Increase the power and dynamism of an automobile engine (Ozonator)
Ozonator for internal combustion engines
Since the purchase of the new VAZ-2107, I was constantly at a loss, the dull dynamics of the car was killing me. There was a short time when she was frisky and obedient. With the sudden depressing of the gas pedal to the floor, she seized instantly, in the 4th gear from 40 km / h uphill gained speed to envy the other classics owners. But then strange things began to happen. The dynamics gradually fell. When trying to pull from the bottom, detonation began to appear, and the change in the UOZ did not yield any results. It came to that shot at the silencer, but the detonation was present constantly with the accelerator pedal depressed more than 2/3 turn. The engine roared like an airplane, but there was no satisfactory acceleration. I applied to many car-care centers of the city, by acquaintance, on the advice of other car owners. The situation has not changed. Someone was pouring blame on the installed Octane-4, someone on the overturned valves, someone on the quality of gasoline and a carburetor with candles, etc. I threw out a fair amount to check all the alleged reasons, it was all wrong. However, I was not the only one who was unhappy. During my troubles, I talked to a lot of the owners of the classics, at whose disposal there were cars from novya from a needle to a kopeck in the 70s. And not only did the classics have this problem. In front-drive carburetor VAZ, dullness is also common. It was possible to throw this splinter, considering it as a failure of the domestic car industry, but the desire to improve the situation did not give rest.
The search for a cause in the technical literature turned out to be fruitless. I looked through the Internet articles of ordinary motorists and somehow came across a glow ignition. His obvious signs were on his face. Constant detonation, when the ignition is switched off without the carburettor's solenoid valve operating, the engine has been shaking for a couple of seconds. The car with the unheated engine went much better. In winter, in the cold -30, there was a good speed. I poured into the tank "Aspect-Modifier" for cleaning the combustion chambers and the entire fuel system - a miracle happened. The engine began to work very quietly, even at high revs. There was a decent acceleration thrust, in the armchair pleasantly pressed. Acceleration to 100 km / h (on the speedometer) 11.7 seconds using 3 gears. By car there is a BSZ Octane-4, a sollex-21073 with a fuel jet of the first chamber 110, the second is untouched. The rest is staffed. Happiness was short-lived. I developed a tank with an additive, and after a run of 500 km there was once more lethargy. Behind the wheel did not even have the desire to sit down.
Once I noticed an interesting thing - the car always drove fast after the rain. After the storm, things went better. Yes, and most breathe easier. During a thunderstorm or rain, the surface atmosphere is saturated with negative ions. That's where my research began on the "breathing" of the engine, in the literal sense of the word. From improvised materials, I assembled an air ionizer and installed it in front of the air filter. My guesswork was confirmed - after 20 km of run with the ionizer I began to feel improvements. And after 300 km the car got qualities I never watched in it. It was easy to get off the 2nd gear, the movement at 30 km / h for the 4th gear was not difficult. Need to accelerate? You are welcome! The machine immediately obediently and confidently gained momentum without failures, twitching and detonation. Many know this feature of the classics, the machine has better dynamics in the range of 3000-3500 rpm. Although the maximum power develops at 5600 rpm, rarely anyone spins above 4000. The traction noticeably disappears with the approach of engine speed to the maximum mark. With the ionizer, the dynamics are uniform at all revolutions, on the 1st and 2nd gear with the tap in the floor, the maximum speed is dialed instantly, manage to switch. I can safely say that the reason for the dullness of the machine at high engine speeds is mostly the build-up. Even the majority has such a moment - when driving on the revolutions of 2000-2500, pressing the gas to the stop, the car does not react for some time. It's not even a failure, just a zero reaction. Only after a couple of seconds, the overclocking starts. But during this time the moment is lost, the overtaking is ripped off. I can say with certainty, not in the carburetor and ignition matter. In the silt! Even a light brownish deposit can provoke abnormal burning of fuel. And in different weather conditions, the combustion rate of the fuel mixture has a wide range. If after a thunderstorm the car goes with ease and when the gas pedal is drowned in the floor, you can not even observe the detonation, then, as if plowing to the iron horse, into a fog or before a thunderstorm. The car refuses to go, there is a strong braking engine, detonation, the engine roars, and there is no speaker. In such weather, there is an active accumulation of carbon in the combustion chambers. Many people will say that the moisture is the fault. However, recall the recent past when many craftsmen tried to introduce devices for adding water to the fuel mixture in order to reduce fuel consumption and CO emissions. Nagar was absent, the CO practically disappeared and the motor worked fun. Therefore, the combustion process is affected not by water, but by the presence of negative ions in the surrounding air. Being near the waterfall in the fog from the falling water, you feel the freshness and lightness of breathing, despite the high humidity from which the clothes become damp. Here it is the difference in the properties of high humidity - with the usual fog and next to the waterfall.
The electrical scheme of the ionizer is shown in Figure 1. The use of a field-effect transistor makes it possible to simplify the circuit as much as possible. In my experience I will say that they are not afraid of static electricity, you can safely work as usual. High-voltage capacitors in the multiplier is better to use this type of what is indicated, a large capacity with small dimensions and it is convenient to work with them. They are full in the tele-store and on the radio market.
- R1 - 47k, R2 - 75k, R3 - 1.5k, R4 - 2k;
- C1 - 10nF, C2 - 47μF × 25V, C3 - 500μF × 25V;
- DD1 - K561LH2;
- VT1 - IRL3803, IRF3205, IRFP064, IRFP2907;
- VD1,2 - KD103A, KD521A;
- Т1 - ТВС110П2;
The multiplier - capacitors 2200pF x 10000V type K73-13, diodes KC106G.
The conclusions of the DD1 chip from left to right: 13,12,1,2,3,4.
Output from KREN5A to the 7th output of DD1.
The step-up transformer is the stitch from the CB of the TV, you will find it there. Remove all primary windings and wind 9 turns with the same wire from the remote windings. It is better to prewind several turns of electrical tape. To power the chip, you can use the KRENKA at 9V, but it gets very hot. The transistor must be installed on the radiator at least 5 x 5 cm with cooling fins. You understand, not the home conditions under the hood. The voltage multiplier is assembled by mounted mounting, it is possible to fix the capacitors together with glue, and then solder the diodes. Be sure to fill with epoxy compound in a suitable form. In extreme cases, buy the compound of the company Anles "Epoxy Classic", it's an epoxy with the properties of putty. Process it with a thick layer of all the terminals of capacitors and diodes. The circuit is located in one housing. At me the multiplier is located in 4 sm from a radiator of a transistor, there are no problems. The case of a line transformer is connected to the mass, electrostatic electricity is accumulated on it, which periodically breaks into the primary winding through the gasket. The problem does not occur, of course, but it's better to be safe. And be sure, after assembling the circuit, test it for idle without a tube. The voltage on the multiplier will be on the order of 60000V. In the dark, the body of the multiplier should not glow. Then it will outgrow the breakdown. The above circuit is weak for the tube and when connected its voltage will not rise above 30000-35000V. Instead of a homemade multiplier, you can apply a multiplier from the TV UN-9/27. There is a plus conclusion. It would seem no difference. But the engine with a different polarity of the multiplier changes its character. If the multiplier has a negative terminal, then the motor is more elastic in operation, an excellent lower and upper thrust, the angle of ignition will increase by 1-3 degrees. If you use the ready-made from the TV, then a poor low-level thrust with detonation (but better than without an ionizer at all), the horse is excellent, the UOZ on the contrary will have to be reduced by a couple of degrees, the engine runs noisily. And another drawback - the tube is an electrostatic precipitator, delays the smallest dust that settles on the inner wall. Gradually it becomes an electrical insulator and the effect decreases. Have to wipe the walls every 300 km. In Figure 2, the scheme for the inclusion of industrial UN9 / 27. To increase the voltage and effect, you can add a self-made multiplier as shown, you can without it. Do not use mega-ohm resistors on the high voltage output from the multiplier as is done for safety in home ionizers. In the tube there will be a strong voltage drop and loss of effect, it is better to take care of isolation.
In the housing where the circuit components are located, make a hole for high voltage output. I used the contact from the cap of the toggle sticker which is pasted into the epoxy body. To the terminal, the wire from the multiplier is easily soldered and a high-voltage ignition wire is connected as standard. He will be alone. In my version, I made two leads without grounding the weight of the car. In any case it works well and there is no difference. The configuration of the circuit is to set the current resistor R1 to 0.6-0.8A. A larger current does not produce results.
The sketch of the tube is shown in Figure 3. The tube is made of a deodorant body, all have a standard diameter of 52 mm. The length of the tube is 7-9 cm. It must be enclosed in a suitable housing so that the distance to the housing is 5-7 mm. You can glue the body of textolite. Cut a septum of textolite or plastic by the diameter of the tube and the inside dimension of the body, put it on the tube, grease the joints with a quick glue (I used a poxypol), insert it into the case, cover it again and fill the cavity with an epoxy compound. It is indicated in yellow. First, on the one hand, after the glue hardens on the other. To the edges of the tube. Then cut two slats 3 mm wide and make a thin hole in the center. Paste on the edges of the tube so that the hole is clearly in the center of the tube. The tube body will be mounted on the winter-summer switch from below instead of the warm air connection. It is necessary to cut out one more detail like a bar with a round hole or cut in a finished case for docking with a switch. Also in the body of the ionizer tube make a hole for pasting the contact from the cover of the trambler. If the multiplier has a negative potential, then the contact is connected to the central wire in the tube, and the tube body to the mass. If the conclusion is positive, then contact the tube body, and the central vein on the mass. You can make two contacts as in the picture, but it's more expensive, but there's no difference. The role of the central wire in the ionizer is performed by the hair from the cable. The thinner, the better. It is fastened by electrical clamps on the straps in a tight manner. A negative wire is inserted into the same terminal. The edges of the tube must be coated with epoxy to avoid corona discharge. In general, all high-voltage parts must be well processed (except the inner surface of the tube and the central wire), the wires should be as short as possible. Air enters the tube from the bottom, ionizes and follows further through the switch winter-summer. The body of the ionizer from below should be made 3-4 cm longer than the tube for safety. A good option is the round plastic housing of the ionizer, so that it can be inserted in place of the winter-summer switch. First you can not make a tube, and find a suitable case, fill it with metal sponges for dishwashing and connect to this grid the minus terminal of the multiplier. The voltage immediately jumps to 50000V. In this version, it is necessary to solder at the output of the multiplier a resistor at 20-30MΩ. Maybe you will like it and do not have to make a tube. The tube is a powerful ionizer and when the voltage in the tube is about 45-50 KV an additional effect is created. At high engine speeds, air moves at high speed through the tube, at a potential of more than 40 KV, all incoming air can be ionized. Ionized air does not meet resistance in the entire path to the combustion chambers, which means that the higher the rpm, the higher the injection and the boost effect. The acceleration at the 1 st and 2 nd speeds to the maximum speed is almost instantaneous. The engine pleasantly buzzes without a blistering roar.
Of course, periodically the effect will be lost, the tube is clogged with dust and it is necessary to clean the inner walls. In my experience I had to do once in 600-700 km. I'm bored and I want to try a version with metal sponges.
And a few words on the design. Unfortunately, this scheme is weak for the maximum effect of the tube. Any scheme for increasing the voltage can be used. I want to try it with the ignition coil and a frequency of 200-300 Hz. The effect begins to vanish at a frequency of the voltage converter above 7-10 kHz. The first few minutes when the converter operates at high frequencies, there are no claims, but then the ionization is gradually broken. The higher the frequency, the faster this time comes. Also affects the output voltage of the step-up transformer. The higher it is, the lower the frequency of the converter. High-frequency high-voltage voltage is not polarized by diodes. I have long thought about this question, why does not it work? Plus on the spot, the minus is also present. But why from the tube bears a stale and warm odor of air, from which the head begins to ache? And the ionizer does not have any effect at all. He even tried to make a negative electrode in Chyzhevsky's chandelier, but he also radiated a nasty stench. All revealed by chance - I connected in series two high-voltage diode, but opposite conclusions. From the outlet there should be no tension. But with a screwdriver, I saw an arc. The alternating current of high frequency and voltage of the diodes is not an obstacle. For a good result, it is enough 0,4А with the onboard voltage, the frequency of the converter 800-3000 Hz and 25000В on the electrodes of the tube. A fresh frosty ozone odor from the working tube marks the correct operation of the ionizer. And on the contrary, a warm, stale and unpleasant breeze is a sign of a malfunction. It can be broken through a power transistor, given a high frequency of the converter or a malfunction of the multiplier.
In this direction, there is still something to work on. You can find a more efficient radiator of negative ions. The electrical circuit precisely requires refinement. My hands itch, but I do not have time. I would be grateful for your help.
Supplements to observations:
- 1. Resistor R1 in the scheme is better to put a trimmer type SP-5. In my scheme on every bump he constantly changed the resistance and the current of consumption of the ionizer changed. The effect of the tube also changed, and we constantly had to adjust the UOZ. Sin to the dirt in the tube, but it turns out it does not noticeably affect the work of the ionizer. Therefore, the tube can not be cleaned. After assembly, check by tapping on the device, the current should not be changed.
- 2. The current can be set 1,3-1,5 A, the effect is. In general, the change in the consumption current by a few tenths of a share significantly affects the effect. Especially at high revs.
- 3. When the ionizer is initially installed, the UOZ will leave in the positive direction due to the removal of the deposit from the combustion chambers (the detonation disappears). However, when it is disconnected, the UOZ can increase even more, but for a couple of hundred kilometers. Further, the car again becomes sluggish with the engine running continuously, the dynamics fall to the previous values. After a significant run with the ionizer, when it is disconnected, there is a significant decrease in power.
- 4. The engine with the ionizer gets warmer faster, but it also heats up in traffic jams more. The increased temperature of the mixture burns. However, no deterioration, burn-out of valves, fusions were noticed. For 25000 km of run with ionizer only positive indicators are observed. The fuel mixture burns faster, which indicates the appearance of detonation after the ionizer is turned on, it is necessary to reduce the UOZ by 1-3 degrees. But if you do not use the ionizer, then the UOZ will still have to be reduced by a few degrees. due to the formation of carbon deposits. The machine is dull, fuel consumption is increasing.
- 5. The tube generates a small amount of ozone, it does not affect the details of the whole path from the inlet to the outlet. You can read the link about the ozone roof, given below. In this version, the car worked on almost one ozone, but as seen from the author's observations, no deterioration occurred.
- 6. I did not find the emitters more efficient than the tube. It is compact, at a voltage above 40,000 volts, it maximizes ionization of the high-speed air pressure at maximum engine rpm. The difference is significant when the ionizer is turned off and on.
- 7. Измерить напряжение в трубке просто – длинной отверткой с хорошо изолированной ручкой касаетесь центрального электрода (проволочки) и подводите ее кончик к стенкам трубки. Как только начнут проскакивать искры, измерьте расстояние пробоя. 1мм это 3000 Вольт. Если пробой 12 мм, то напряжение соответственно 36000 Вольт. Но так как приведенная схема слаба, а ток в трубке обязательно увеличится при таком измерении, то на самом деле напряжение будет выше чем при измерении. Возможно на 3000-5000 Вольт.
- 8. Схема хорошо себя зарекомендовала, хотя проста и далека от идеала. Очень качественные указанные полевые транзисторы. После простоя в пробках до радиатора транзистора не возможно было дотронуться рукой, он был раскален. Но схема работала без нареканий. Фирма гарантирует работу транзисторов до температуры нагрева 170 град. Похоже на правду. По крайней мере, наши транзисторы в подобных условиях «приказывали долго жить». По началу я боялся ионизатора, мало ли что случится под капотом или вообще с машиной. Под креслом до сих пор два приличных огнетушителя. Но опасения оказались напрасными. Ионизатор прошел годовую проверку жарой, морозом и ныряниями в глубокие лужи. Так что добросовестно сделанный прибор хлопот не доставит.