible in operation, excellent downstream and downhill traction, the ignition angle will increase by 1-3 degrees. If you use a TV-ready one, then a poor ground draft with detonation (but better than no ionizer at all), horse riding is excellent, the CPP, on the contrary, will have to be reduced by a couple of degrees, the engine is noisy. And another drawback - the tube is an electrostatic precipitator that retains the smallest dust that accumulates on the inner wall. Gradually, it becomes an electrical insulator and the effect decreases. We'll have to wipe the walls every 300 km. Figure 2 is a diagram of the inclusion of industrial UN9 / 27. To increase the voltage and effect, you can add a homemade multiplier as shown, you can without it. Do not use megaohm resistors on the high voltage output from the multiplier as is done for safety in home ionizers. In the tube there will be a strong voltage drop and loss of effect, it is better to take care of the insulation.
In the case where the components of the circuit are located, make a hole for high voltage output. I used contact with the cover of the distributor which is glued into the case with epoxy. The wire from the multiplier is easily soldered to the contact and the high-voltage ignition wire is connected as standard. He will be alone. In my version, I made two leads without grounding on the vehicle's mass. In any case, it works well and there is no difference. Setting up the circuit is to install a resistor R1 current consumption of 0.6-0.8A. Greater current does not give results.
Sketch of the tube is shown in Figure 3. The tube is made of deodorant body, all have practically standard diameter of 52mm. Tube length 7-9cm. It must be enclosed in a suitable case so that the distance to the case is 5-7 mm. You can glue the PCB body. Cut a partition from PCB or plastic according to the diameter of the tube and the internal size of the body, put it on the tube, coat the joints with fast glue (I used poxypol), insert it into the body, coat it again and fill the cavity with epoxy compound. It is indicated in yellow. First, on the one hand, after hardening the glue on the other. To the brim of the tube. Then cut two strips 3mm wide and make a thin hole in the center. Stick on the edges of the tube so that the hole is clearly in the center of the tube. The body of the tube will sit on the bottom of the winter-summer switch instead of the warm air pipe. It is necessary to cut another detail like a plank with a round hole, or cut it in the finished case for docking with the switch. Also in the body of the ionizer tube, make a hole for gluing contact with the distributor cover. If a multiplier with a negative potential, then the contact is connected to the central wire in the tube, and the body of the tube to ground. If the output is plus, then the contact on the body of the tube, and the central core on the mass. You can make two contacts as in the picture, but it is more expensive, but there is no difference. The role of the central wire in the ionizer performs the hair from the cable. The thinner the better. Fastened with electrical clips on the straps in tight. The negative wire is inserted into the same clamp. The edges of the tube must be coated with epoxy to avoid corona discharge. In general, all high-voltage parts must be well processed (except for the inner surface of the tube and the central wire), the wires should be as short as possible. The air enters the tube from below, ionizes and follows further through the winter-summer switch. The body of the ionizer from the bottom must be made 3-4 cm longer than the tube for safety. A good option is with a round plastic case of the ionizer, so that it can be inserted instead of the winter-summer switch. First, you can not make the tube, but find a suitable case, fill it with metal sponges for washing dishes and connect the minus output of the multiplier to this grid. The voltage immediately jumps to 50000V. In this embodiment, it is necessary to solder the resistor at the output of the multiplier at 20-30M. Maybe you will like it and do not have to make a tube. The tube is a powerful ionizer and with a voltage in the tube of about 45-50 kV, an additional effect is created. At high engine speeds, the air moves at high speed through the tube, with a potential of more than 40 kW, all incoming air has time to ionize. Ionized air does not encounter resistance in the entire path to the combustion chambers, which means that the higher the revolutions, the more pressure occurs and a boost effect appears. Acceleration at the 1st and 2nd speeds to the maximum speed is almost instant. The engine buzzes pleasantly without a hysterical roar.
Of course, periodically the effect will be lost, the tube becomes clogged with dust and it is necessary to clean the inner walls. From my own experience I had to do 600-700km every time. Admittedly tired and I want to try the version with metal sponges.
And a few more words on the design. Unfortunately, the above scheme is weak for maximum tube effect. You can use any voltage boosting circuit. I want to try it with an ignition coil and a frequency of 200-300 Hz. The effect begins to disappear when the frequency converter voltage is above 7-10 kHz. The first few minutes during the operation of the converter at high frequencies there are no complaints, but then gradually the ionization is disturbed. The higher the frequency, the faster this moment comes. The output voltage of the step-up transformer is also affected. The higher it is, the lower the frequency of the converter should be. High frequency high voltage is not polarized by diodes. I have been thinking about this question for a long time, why is it not working? Plus in place, minus is also present. But why does the tube carry stale and warm-smelling air from which the head starts to ache? And while the ionizer does not have any effect. He even tried to do as in the Chizhevsky chandelier one negative electrode, but he also radiated a nasty stench. Everything was revealed by chance - I connected two high-voltage diodes in series, but with opposite leads. No voltage should be present from the output. But having brought a screwdriver, I saw an arc. High frequency alternating current and voltage diodes are not a barrier. For a good result, 0.4A is enough at onboard voltage, frequency converter 800-3000 Hz and 25000 V on the tube electrodes. Fresh frosty ozone smell from a working tube is a sign of proper operation of the ionizer. Conversely, a warm, stale and unpleasant breeze is a sign of trouble. This can be broken by a power transistor, a high frequency transducer is set, or a multiplier fault.
There is more work to do in this direction. You can find a more efficient emitter of negative ions. Electrical circuit precisely needs some work. Itching, but no time. I would appreciate your help.
Additions to the observations:
- 1. R1 resistor in the circuit is better to put a trimmer type SP-5. In my circuit at every pothole, he constantly changed the resistance and changed the current consumption of the ionizer. The effect of the tube also changed, constantly had to adjust the CPP. He sinned on the dirt in the tube, but it turns out that it does not noticeably affect the operation of the ionizer. Therefore, the tube can not be cleaned. After assembly, check by tapping on the instrument, the current should not change.
- 2. The current can be set to 1.3-1.5 A, the effect is. In general, a change in the current consumption of a few tenths of a significant effect on the effect. Especially at high speeds.
- 3. At initial installation of the ionizer, the CPP will go in a positive direction due to the removal of carbon from the combustion chambers (the detonation disappears). However, if it is disabled, the CPP may increase even more, but by a couple of hundred km. Then the car becomes sluggish again with the engine working hard, the dynamics falling to the previous figures. After a significant mileage with an ionizer when it is turned off, there is a significant drop in power.
- 4. The engine with the ionizer warms up faster, but it also gets hotter in traffic jams. It affects the elevated temperature of the mixture. However, any deterioration, burnout valves, flashing is not noticed. Over 25,000 km with an ionizer, only positive indicators are observed. The fuel mixture burns faster, which indicates the appearance of detonation after turning on the ionizer, it is necessary to reduce the CPP by 1-3 degrees. But if you do not use an ionizer, then the POPs will still have to be reduced by several degrees. due to the formation of soot. At the same time, the machine grows dull, fuel consumption increases.
- 5. The tube produces a meager amount of ozone, it absolutely does not affect the details of the entire path from the inlet to the outlet. You can read the link about the ozone roof below. In this embodiment, the car worked almost on one ozone, but as can be seen from the author’s observations, there was no deterioration.
- 6. I did not find emitters more efficiently than a tube. It is compact, at voltages above 40000 Volts, it maximally ionizes the high-speed air pressure at maximum engine speed. The difference is significant when the ionizer is turned off and on.
- 7. Measure the voltage in the tube simply - with a long screwdriver with a well-insulated handle, touch the central electrode (wire) and bring its tip to the tube walls. As soon as sparks begin to slip, measure the breakdown distance. 1mm is 3000 volts. If the breakdown is 12 mm, then the voltage is correspondingly 36,000 volts. But since the given circuit is weak, and the current in the tube is sure to increase with this measurement, in fact, the voltage will be higher than during the measurement. Perhaps at 3000-5000 volts.
- 8. The scheme has proven itself well, although it is simple and far from ideal. Very high quality specified field effect transistors. After idle in traffic jams, it was not possible to touch the transistor radiator with a hand, it was red-hot. But the scheme worked without complaints. The company guarantees the operation of transistors to a heating temperature of 170 degrees. It looks like the truth. At least, our transistors in such conditions "ordered to live long." At first I was afraid of the ionizer, you never know what will happen under the hood or even with the machine. There are still two decent fire extinguishers under the chair. But the fears were in vain. The ionizer was tested annually by heat, frost and diving in deep puddles. So conscientiously made the device does not deliver troubles.