How to correctly kill a computerThere are many reasons why someone may need to kill or bring into a state of clinical death any computer piece of hardware.
Most often, such a need arises when, for example, at work, “completely by chance” they buy new computers for secretaries with characteristics more suitable for a hardcore gamer. Losing a guarantee is not difficult to arrange, but to organize the decommissioning of iron is much more difficult. Or, for example, a hacker bought a new piece of metal, without thinking and seeing the reviews on the network. The device turns out to be a Chinese hand-made article, and the owner has a strong need to return it to the store. However, here he stumbles upon the wonders of his native bureaucracy and the truly ingenious interpretations of the law on consumer rights. It turns out that they completely exclude the possibility of returning a technically sound product. It often turns out that the buyer himself agreed to these unfavorable conditions by signing his own sentence, called the warranty card. It is in such cases that the ability to competently kill a piece of metal can be useful to him, leaving no traces of a crime on the body of the victim.
Reversible kill methods
In some cases, an attacker can secure himself in case the iron he wants to return has damage that would deprive him of his warranty, but still works somehow. In this case, he does not want to kill the device completely and irrevocably, since this is fraught with a complete failure of the operation. Then the hacker runs the risk of a disclaimer of warranty and an unrecoverable device that no one and no excuse will be able to push. It is quite difficult to kill a piece of iron so that it can be easily revived. The fact is that the attacker must bypass the masters from the service center in this business, otherwise they will fix it and return it back. Fortunately, in most service centers they do not repair iron, but, pointing to the sky, make a conclusion about a marriage or a breakdown due to the user's fault and write the corresponding paper. Nevertheless, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of another scenario, when the device will still try to fix it. Toolkit hacker is best to have on hand a good and diverse tool. After all, he remembers that in most cases you have to climb inside the device. Therefore, we must have a huge number of different screwdrivers of all types and sizes. Screwdrivers for non-standard screws may also be required. Often used alcohol, tweezers of different sizes and a scalpel. Aces often use a soldering iron, a good non-smoke flux and a heat gun.
To kill the hard drive in such a way that only the hacker himself could restore it, it can only be done by hardware. Of course, you can twist the software part of the device by making soft bedblocks, or emulate creepy brakes, disabling all modes of operation, except PIO. But all this is quickly and efficiently treated in the hands of a literate person, so it’s not worth the risk. The surest way to make the screw glitch shamelessly, knock on the bows and refuse to work is damage to the contacts between the printed circuit board and the HDA. In most modern disks, the connection of the thermoblock to the board is ensured by spring-loaded contacts embedded in the can itself, while in the corresponding place on the printed circuit board there are contact pads against which these teeth abut. If you break the contact of one or all of the teeth in this place with the board, you can get very interesting special effects and glitches. It is important for the villain to do this so that nothing can be seen, even if a service engineer gets in there. The easiest way to achieve this is to apply a clear, colorless varnish on the printed circuit board that will serve as a reliable insulator, and at the same time noticeable. In some models of hard drives, so far, instead of contacts, thin cables are used that are inserted into the slot of a printed circuit board. In this case, the attacker gently removes the cable from its connector and covers the contacts with the same varnish. The reverse method automatically follows from this method, this time with a conductive lacquer, which used to unlock a multiplier on Athlon processors. It all depends on the hacker fantasy. The basic rule that technology is guided by in this situation is that in no case should you touch the power circuits associated with the power of the hard drive, otherwise you can overdo it and arrange a colorful show with fireworks. At the same time, the contacts are smeared very carefully so that they can be washed later. Usually they like to close low-current, but critical circuits, for example, data buses on a module, memory cache or BIOS. Some people like to make fun of the processor, but then you have to act at random - it’s usually hard to find a datasheet on it. They try not to overdo it with the amount of lacquer, as it is likely that you will have to launder it.
To kill the device completely and irrevocably, the hacker can use several truly blasphemous methods. The first and most reliable is to wrap the hard in a towel and beat off the kidneys. They are usually beaten heavily, but neatly, in order not to damage the appearance of the device. Beaten by the screw will get all sorts of bias mechanics banks, so that he will cease to work. However, there is some danger that something inside the bank will drift away, and under the guarantee it will definitely not be accepted, but this probability is minimal. The second way is to disfigure electronics with electricity. For example, some villains take a piezo element from a lighter, the cylindrical side connects its contact with the mass (body) of the hard drive and passes beautiful electric arcs in the direction of any selected chip. The best thing for this is the cache chip, the processor and the BIOS. A hacker can pour a conductive varnish under the legs of the chip so as to eliminate any possibility of it being washed away. If after all this the device continues to work, the villain will only have to tell others about the miracle.
CD / DVD drive
With disk drives, the situation is quite different. On the one hand, it may seem that it is much easier to disable a CD drive, but this is not always the case. The essence of the problem lies in the lack of accessibility to the electronics of the cutter, because it is always securely packed in a case that protects the device from dust, and the user - from noise. At first glance it may seem that it is not a problem to unscrew the four screws and remove the casing, but in practice everything is not so simple. The fact is that most companies seal the shells of such devices with warranty stickers. Programmatically, you can only ditch the device by pulling it out during the flashing process, but recovering the firmware after this will be very problematic. The villains have only one way to go: use the part of the board that is available for modification, next to the power and interface connectors. Usually use the same conductive varnish. There is a chance to close some important drive lines. Also, a hacker can try to pour varnish into the IDE connector. The effect, apparently, will be interesting.
The first and most effective way is to turn off the power of the device at the time of the flashing. As already mentioned, removing a BIOS chip from a sidyu board is often very problematic, since in most cases it is soldered there. As a result, it is almost impossible to uncover a conspiracy, that is, expose a fraudster. To do this, remove the microcircuit, connect it to the programmer and analyze the contents. Even if someone does this, it will not be proof of a crime, since the firmware rally could occur due to any glitches of electronics. Through the open tray, you can disfigure the mechanics of the drive for opening the tray - for example, pouring glue into the gear wheel axis, however there is a high probability that the hacker will be immediately wrapped up with such a malfunction without hesitation.
There is a huge number of ways to make a video card buggy and in all its glory to demonstrate a whole bunch of faults. The most effective way is to emulate some kind of classical malfunction - for example, RAM. In this case, the villain has the opportunity to go programmatically, speeding up the video card to such a level that it still functions somehow, but it's already buggy. To fix the overclocking, the hacker needs to flash the obtained values in BIOS vidyuhi. To do this, he merges her native BIOS from the card, corrects one of the existing editors and fills it in again. As you understand, this method is easily fixed by a simple flashing, but it is unlikely that anyone will bother with it. The villain can do it easier: just kill the BIOS with the left firmware or turn off the computer at the moment when the flasher does not recommend it. Recover the BIOS video card and then you can touch or with the participation of the second vidyuhi. For more reliable dirty tricks, the villain uses the same conductive varnish, generously drawing the conclusions of one of the memory chips. As a result, various special effects in the form of extraneous characters and stripes will flaunt on the monitor screen.
Here opens a wide field for action. This is the first device we are discussing, with virtually no protection from external influences. It, as a rule, does not possess the case and contains the minimum quantity of plastic parts. This means that with the help of a soldering iron or a hot air gun, “extra” parts can be removed from it. For this, you also need a good flux, since the hacker has no right to leave traces of soldering and allow the evil service engineer to wrap the device. If you ever carefully examined a video card, you could not help noticing that it has a huge number of different elements. In this case, far from all of the parts divorced on the board for the elements are occupied with details, so the absence of a single component will not be noticeable, but the device will still refuse to work. Usually remove the elements located on the back side of the board, at the place where the processor is installed. This increases the likelihood that the villain will remove the critical part, and not some kind of filter. The chipset of the RAM chips is also very sensitive, after which they are removed, the chip will stop functioning correctly. In order to gently remove the element, the hacker must first heat it with a soldering iron or a heat gun, and then gently pull with tweezers. After that, the villain must necessarily elevate the place of intervention. To do this, the surface is smeared with flux and heated, as a result of which the contact pads will look as if there was nothing there. It will only wash off the flux with alcohol. The way with the piezo-element works well, but the operational memory does not like such things. And, finally, the easiest way is to turn off the cooling of the video card and torment it in this state. True, this method is the most unpredictable - the processor may die, or maybe the printed circuit board will burn, and, of course, they will not take it as a guarantee.
With sound cards, things are the same as with video. Not everyone knows that the overwhelming number of zvukovuh have their own programmable BIOS, which can also be killed by an attacker, but restoring it is not so easy. Therefore, they usually use fantasy and a little varnish.
A villain can try to burn the sound card processor, sharply submitting a powerful to the line or microphone inputs, a signal — in the past, not a soundtrack was burned like that. In this case, as a rule, not only the input itself is damaged, but also the chains responsible for the output, but how it will be dealt with in the service center, we can only guess.
With a mother, a hacker can do whatever your heart desires, not particularly afraid of losing the guarantee. The reason is simple to ugliness. Inspecting the entire PCB for microdamages, lack of parts and other cunning modifications is very difficult because of its large size. Of course, the boards are examined, but not under a microscope and without a catalog of the elements on it. Only some necrophilists from the Mitinsky market and similar figures from small computer companies who are losing their money are capable of this. In most large firms, this is simply no time. Therefore, if there are no obvious mechanical damage on the board, then the villain can safely take it in warranty. It is very difficult to programmatically kill the mother in such a way as to “roll back” the malfunction. Damage to the BIOS will not do here, since it is simply fixed. Only the conductive varnish remains. It is usually applied near vital nodes, for example, near BIOS, clock generators, as well as on non-soldered parts of the board. Of course, the most reliable and less pale method is the removal of some elements, but this method is reversible only with the reservation on good soldering equipment and straight arms, because putting the CMD element in place is much more difficult than removing it.
Of the irreversible it is necessary to allocate only the dismantling of important parts necessary for the operation of the board. Various quartz oscillators and elements standing on the internal bus between bridges are best suited. Their absence will ensure the complete inoperability of the board. However, piezoelectric also suitable. To avoid undue suspicion, a villain can try to kill any single part — for example, a memory controller. This breakdown will look much more plausible - the board will simply scream with a good mate, demanding to insert the RAM. After all, complete death in mothers does not occur so often.
With the murder of the periphery, it all depends on the specific situation. For example, many printers and most CRT monitors have special service modes, which can disfigure the device. In monitors using these modes
the villain can distort the image so that it will be almost impossible to restore the original settings. These settings are made at the factory with the participation of complex equipment, at home, and in the conditions of a small service center this is not fixed. This menu is entered by pressing a certain combination of buttons, but for all monitors it is different. On some monitors, such as Sony, it does not exist at all, and the service menu is accessed via a special data ‑ cable from a computer. With printers, the situation is similar, however, in household low-cost printers such functions are rarely present, mostly it is possible on expensive production models designed for offices. The same applies to other devices, such as hardware dial up modems. In them all the settings are stored in the modem's memory, with their help it can be brought to a completely inoperable state. The fact is that their settings allow you to completely change the reaction to the communication line; in certain situations, the modem will simply stop seeing the line. However, it is treated with the usual return to factory settings.
As you can see, a villain can ruin any device without problems. Most modern devices have their own internal firmware, and if you study the details of their configuration and operation well, you can successfully emulate many faults. Do not forget that in the service centers are also literate people who sometimes are not so easy to fool.