Increasing the power and dynamism of a car engine (Ozonator)
Since the purchase of the new VAZ - 2107 car, I was constantly at a loss, the stupid dynamics of the car was killing me. There was a short time when she was playful and obedient. With a sharp push of the gas pedal to the floor, she grabbed instantly, in 4th gear from 40 km / h uphill, she gained speed at the envy of other owners of the classics. But then strange things began to happen. Dynamics has gradually fallen. When trying to pull from the bottom, detonation began to appear, with the change in the SPD to no avail. It got to the point that it shot at the silencer, but detonation was constantly present when the accelerator pedal was pressed for more than 2/3 of the stroke. At the same time, the engine roared like an airplane, but there was no satisfactory acceleration. I turned to many car services in the city, on acquaintance, on the advice of other car owners. The situation has not changed. Someone blamed the installed Octane-4, someone on the tightened valves, someone on the quality of gasoline and a carburetor with candles, etc. I threw a fair amount to verify all the alleged causes, it was not that. However, I was not the only one unhappy. During my ordeals, I talked with a lot of owners of the classics, whose disposal was cars from a needle from a needle to the “cents” of the 70s. And not only the classics had this problem. The front-wheel drive carburetor VAZ dullness is also common. It was possible to abandon this splinter, considering it a defect in the domestic auto industry, but the desire to correct the situation was haunting.
Searches for the cause in the technical literature have been unsuccessful. I browsed the articles of ordinary car enthusiasts on the Internet and somehow stumbled on ignition ignition. His obvious signs were on his face. Constant detonation, when the ignition was turned off without the carburetor's electrovalve tripping, the engine shook for a couple of seconds. A car with a cold engine was much better. In winter, in frost -30, good agility appeared. I poured into the Aspect-Modifier tank to clean the combustion chambers and the entire fuel system - a miracle happened. The engine began to work very quietly, even at high speeds. Appeared decent acceleration traction, pleasantly pressed into the chair. Acceleration to 100 km / h (speedometer) 11.7 seconds using 3 gears. The car is equipped with a BSZ Oktan-4, Solex-21073 with a fuel nozzle of the first chamber 110, the second is untouched. The rest is full-time. Happiness was short-lived. I developed a tank with an additive, and after a run of 500 km, there was a former lethargy. There was not even a desire to drive.
Once I noticed an interesting thing - the car always drove briskly after the rain. After a thunderstorm, it was even better. Yes, and he breathed easier. During a thunderstorm or rain, the surface atmosphere is saturated with negative ions. It was from this that my research began on the “breathing” of the engine, in the literal sense of the word. From the materials at hand, I collected an air ionizer and installed it in front of the air filter. My guesses were confirmed - already after 20 km of run with an ionizer, I began to feel improvements. And after 300km the car acquired qualities that I had never seen in it. It was easy to move off from 2nd gear, driving at 30 km / h for 4th gear was easy. Need to speed up? You are welcome! The car immediately obediently and confidently gained momentum without failures, twitching and detonation. Many people know this feature of the classics, the car has the best dynamics in the range of 3000-3500 rpm. Although the maximum power develops at 5600 rpm, rarely does anyone spin above 4000. The thrust disappears noticeably as the engine speed approaches the maximum mark. With an ionizer, the dynamics is uniform at all revolutions, in 1st and 2nd gear with a slipper on the floor, the maximum revolutions are gained instantly, manage to switch. I can safely say that the cause of stupidity at high engine speeds is mostly carbon. Even the majority has such a moment - when driving at 2000-2500 rpm, pressing the gas all the way, the car does not react for some time. This is not even a failure, just a reaction of zero. Only after a couple of seconds, acceleration gradually begins. But during this time the moment is lost, overtaking is frustrated. I can say with confidence that it’s not the carburetor and ignition. In the sun! Even light brownish soot can provoke abnormal combustion of fuel. Moreover, in various weather conditions, the burning rate of the fuel mixture has a wide range. If after a thunderstorm the car goes with ease, and when the gas pedal is sunk into the floor, you may not even observe detonation, then as if in a fog or before a thunderstorm, a plow is attached to an iron horse. The car refuses to go, there is strong engine braking, detonation, the engine roars, but there is no dynamics. In such weather, there is an active accumulation of soot in the combustion chambers. Many will express the opinion that humidity is to blame. However, remember the recent past when many craftsmen tried to introduce devices to add water to the fuel mixture to reduce fuel consumption and CO emissions. There was no deposit, CO practically disappeared and the motor worked cheerfully. Therefore, the combustion process is not affected by water, but by the presence of negative ions in the surrounding air. Being next to a waterfall in a fog of falling water, you feel freshness and ease of breathing, despite the high humidity from which the clothes become damp. Here it is the difference in the properties of high humidity - with ordinary fog and near a waterfall.
The electrical circuit of the ionizer is shown in Figure 1. The use of a field effect transistor allows to simplify the circuit as much as possible. From my own experience I will say that they are not afraid of static electricity, you can safely work as with ordinary ones. It is better to use high-voltage capacitors in the multiplier of the type indicated, large capacitance with small dimensions and it is convenient to work with them. They are full in the TV studio and on the radio market.
- R1 - 47k, R2 - 75k, R3 - 1.5k, R4 - 2k;
- C1 - 10nF, C2 - 47uF x 25V, C3 - 500uF x 25V;
- DD1 - K561LN2;
- VT1 - IRL3803, IRF3205, IRFP064, IRFP2907;
- VD1,2 - KD103A, KD521A;
- T1 - TVS110P2;
- FU1 - 2A;
The multiplier - capacitors 2200pF x 10000V type K73-13, diodes KTs106G.
The findings of the DD1 chip from left to right: 13,12,1,2,3,4.
Conclusion from KREN5A to the 7th output of DD1.
The step-up transformer line from the BW TV, you will find there. Remove all primary windings and wind 9 turns with the same wire from the remote windings. It is better to prewind several turns of electrical tape. To power the microcircuit, you can use the CRANK on 9V, but it is very hot. Be sure to install the transistor on a radiator of at least 5x5 cm with cooling fins. You understand, not home conditions under the hood. The voltage multiplier is assembled by hinged mounting, you can glue the capacitors together, and then solder the diodes. Be sure to fill it with an epoxy compound in a suitable form. In extreme cases, buy Anles Epoxy Classic compound, this is an epoxy with putty properties. Treat it with a thick layer of all the terminals of the capacitors and diodes. The scheme is located in one case. I have a multiplier located 4 cm from the radiator of the transistor, no problem. The case of the horizontal transformer is connected to the mass, electrostatic electricity accumulates on it, which periodically breaks through the primary winding through the gasket. Malfunctions certainly do not occur, but it is better to play it safe. And always after assembling the circuit, test it at idle without a tube. At the same time, the voltage on the multiplier will be about 60000V. In the dark, the body of the multiplier should not glow. Then it will turn into a breakdown. The above circuit is weak for the tube and when connected, its voltage will not rise above 30000-35000V. Instead of a home-made multiplier, you can use the multiplier from the UN-9/27 TV. There is a plus conclusion. It would seem no difference. But an engine with different polarity of the multiplier changes its character. If the multiplier is with a negative output, then the engine is more flexible in operation, excellent ground and horse thrust, the ignition angle will increase by 1-3 degrees. If you use ready-made from the TV, then a bad ground draft with detonation (but better than no ionizer at all), the horse riding is excellent, the SPD will have to be reduced by a couple of degrees, the engine is noisy. And another drawback - the tube is an electrostatic precipitator, traps the smallest dust that settles on the inner wall. Gradually, it becomes an electrical insulator and the effect decreases. Have to wipe the walls every 300 km. In Fig. 2, the switching circuit of industrial UN9 / 27. To increase the voltage and effect, you can add a home-made multiplier as shown, you can also without it. Do not use megaohm resistors on the high voltage output from the multiplier as this is done for safety in home ionizers. In the tube there will be a strong voltage drop and loss of effect, it is better to take care of insulation.
In the case where the circuit components are located, make a hole for high voltage output. I used the contact from the cover of the distributor which is glued into the body with epoxy. The wire from the multiplier is easily soldered to the contact and a high-voltage ignition wire is standardly connected. He will be alone. In my version, I made two conclusions without grounding to the mass of the car. In any case, it works well and no difference. The setup of the circuit consists in installing a consumption current of 0.6-0.8A by the resistor R1. A larger current produces no results.
A sketch of the tube is shown in Figure 3. The tube is made of a deodorant body, all have a practically standard diameter of 52mm. The length of the tube is 7-9cm. It must be enclosed in a suitable housing so that the distance to the housing is 5-7 mm. You can glue the body of the PCB. Cut the partition from PCB or plastic according to the diameter of the tube and the inner size of the case, put it on the tube, coat the joints with quick glue (I used Poksipol), insert it into the body, coat it again and fill the cavity with epoxy compound. It is marked in yellow. First, on the one hand, after the glue hardens on the other. To the edges of the tube. Then cut two slats 3 mm wide and make a thin hole in the center. Stick on the edges of the tube so that the hole is clearly in the center of the pipe. The tube body will be mounted on the winter-summer switch from below instead of a warm air pipe. It is necessary to cut another part like a strap with a round hole or cut it in a finished case for docking with a switch. Also, make a hole in the body of the ionizer tube for pasting the contact from the distributor cover. If the multiplier is with a negative potential, then the contact is connected to the central wire in the tube, and the tube body to ground. If the output is plus, then the contact is on the tube body, and the central core is on the mass. You can make two contacts as in the figure, but it is more expensive, but there is no difference. The role of the central wire in the ionizer is performed by the hair from the cable. The thinner the better. It is fastened by electrical clamps on the slats to a stretch. The minus wire is inserted into the same clip. The edges of the tube must be coated with epoxy to avoid corona discharge. In general, all high-voltage parts must be well processed (except for the inner surface of the tube and the central wire), the wires should be as short as possible. Air enters the tube from below, is ionized, and goes on through the winter-summer switch. The bottom of the ionizer must be made 3-4 cm longer than the tube for safety. A good option would be with a round plastic housing of the ionizer so that it can be inserted instead of the winter-summer switch. At first, you can not make a tube, but find a suitable case, fill it with metal sponges for washing dishes and connect the negative output of the multiplier to this grid. The voltage will immediately jump to 50,000V. In this embodiment, it is necessary to solder a resistor of 20-30MΩ at the output of the multiplier. You may like it and don’t have to make the handset. The tube is a powerful ionizer, and with a voltage in the tube of the order of 45-50 KV an additional effect is created. At high engine speeds, air moves at high speed through the tube, with a potential of more than 40 KV, all incoming air manages to ionize. Ionized air does not meet resistance in the entire path to the combustion chambers, which means that the higher the speed, the more the injection occurs and the boost effect appears. Acceleration at the 1st and 2nd speeds to the maximum speed is almost instant. The engine buzzes pleasantly without anguish roar.
Of course, the effect will periodically be lost, the tube clogged with dust and it is necessary to clean the inner walls. In my experience, I had to do once every 600-700km. I’m tired of admitting and I want to try the option with metal sponges.
And a few more words on the design. Unfortunately, the above scheme is weak for the maximum tube effect. You can use any voltage boost circuit. I want to try it with an ignition coil and a frequency of 200-300Hz. The effect begins to disappear when the frequency of the voltage converter is above 7-10 kHz. The first few minutes when the converter operates at high frequencies, there are no complaints, but then gradually the ionization is violated. The higher the frequency, the faster this moment comes. The output voltage of the step-up transformer also affects. The higher it is, the lower the frequency of the converter should be. High-frequency high-voltage voltage is not polarized by diodes. I thought about this question for a long time, why it doesn’t work? Plus in place, minus is also present. But why does the tube carry stale and smelling warm air from which the head begins to hurt? Nor does the ionizer have any effect. He even tried to make one negative electrode in Chizhevsky’s chandelier, but he also radiated a nasty stink. Everything revealed by chance - I connected in series two high-voltage diodes, but with opposite leads. There should not have been any voltage from the exit. But bringing a screwdriver, I saw an arc. Alternating current of high frequency and voltage diodes are not an obstacle. For a good result, 0.4A with on-board voltage, a frequency of the converter 800-3000Hz and 25000V on the tube electrodes is enough. Fresh frosty ozone smell from a working tube is a sign of the correct operation of the ionizer. Conversely, a warm, stale and unpleasant breeze is a sign of malfunction. This can be broken by a power transistor, a high frequency of the converter or a fault in the multiplier is set.
In this direction there is still work to do. You can find a more efficient emitter of negative ions. The electrical circuit definitely needs refinement. Hands itch, but no time. I would be grateful for your help.
Additions to observations:
- 1. The resistor R1 in the circuit is better to put a tuning type SP-5. In my circuit, on each bump, it constantly changed the resistance and the current consumption of the ionizer changed. The tube effect also changed, constantly having to adjust the SPD. Sinned for dirt in the tube, but it turns out it does not noticeably affect the operation of the ionizer. Therefore, the handset may not be cleaned. After assembly, check by tapping on the device, the current should not change.
- 2. The current can be set 1.3-1.5 A, the effect is. In general, a change in the current consumption by several tenths of a significant effect on the effect. Especially at high speeds.
- 3. At the initial installation of the ionizer, the SPD will go in the positive direction by removing carbon deposits from the combustion chambers (detonation disappears). However, when it is turned off, the UOZ can increase even more, but by a couple of hundred kilometers. Further, the machine again becomes sluggish with a stubbornly working engine, the dynamics drops to the previous levels. After a significant mileage with the ionizer, when it is turned off, a significant drop in power is felt.
- 4. An engine with an ionizer warms up faster, but also gets warmer in traffic jams. The increased combustion temperature of the mixture affects. However, no deterioration, burn-out of valves, reflows were noticed. Over 25,000 km with an ionizer, only positive indicators are observed. The fuel mixture burns faster, which indicates the appearance of detonation after turning on the ionizer, it is necessary to reduce the SPD by 1-3 degrees. But if you do not use an ionizer, then the SPD will still have to be reduced by a few degrees. due to the formation of soot. At the same time, the machine becomes dull, fuel consumption increases.
- 5. The tube produces a tiny amount of ozone; it does not affect the details of the entire path from inlet to outlet. You can read the link about the ozone roof below. In this version, the car worked almost on one ozone, but as can be seen from the author's observations, no deterioration occurred.
- 6. I have not found emitters more effective than a tube. It is compact, with a voltage above 40,000 volts, it maximally ionizes the high-speed air pressure at maximum engine speeds. The difference is significant when the ionizer is turned off and on.
- 7. Measure the voltage in the tube simply - with a long screwdriver with a well-insulated handle, touch the central electrode (wire) and bring its tip to the walls of the tube. As sparks begin to slip, measure the breakdown distance. 1mm is 3000 Volts. If the breakdown is 12 mm, then the voltage is 36,000 volts, respectively. But since the above circuit is weak, and the current in the tube will necessarily increase with such a measurement, then in fact the voltage will be higher than with the measurement. Perhaps at 3000-5000 volts.
- 8. The scheme has worked well, although it is simple and far from ideal. Very high quality field effect transistors. After a downtime in traffic jams, it was not possible to touch the transistor radiator by hand, it was hot. But the circuit worked flawlessly. The company guarantees the operation of transistors up to a heating temperature of 170 degrees. Sounds like the truth. At least, our transistors in such conditions "ordered to live long." At first, I was afraid of the ionizer, you never know what will happen under the hood or even with the car. Under the chair there are still two decent fire extinguishers. But fears were in vain. The ionizer passed an annual test by heat, frost and diving into deep puddles. So a conscientiously made device will not cause trouble.