Lock pick guide
You must stay in the unlocked position. It is just that you’re currently stuck. You will be able to make it up for a pin. Once a pin has been picked up, it will be shown. If you don’t, then you’ll be able to keep it up.
Today, the most common way to break a lock with a cylinder mechanism is to break the cylinder mechanism in half. In the photo you can see the result of the breaking of the cylinder mechanism.
And the technique itself is as follows. A thief is looking for apartments with wooden doors and locks with a profile cylinder, as a rule, these are accessible to all KALE, APEX, etc. How much they cost, so much and cherish the apartment. Next, unscrew the decorative cover, covering the hole in the door, where the cylinder lock mechanism was inserted. If to the right and to the left of the cylinder there is a space of 5 mm, then this is enough to seize the protruding part of the cylinder with pliers or pliers and swing it strongly to the right and left. Everything, the cylinder broke in the central part and it should be vytashit from the lock. Now you can unlock the lock with any hook. By the time it takes 2-3 minutes. If the door was done in good faith and the cylinder mechanism fits tightly into the door, then the hole is quickly widened with a screwdriver or a chisel, this does not amount to labor. It is a little more difficult if the door is metal, but it will delay the thieves only a little longer.
Maybe someone will say, but where is the way out? He is. And know that dozens of people a day suffer from theft, only because of the bad faith of manufacturers of locks and profile cylinders. The exit is very simple and well known. The photos show without comment how to strengthen the cylinder lock mechanism. Simple, cheap and reliable. I do not think that a metal plate bent with the letter "P" with six holes would greatly increase the cost of a part. I just think that manufacturers do not respect you and hold you for fools, and you all buy such locks, encouraging them to continue the production of obviously worthless products.
No matter how much they write, so that the Turkish castles are not installed, it still does not reach people. The forums are discussed locks KALE, ORNEK, TURKEY, FAIN not without purpose. They stand on the doors, they are sold and bought. What caused the demand? I think the following components: low price, red color of the box of the castle and shiny bolts. People love the color red and the fact that it glitters.
But seriously, I show in pictures how to hack any of the above models of locks. The photos will be one of them - KALE, but others are the same. He checked himself.
In the first photo, the appearance of "everyone's favorite lock", on the second, the simplest version of breaking with a cross-head screwdriver, although the screwdriver should go quite deep into the keyhole. Oddly enough, but this lock was really unlocked by this screwdriver without much effort, which surprised me a lot. I was preparing for serious work. And so the other castle was unlocked like this.
You see, the "roll" in cross section is square, sharpened under a cone, it is convenient to insert it deeply into the keyhole, the lock is bent by 90 degrees easier, the handle can be inserted into it additionally, to increase the lever, you can insert a metal rod. But I was preparing very seriously. I still have two clovens made by specials. order, especially for breaking locks with a cylinder mechanism with three rows of pins. The working part of these "wrappings" was thermally strengthened. I began to look for a suitable lock. The Turkish ones are all broken, but there is also a Russian-made KERBEROS lock, with a cylinder mechanism with three rows of pins made in Italy.
Immediately I was surprised that the lock is from a low price group, but it was made very soundly, massive bolts of heat-treated metal, departure of bolts 40 mm, the bolt stand has protection against drilling, the design is simple and reliable. Well, I will break, although a little sorry, it seems to be a good lock.
I inserted a key from another lock into the lock and tried to turn it with pliers, did not come out, broke the key. The lock mechanism was not affected. The cross screwdriver was immediately set aside and decided to try out specially made "rolls". The test result you see for yourself.
I did not have a device for measuring the force with which I tried to rotate the cylinder lock mechanism, but believe me, the efforts were great. As a result of the tests, he broke both "rolls".
This adaptation did not justify itself either. In search of a reliable burglary tool, he took a four-sided file, sharpened the end under the cone, drove it into the well for the key to failure, attached a lever to the file and turned it in the cylinder mechanism. However, the lock was not unlocked. After that, the study of the cylinder mechanism found that the file cut off the protruding angles and began to turn, but the pins were not touched, because recessed deep enough. The lock is still unlocked with the key. If there is a "unbelieving Thomas", visit St. Petersburg, Primorsky Ave., 29, I installed this lock on one of the cabinets.
Even after all the efforts, the lock was not unlocked. The cylinder lock mechanism, as you see, practically did not suffer, the external protruding parts broke, but this did not affect the operation of the mechanism. For this lock, the above described methods of hacking were powerless.
Conclusion: not all locks of this type are the same. I hope the manufacturers of the KERBEROS castle were not very offended that I put it on trial in line with the Turkish ones.
The essence of the method is as follows. If you leave the key in the level lock on the inside of the door (and, as practice shows, the majority comes in), then you can easily take a cast from the key left in the lock using plasticine or similar material. And the next day, when you go about your business, the thief will quietly open your door with a duplicate key. In this case, the police, who arrived at your call on the fact of burglary, states that the lock has no damage and is opened by "selecting the key". Experts know that it is almost impossible to just pick the same (different) key to normally made lever locks. The real number of combinations of Cisa, Kerberos and some other level locks exceeds 200 million variants. Thus, it is impossible to bring a carriage of keys with you, and it is very difficult to fit the key to the lock in place, although there is a method for “removing deformation prints”. This method is complicated and not every thief is available in its complexity and duration. Of course there are locks released with violations of technological modes of manufacture, with increased gaps in the code groove between the tooth and the levers and the crossbar. There are locks deliberately released with the same combination of options on the keys due to the low level of technological equipment and the desire to reduce their costs at cost. To like the lock to find the key is not difficult. But the thieves, already in addition to the existing unlocking of the locks, developed a new one, combining reconnaissance of the place of theft with the removal of a fingerprint from the key. So how do thieves open the lock without leaving a mark on the lock?
This method requires plasticine, a little liquid oil, a metal plate about 10 cm long, about 0.5 mm thick, a width equal to the width of the key of the key and, for example, a clerical awl. I had a metal ruler on hand (see photo 1), which I modified on emery to the desired size and sewed out of the estate, turned a part of the electrode.
Photo 1. A tool with which you can make an impression of the key left in the lock on the inside of the door.
Methods of taking impressions from the key left in the lock on the inside of the door:
- On the metal plate, it is necessary to roll out the clay to make a layer with a thickness of about 1-1.5 mm.
- From above we grease the plasticine so that it does not stick to the key beard.
- We look into the keyhole and seeing the key, acting (raising or lowering) with an awl through the keyhole on the right or left side of the key bar, turn the key slightly so that the space left is enough to push the plate with clay.
- We push the inside of the lock under (or above) the key beard a plate with clay plastered on it.
- We remove the awl, the key returns to a horizontal position under the influence of the springs of the levers and the key beard is pressed against the clay, leaving its imprint there.
- To get a good impression, it is necessary to press the key to the clay again with an awl, acting on the right or left part of the key barb, as you prefer.
- After the key beard was pressed against the clay and an impression was obtained, we repeat the same procedure with respect to the second key beard.
And if we know a manufacturer who releases locks with a symmetrical combination, then one impression is enough, since the second half of the key barb is obtained automatically by direct or inverse symmetry. On the keys of the company Mottura, Sekureme, Atra and others and their Russian analogues Class, Gerion, Chiza-Elbor, where the design of the code mechanism of 6 suvald with a double bit of a key is used, it is enough to take an impression once, as always having received one impression, easy to get and the second by inverse symmetry. With a certain skill and training, it takes less than a minute to take an impression.
Photo 2. The photograph shows the process of taking an impression from the key. In this experiment, you see the lock CERBER. The thieves caught were specialized in it. By manipulating your right hand with an awl or other thin hard object, you slip a plate with clay with your left hand.
Photo 3. In the photo you can see the resulting clear cast, according to which it will not be difficult to make a key, having at hand the necessary key blank and file. This billet is easy to buy at any key shop for a penny.
If the key is symmetrical, in most of all locks, then it is enough to remove the impression once from either half of the key's beard, if the key is not symmetrical, then you will have to take an impression from the two halves.
Photo 4. In the photo you can see the process of taking an impression from the Mettam castle, where the non-symmetrical method of cutting combinations is applied.
Photo 5. In the photo you see the resulting cast. Since the key is not symmetrical, it is necessary to remove an impression from the other half of the key barb.
Photo 6. In the photo you can see the process of taking an impression from the Class lock.
Photo 7. In the photo you see the resulting cast.
Photo 8. In the photo you see the process of removing the cast from the Moyig Castle.
Photo 9. In the photo you see the resulting cast. Since the key is not symmetrical, it is necessary to remove an impression from the other half of the key barb.
Photo 10. In the photo you see the process of removing the cast from the castle Cisa-Elbor.
Photo 11. In the photo you see the resulting cast.
Theoretically, this way it is possible to remove the cast from the key of any level lock with a through not protected (not closed) well for the key. Avoiding thefts committed in this way is easy. It is enough not to leave the key in the lock at all. Came, closed the door, and MUST remove the key from the lock. This little trick and knowledge will help you avoid big troubles. As I already said: "Do not show the key to anyone, do not leave it unattended, do not leave the key in the lock."
Now I will talk about how to unlock the locks of the locks with the help of the "trough". The cloak (thieves' slang) is a special device for breaking the locking device of the lock in order to move the bolts to the unlocked position. I already wrote about the coils for breaking the cylinder lock mechanism, and now it is the turn of the level locks.
We have appeared on the market a huge number of lever locks, both domestic and imported. It is very difficult to find out which castle is better by yourself if you are not an expert in this field. To save you from thieves and save your money when you buy a lock, I write these lines.
The following locks were tested in the laboratory: Cisa-Elbor, Class, Cerber, Mottura, Kerberos, Mettem and Senate. But in order not to load the article with illustrations, I broke it into two parts.
The experiment began with the fact that Turner Uncle Vasya, using a mat and a lathe, in just half an hour and a bottle of vodka, made a roll over a sketch. That's actually he (kvjertyysh, not uncle Vasya).
The material from which the rollt is made is simple steel, Art. 45. The thickness of the rod chosen 8 mm. For durability. But if the waddle is “hardened” (heat-treated), then the rod can be made thinner, although, looking ahead, tests have shown that it has enough strength with a margin. The technique of ownership is as follows. The key hole is drilled with an 8 mm drill bit, then a roll is inserted into it and turned with a wrench, if necessary, a lever can be used. In our case, we used a torque wrench to determine at what force the lock is unlocked or broken.
The photos show a sequence of actions. The Cisa-Yelbor castle (article 1.06.61) was exposed to the tail of the deadbolt. With an effort of 10 Nm, the latch bar broke at the attachment point. The lock is loosened by the one-sided positioning of the levers relative to the deadbolt of the bolt and the fact that the crossbar is welded to the shaft of the bolt. The next three turns are effortless.
Castle Class. The picture is similar: with a force of 10 Nm, the deadbolt at the attachment point broke (welding) and the lock was unlocked without effort. The drawbacks of the lock are the one-sided arrangement of the levers with respect to the deadbolt of the bolt and the fact that the crossbar is welded to the shaft of the bolt.
Mottura Castle (article 52.771). With a force of 10 Nm, the comb of the shaft of the bolt was destroyed due to the "weakening" holes. The lock remained locked. However, you will have to change the lock to a new one. There is no service for Mottury in Russia, spare parts are not sold. Given the size of the castle Mottura, the Ministry of Emergency Situations "Bulgarian", turn the entire door on an area of almost half a square meter, which will add the cost to the owner almost as much as with the usual theft. In general, an effort of 10 Nm is not enough for the reliability of the lock, especially for such money.
Kerberos Castle (article 111.11.011). For the tests, five locks were taken, previous modifications and now manufactured. They all behaved with dignity. None of the locks was unlocked with the Troll. Although I "tormented" the castles mercilessly.
Originally closed the lock on four turns. With an effort of 56 Nm, the extreme tooth of the deadbolt comb bent, see photo mark 1. The lock remains locked. Disassembled the lock. Suvaldy hardly suffered, it can be seen in the photo. The support bar is firmly pressed and not deformed. I decided to check, but what will happen if the lock is closed for two turns of the key? I assembled the lock, put the curl in, turned it. With an effort of 42 Nm, the tooth of the deadbolt comb deformed, see photo mark 2. The lock remains locked. The advantages of the lock are that the levers are located on both sides of the deadbolt shank, the transom rack is securely pressed into the deadbolt shank and made of heat-treated metal.
From the tests that have been carried out, it is clear that only Mottura and Kerberos locks will reliably protect your apartment from the thief with the coagulation. At the same time, the price of the Kerberos is about 15-20 euros, and the cost of the Motture is more than 200 euros. Service Kerberos Castle in every city of Russia. Mottura is good, but in Italy. In the future, when the rescuers of the Ministry of Emergency Situations open the doors and the lock is replaced, the damage area of the door in the case of the Kerberos castle is almost three times smaller than the area with the Mottura lock. Appropriately three times less repair and replacement costs. At the same time, Kerberos clearly (FIVE WITH HALF TIMES) surpasses Mottura in the resistance force against tooth coagulation (56 Nm for Kerieros, versus 10 Nm for Mottura).
On writing this article, I was whipped up by a series of burglaries, where the locks were unlocked with the help of a similar convolution. Thefts are not disclosed and the thief is still free. Decide for yourself how to protect yourself from theft, using simple and easily accessible thieves' devices, known from time immemorial to all thieves. In the next article I will explain the thieves' technique of unlocking lever locks with the help of a twitch using real life examples.
If in the first part I demonstrated vividly that many lever locks can be opened with the help of a roll ("bear", "gate" is like someone more like it) under laboratory conditions, so to speak, for cognitive purposes, now I have taken examples from life.
It is no accident that the locks "METTEM". The quality of manufacture of the castle as a whole and its individual parts in particular, allowed thieves to easily get into the apartments with the help of a simple device, the tweezer. Thieves technique is different from the one that I described in the first article. The thief does not drill a hole in the keyhole, because This creates noise, even if the battery-powered drill. The thief comes easier. It expands the keyhole of the keyhole with a pry bar, making it sufficient to insert the fold. And then the convolution turns and opens the lock. All this takes about two minutes (checked experimentally).
What good is METTEM for a thief? Everybody. Namely:
- the lock case (box) is made of thin steel, which makes it easy to expand the well for the key.
- unilateral arrangement of suvald.
- weak fastening of a rack of a crossbar. By the way, I note that the stand of the bolt is made of "raw" (sorry, critics for the term) steel, i.e. not heat strengthened.
But I will be honest and unbiased until the end. It was so easy to unlock the lock and the fact that the key hole in the door was round, with a diameter larger than the width of the key hole in the lock. This is a big minus to the “doorways” (these are people who make doors for us). And this is a minus of not one single office for the production of metal doors, this is rather the rule, since I have a “carriage” of locks that are opened in a similar way.
And so the illustration.
You see the castle METTEM article 3VSP-06. For especially corrosive critics who write that I deliberately break locks and scare people, I note that the number "1179" can be seen in the upper left corner of the castle. This is the number of expertise, which is conducted on this lock in the 25th section of the ECC of the Central Internal Affairs Directorate of St. Petersburg. I did this inscription in order not to confuse the locks (there are a lot of them).
Enlarged image of the well for the key. The hole is enlarged enough to insert the fold.
After removing the cover of the lock box, it is clear that the crossbar is broken at the attachment point. Red arrows and numbers indicate:
1 - broken bolt rack.
2 - hole for the rack bolt.
In the castle there is a thick lubricant, but one of the levers is already covered with a thick layer of rust (in the photo the upper right).
Enlarged image of a fragment of the previous photo. Comb bolt deadbolt is not affected.
And this is the well for the key of another lock METTEM article 3ВСП-2Т 3ЩЗД. The picture is similar to the previous one.
More complex lock design, but the result is the same. Mark 1 - crossbar rack, mark 2 - place of attachment of the crossbar rack.
Enlarged image of a fragment of the previous photo. Red marked bent comb shank bolt.
For spiteful critics, I will say that I do not teach thieves to “open” locks, they themselves know how. And by telling and showing the methods of criminal unlocking and breaking of locks, I teach honest citizens how to protect themselves. If at least one person, after reading my articles, thinks about the safety of his apartment and puts a good lock in a safe door and gives the apartment under the security of the Private Security Service or a similar private security company, he will save his nerves and money, and the police will have less work and I have not spent in vain your personal money and time. I regard these articles as crime prevention, in particular apartment theft.
I offer you a few examples of criminal "opening" of locks. One of the simplest methods is to drill the cylinder pins or the deadbolt strut in lever locks. Factories making locks take action against it, such as:
- Lining the cylinder mechanism of heat-treated metal (for example, locks "ABLOY").
- Rack of a shaft of a bolt from heat-strengthened metal.
- Insert a steel ball in the end of the rack shank bolt with the aim to take the drill to the side.
- Make the mounting plate locks of heat-treated metal.
However, there are ways to circumvent the protection. For example:
- Lining of heat-treated metal can be drilled using special drills.
- The protection of the stand of the deadbolt with a steel ball can be bypassed by drilling a hole at an angle to get into the base of the rack.
Now the market appeared high-strength drill. Tests of these drills took place in the laboratory of the factory "Locks and hardware" . Here is an illustrated example of drilling with such a drill.
Armor plate based on nickel-manganese alloy, thickness 2 mm.
1. Drilling with a high-strength drill for 2 seconds.
2. Drilling for 5 seconds. - through hole.
3. Drilling with a conventional drill bit DIN 338, drill bit "sits down".
Base plate of an Italian lock with a protection element against drilling from heat-treated steel with a thickness of 2 mm. Drilling with a high-strength drill for 5 seconds. - through hole.
Safety lock with protection against drilling from heat-treated steel plate with a thickness of 1.5 mm.
Safety lock with protection against drilling from heat-treated steel plate with a thickness of 1.5 mm. After drilling with a high strength drill for 4 seconds. - through hole.
Well, you have installed good steel doors and safe locks, and think that you can safely leave the apartment unattended? Do not rush to indulge yourself with the thought that thieves will not get to you. Consider several ways to penetrate the apartment, bypassing the front door.
Do you live on the first floor? Then you do not need the door, you can go through the window. The thief penetrates the window for a few seconds, without fear and without embarrassment. Because of the arrogance of criminals, everyone thinks that a person climbs to his home, forgetting the keys or breaking the lock.
If you live on the top floor, then you can jump from the roof to the balcony or go down the rope to the window sill and get through the window. At first glance, this seems complicated, but in reality it is nothing. And no one will see. How many people walk with their heads up?
There are several ways to break the glass silently. The simplest one, which was used for a long time - to put a wet newspaper on the glass and break the glass. The shards stick to the newspaper and do not crumble. Now they simply stick a self-adhesive film and squeeze out the glass. A few seconds of work and no noise.
On the second floor you can climb the lattice installed on the windows of the first floor, or, from the visor entrance. In my practice, there have been cases when thieves climbed to the second floors along the ladder, which they carried with them. It often happens that a thief, going down from the roof onto the balcony of the last floor, goes downstairs, hanging on the balcony (with a height of about 180 cm. With his feet, he will reach the railing of the lower floor). There are examples when thieves climbed up from the lower balcony, standing on the railing and reaching out to the upper balcony with their hands, but they need good physical training. The first floors are most loved by thieves, because even an unqualified thief can easily enter the apartment if there are no bars on the windows. It is enough to take a walk near the house in the evening, to see where the lights on the first floors do not burn and when it is completely dark, throw stones at the window in order to break both glass and immediately disappear. His accomplice from the side will look at the reaction of the neighbors, for whether the police will arrive and, if everything is calm, put the friend into the broken window. Conclusion - the lattice will add you some peace.
You do not live on the first and not on the top floors? Do not relax. If you have strong doors, then you can break the door of a neighboring apartment and move from your next balcony to your apartment, and there to the apartment. Climbing to a neighbor from the top floor, it is easy to go down to your balcony.
This method is applicable in block houses, where the garbage chute passes the stairs and there is a window to the street from the site, so from this window it is very easy (less than a meter) to go to the window-sill of your kitchen. And this can be done on any floor. In St. Petersburg, these houses are called "Ship" (because of the great length, more than 20 entrances). The method is very common.
Somewhat exotic way, but nevertheless, existing. Having penetrated into the neighbor's apartment, which is less fortified, pierce the wall into your apartment. I remember a case when thieves rented an apartment next to an antique collector and slowly prepared the wall for a break. As the victim later said: "I heard a noise, but I thought the neighbors were making repairs." The antiquarian left for an hour, the wall fell, and the thieves stole the most valuable collection.
From the basement you can break through the floor to the ground floor apartment.
From the attic of the house break through the ceilings of apartments on the upper floors.
In continuation to the first article about the methods of criminal opening of locks. In the previous article, the examples showed how to quickly and easily armor plates on the castles of famous companies using DIN 338 drills. Below I will tell you how to open almost any lock, using the examples of the well-known KALE, MOTTURA, CLASS, ELBOR locks.
The theory of preparation of hacking by drilling is as follows. Go to the store, buy the most common locks of the above companies. Next, install the lock on the door (say in the kitchen) and begin to study it. Having dealt with the mechanism of the lock, make a stencil (a simple tracing-paper will do), mark the points of fastening of the lock and the keyhole on it. Bind do to the keyhole, because it is always visible from the outside of the door. Next on the tracing paper mark the point where you need to drill a hole.
If it is a lock with a cylinder mechanism with one row of pins, then to unlock it you need to drill out the pins of the cylinder mechanism, below using the example of the KALE lock, you will see how this is done. Typically, this hole is below the keyhole (if the pins are located below). Enough drill diameter 5 mm. After the hole is drilled along the length of the cylinder mechanism, hook or clip through the keyhole, lower the pins, then insert any key (screwdriver) into the keyhole and unlock the lock. Elapsed time 1.5 minutes.
If it is a lock with a cylinder mechanism with three rows of pins, then it is enough to make one hole, lift the stopper and slide the bolts back. The stopper is in the depth of the cylinder mechanism, it is necessary to insert a similar key until it stops. Elapsed time - 1 minute.
If it is an overhead leveling lock . Drilling is performed with a conventional drill into the attachment point of the leveling stand to the deadbolt shank (this is marked on the template, put a template on the keyhole and drill). Drill out the rack and open the lock with a hook (just by moving the bolts) or key blank through the keyhole. The elapsed time is 3 minutes. Here is an example on the Class castle, but the same with the Elbor castle.
Not harder to cope with the lock Mottura. We drill a suvaldnaya rack in the place of attachment to the deadbolt of the bolt (at an angle, that is, we bypass the protection of the rack from drilling). The elapsed time is 5 minutes.
If, suppose, I publish templates for the most popular models of locks of the most well-known companies, then the child will also be able to open them, armed with a drill and a piece of steel wire. I am writing this all so that you understand that you can not completely trust the locks and doors. Install a security alarm and the time spent unlocking your door will increase.
I am often asked questions on how to make master keys, how to learn how to unlock locks with master keys. I will answer, why do it, they have been made for you a long time ago and started industrial production. All the master keys that you see in the photos are made industrially abroad. Their purpose is very diverse: they are for the police, and for rescuers, firefighters, etc. However, they are commercially available and anyone can buy them. Sets of master keys can be ordered via the Internet.
You see the master keys, which are used to unlock the locks with a cylinder mechanism, they are also called locks with a profile cylinder. These are the locks that are most easily unlocked, which is why I recommend starting training with these locks. Learning to use them is very simple, for this you only need to imagine how such a mechanism works. The principles of operation of different types of locks are very clearly presented on the website of the “Factory of locks and hardware”, where there are professionally made flash videos showing the operation of locks. Below, are photographs of single master keys and sets for unlocking locks with a cylinder mechanism with one row of pins.
The principle of unlocking is as follows. A “L” -shaped plate is inserted into the well for the key in the upper part (they are visible in the photographs) and is created with the help of its tightness (rotation) of the cylinder. But the cylinder does not turn, because spring pins interfere with it. Next, the master key is inserted into the keyhole and the pins are alternately lowered, while not loosening the tension. At the same time, at some of the points of inserting the pins, a small (fractions of millimeters) cranking of the cylinder mechanism will occur. Because of the error in drilling holes for pins, and it is always, even in the most expensive locks, one (or several) pins when lowering, "hang out", i.e. no longer interfere with the rotation of the cylinder, then, pressing the remaining pins in stages, lower them all onto the break line (the pins consist, as a rule, of three parts) and turn the cylinder one turn, then the operation is repeated again. You read this much longer than unlock the lock. Of course it is better to see once.
But this is already a mechanical "pistol" for unlocking locks with a cylinder mechanism; they can already unlock cylinders with two rows of pins. The principle of its work is the same. With a “G” -shaped plate, we preload the cylinder, insert a master key into the keyhole, which is fixed at the end of the “pistol” and, pressing the “trigger”, we strike the pins. When they fail, the cylinder turns. The “pistol” has an adjustment of the amplitude of movement of the master key, and you adjust the frequency of strikes by hand.
Well, this is electrical devices, the same as the mechanical "gun", but for the lazy - they work on batteries. But in fact, it is much better than the mechanical counterpart, since they allow one to finely manipulate the master key in the well for the key.
I myself used all these devices to unlock the locks. By the way, the training began only when a mechanical "gun" fell into my hands. After that, I had an interest in unlocking the lock in the old, "grandfather's" way. I will say this, I unlocked the locks only for entertainment and in the classroom with my experts and began to do it in a matter of seconds. True, I unlocked the old domestic locks (they did not differ in the accuracy of production), and the current Chinese (including APEX). Now think, for how many seconds will a thief open your door?
Yes, you will avoid the troubles of the party!
Two clips are taken, the first is completely unbent, and it folds in half. Then, one half of it bends several times, so that the bends form no more than an acute angle between them, as shown in Figure 1.
Then you need to determine which side the cylinders are located - scheme 2, and insert the manufactured master key all the way into the keyhole, the curved side to the cylinders and try to turn it clockwise with sharp but careful movements, trying not to bend it. If the attempt failed, repeat the whole action again, but so that the “pattern” of the master key being manufactured does not coincide with the previous one.
Some useful tips:
Always watch the cylinders from above or below, it usually depends on which direction to turn the master key. For example, if the cylinders are on top, as indicated in diagram 2, then the master key should be turned counterclockwise, and not vice versa. These types of locks are usually installed on office furniture (on drawers, closets, etc.). If the manufactured master key does not fit the lock you are currently opening, in no case do not throw it away. It may still be useful to you, it did not fit this castle, it would fit another one. For these purposes, I advise you to have a special wallet or something like that, where you will add the master keys you have made at your leisure (always carry this wallet with you, so just in case, there are different cases).
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