Lock Pick Lock Pick Guide
The concept that this method is based off is that of applying constant rotational pressure to the tumbler, so that as you pick one pin, it will stay in the unlocked position. All you have to do is simply go down the line of pins and push up on the one that is currently stuck. You will be able to tell by how much force it takes to lift a pin, which one to push up on next. Once a pin is picked, you will hear a clicking noise signaling for you to move to another pin. Be sure to keep constant rotational pressure on the lock, because if you don't, then the pins will spring back down and you will have to start over again.
Today, the most common way to break a cylinder lock is to break the cylinder mechanism in half. In the photo you see already the result of breaking the cylinder mechanism.
But the technique itself is as follows. A thief is looking for apartments with wooden doors and locks with a profile cylinder, as a rule, these are KALE, APEX, etc., available to everyone. How much they cost, they protect the apartment as much. Next, a decorative cover is unscrewed, covering the hole in the door, where the cylinder mechanism of the lock was inserted. If there is a space of 5 mm to the right and left of the cylinder, then this is enough to grab the protruding part of the cylinder with nippers or pliers and swing it to the right and left strongly. Everything, the cylinder broke in the central part and it needs to be pulled out of the lock. Now with any hook you can unlock the lock. In time it takes 2-3 minutes. If the door was made in good faith and the cylinder mechanism fits tightly into the door, then the hole is quickly expanded with a screwdriver or chisel, this is not difficult. It is a little more complicated if the door is metal, but it will also delay thieves for a little while.
Maybe someone will say, but where is the solution? He is. And know that dozens of people a day suffer from theft, only because of the dishonesty of manufacturers of locks and profile cylinders. The solution is very simple and well known. The photographs show without comment how to strengthen the cylinder mechanism of the lock. Simple, cheap and reliable. I do not think that a metal plate bent by the letter “P” with six holes will greatly increase the cost of the part. I just think that the manufacturers do not respect you and hold you for fools, and you all buy such locks, encouraging them to continue the production of obviously worthless products.
No matter how much they write so that they do not put Turkish castles, it still does not reach people. The forums discuss locks KALE, ORNEK, TURKEY, FAIN for a reason. They stand on the doors, they are sold and bought. What caused the demand? I think the following components: low price, red color of the castle box and shiny bolts. People like red and what glitters.
But seriously, I show in pictures how to hack any of the above models of locks. In the photographs there will be one of them - KALE, but the others are the same. I checked it myself.
In the first photograph, the appearance of the “beloved lock”, in the second, the easiest way to break into with a Phillips screwdriver, though the screwdriver should go deep enough into the key hole. Oddly enough, but this lock was really unlocked by this screwdriver without much effort, which surprised me a lot. I was getting ready for serious work. And so another lock was unlocked with such a “collar”.
You see, the “convolution” in the cross section is square, sharpened under the cone, it is convenient to insert it deeply into the key hole, breaking the handle is facilitated by a handle bent by 90 degrees, in addition, to increase the lever, you can insert a metal rod. But I was preparing very seriously. I still have two more wrappers made by special. to order, specifically for breaking locks with a cylinder mechanism with three rows of pins. The working part of these "coils" was thermally hardened. I began to look for a suitable castle. The Turks are all broken, but there is also a Russian-made KERBEROS lock, with a cylinder mechanism with three rows of pins, made in Italy.
I was immediately surprised that the lock was from a low price group, but it was made very soundly, massive crossbars made of heat-strengthened metal, 40 mm crossbars extend, the crossbar stand has protection against drilling, the design is simple and reliable. Well, I’ll break it, although it’s a little pity, the castle looks pretty good.
I inserted the key to another lock into the lock and tried to turn it with pliers, it didn’t work, I broke the key. The lock mechanism was not affected. He immediately set aside the Phillips screwdriver and decided to test the specially made “coils”. The test result you see for yourself.
I did not have a device for measuring the force with which I tried to crank the cylinder mechanism of the lock, but, believe me, the efforts were great. As a result of the tests, he broke both "coagulates."
This device did not justify itself either. In search of a reliable hacking tool, he took a tetrahedral file, sharpened the end under a cone on an emery, drove it into the hole for the key to failure, attached a lever to the file and turned it in the cylinder mechanism. However, the castle was not unlocked. After that, a study of the cylinder mechanism found that the file cut off the protruding corners and began to turn, but the pins were not touched, because recessed deep enough. The lock is still unlocked with a key. If there is a “disbeliever Thomas,” visit St. Petersburg, Primorsky Prospect, d.29, I installed this lock on one of the offices.
Even after all efforts, the castle was not unlocked. The cylinder mechanism of the lock, as you can see, was practically not affected, the outer protruding parts broke, but this did not affect the operation of the mechanism. For this lock, the hacking methods described above were powerless.
Conclusion: not all locks of this type are the same. I hope the manufacturers of the KERBEROS castle were not very offended that I put it to the test on a par with the Turkish.
The essence of the method is as follows. If you leave the key in the lock on the inside of the door (and, as practice shows, the majority does), then the key left in the lock can be easily taken using plasticine or similar material. And the next day, when you leave for your business, the thief will calmly open your door with a duplicate key. At the same time, the police who arrived at your call on the fact of a house theft, states that the lock is not damaged and is opened by “key selection”. Specialists know that it’s almost impossible to pick up the same (different) key to normally made level locks. The actual number of combinations of level locks of Cisa, Kerberos and some others exceeds 200 million options. Thus, it is impossible to bring a key car with you, and it’s very difficult to fit the key to the lock in place, although there is a method of “removing deformation prints”. This method is complex and not every thief is available in its complexity and duration. Of course, there are locks issued with violations of the technological modes of manufacturing, with increased gaps in the code groove between the tooth of the lever and the strut of the bolt. There are locks deliberately released with the same combination of keys on the keys due to the low level of technological equipment and the desire to reduce their costs at cost. It is not difficult to pick up a key to such locks. But the thieves, already in addition to the existing unlocking of the locks, have developed new ones that combine reconnaissance of the place of theft with the removal of the fingerprint from the key. So how do thieves open the castle without leaving marks on the castle?
For this method, clay, a little liquid oil, a metal plate about 10 cm long, about 0.5 mm thick, equal to the width of the key beard and for example a stationery awl are needed. I had a metal ruler at hand (see photo 1), which I modified on an emery to the desired size and, for lack of sewing, turned a part of the electrode.
Photo 1. A tool with which you can make an impression of a key left in the lock on the inside of the door.
The technique of taking impressions from the key left in the lock on the inside of the door:
- Plasticine must be rolled out on a metal plate to make a layer about 1-1.5 mm thick.
- Lubricate plasticine on top with oil so that it does not stick to the key beard.
- We look into the keyhole and see the key, acting (raising or lowering) with an awl through the keyhole on the right or left part of the key beard, slightly turn the key so that enough space is left on the left to push the plate with clay.
- We insert a plate with plasticine “smeared” on it inside the lock under (or above) the beard of the key.
- We remove the awl, the key returns to the horizontal position under the influence of the levers springs and the key beard is pressed to the plasticine, leaving its mark there.
- To get a good impression, you need to press the key with the awl again to the plasticine, acting on the right or left side of the key beard, as you prefer.
- After the beard of the key was pressed to the plasticine and the impression was obtained, the same procedure is repeated with respect to the second beard of the key.
And if we know a manufacturer who produces locks with a symmetrical combination, then one cast is enough, because the second half of the key beard is obtained automatically by direct or reverse symmetry. On the keys of the company Mottura, Secureme, Atra and others and their Russian counterparts Class, Gerion, Chiza Elbor, where the design of the code mechanism of 6 suvald with a double beard of the key is used, it is enough to take a cast once, since you always get one cast, it is easy to obtain the second one by the reverse symmetry. With a certain skill and training, taking a cast takes less than a minute.
Photo 2. The photograph shows the process of taking a mold from a key. In this experiment, you see the CERBER castle. It was he who specialized in caught thieves. When manipulating with your right hand with an awl or other thin solid object, with your left hand slip a plate with plasticine.
Photo 3. In the photo you see the received clear impression, according to which it is not difficult to make a key, having at hand the necessary key blank and file. This blank is easy to buy in any key workshop for a penny.
If the key is symmetric, in most of all locks, then it is enough to take the impression once from any half of the key beard, if the key is not symmetrical, then you will have to take the impression from two halves.
Photo 4. In the photo you see the process of taking a cast from the Mettham castle, where the non-symmetrical method of cutting combinations is used.
Photo 5. In the photo you see the received cast. Because the key is not symmetrical, it is necessary to take an impression from the other half of the key beard.
Photo 6. In the photo you see the process of taking a cast from the Class lock.
Photo 7. In the photo you see the received cast.
Photo 8. In the photo you see the process of taking a cast from the castle of Moyiga.
Photo 9. In the photo you see the received cast. Because the key is not symmetrical, it is necessary to take an impression from the other half of the key beard.
Photo 10. In the photo you see the process of taking a mold from the castle of Cisa Elbor.
Photo 11. In the photo you see the received cast.
Theoretically, in this way, you can take an impression from the key of any level lock with a through unprotected (not closed) key hole. Avoid thefts committed in this way easily. It’s enough not to leave the key in the lock at all. They came, closed the door, and ALWAYS remove the key from the lock. This little trick and knowledge will help you avoid big trouble. As I said: "Do not show the key to anyone, do not leave it unattended, do not leave the key in the lock."
Now I’ll talk about how to unlock the lever locks with the help of a “roll”. Collar (thieves slang) - a special device for breaking the locking device of the lock in order to move the crossbars in the unlocked position. I already wrote about the breakers for breaking the cylinder mechanism of the lock, and now the turn of level locks has come.
A huge number of lever locks, both domestic and imported, have appeared on our market. It is very difficult to figure out which of the locks yourself is very difficult if you are not an expert in this field. To save you from thieves and save your money when buying a castle, I write these lines.
In laboratory conditions, the following locks were tested: Cisa-Elbor, Class, Cerber, Mottura, Kerberos, Mettham and the Senate. But, in order not to load the article with illustrations, I broke it into two parts.
The experiment began with the fact that the turner Uncle Vasya, using a mat and a lathe, in just half an hour and a bottle of vodka, made a parcel based on the sketch. That's actually him (a covert, not Uncle Vasya).
The material from which the convolution is made is simple steel St.45. The thickness of the rod was chosen 8 mm. For durability. But if the core is “hardened” (heat strengthened), then the core can be made thinner, although, looking ahead, tests have shown that it has enough strength with a margin. The technique of ownership is as follows. The key hole is drilled with an 8 mm drill, then a drill hole is inserted into it and rotated with a wrench, if necessary, you can use the lever. In our case, we used a torque wrench to determine the force at which the lock is unlocked or broken.
The photos show the sequence of actions. Cisa-Elbor castle (article 1.06.61) was exposed to a bolt shank by a collar. With a force of 10 Nm, the crossbar strut broke at the attachment point. The lock is weakened by the one-sided arrangement of the suvald relative to the bolt shank and the fact that the bolt post is welded to the bolt shank. The next three turns occur effortlessly.
Castle Class. The picture is similar: with a force of 10 Nm, the crossbar rack at the attachment point (welding) broke and the lock was unlocked without effort. The drawbacks of the lock are the one-sided arrangement of the levers relative to the bolt shank and the fact that the bolt post is welded to the bolt shank.
Mottura Castle (article number 52.771). With a force of 10 Nm, the comb of the bolt shank was destroyed due to "weakening" holes. The castle remained locked. However, you will have to change the lock to a new one. There are no Mottura services in Russia; spare parts are not sold. Given the size of the Mottura castle, the Ministry of Emergency Situations “grinder” will open the entire door on an area of almost half a square meter, which will add to the owner’s expenses almost as much as with a normal theft. In general, a force of 10 Nm is not enough for the reliability of the lock, especially for that kind of money.
Kerberos Castle (article 111.11.011). For testing, five locks were taken, previous modifications and now available. All of them behaved with dignity. None of the locks was unlocked by a convolution. Although I "tormented" the castles mercilessly.
Originally closed the lock four turns. With a force of 56 Nm, the extreme tooth of the bolt shank comb was bent, see photo mark 1. The lock remained locked. Dismantled the castle. Suvalds practically did not suffer, this can be seen in the photo. The crossbar rack is reliably pressed in and not deformed. I decided to check, but what will happen if the lock is locked two turns of the key? He assembled the lock, inserted the convolution, turned. With a force of 42 Nm, the tooth of the bolt shank comb was deformed, see photo mark 2. The lock remained locked. The advantages of the lock are that the levers are located on both sides of the bolt shank, the crossbar is reliably pressed into the crossbar shank and is made of heat-strengthened metal.
From the tests you can see that they will reliably protect your apartment from a thief with a collar, only the Mottura and Kerberos castles. At the same time, the price of Kerberos is about 15-20 euros, and the cost of Mottura is more than 200 euros. Kerberos castle service in every city in Russia. Mottura is good, but in Italy. In the future, when opening the doors by rescuers of the Ministry of Emergencies and replacing the lock, the area of damage to the door in the case of the Kerberos castle is almost three times less than the area with the Mottura castle. Respectively three times less expenses for repair and replacement. At the same time, Kerberos is clearly (FIVE AND A HALF TIMES) superior to Mottura in the strength of counteracting the coagulation of the comb tooth (56 Nm for Kerjeros, against 10 Nm for Mottura).
To write this article, I was whipped up by a series of apartment thefts, where the locks were unlocked with the help of such a roll. Theft is not disclosed and the thief is still at large. Decide for yourself how to protect yourself from theft, using simple and easily accessible thieves' devices, known from time immemorial to all thieves. In the next article, I will explain the thieves' technique of unlocking level locks with the help of a wrapper using life examples.
If in the first part I clearly demonstrated that many level locks can be opened using a collar (“bears”, “a collar” as you prefer) in the laboratory, for educational purposes, so to speak, now I have taken life examples.
It is no coincidence that these are METTEM locks. The workmanship of the castle as a whole and its individual parts in particular, allowed thieves to easily penetrate into apartments with the help of a simple device - a convolution. Thieves’s technique is different from what I described in the first article. The thief does not drill a hole in the key hole, as This makes noise even if the drill is battery powered. A thief does it easier. It expands the key hole of the key with a mount, making it sufficient to insert a collar. And then he turns the convolution and opens the lock. All this takes about two minutes (checked experimentally).
Why is METTEM good for a thief? To everyone. Namely:
- the case (box) of the lock is made of thin steel, which allows you to easily expand the key hole.
- one-sided arrangement of suvald.
- weak fastening of a crossbar rack. By the way, I note that the crossbar is made of "raw" (sorry, critics for the term) steel, i.e. not heat strengthened.
But I will be honest and unbiased to the end. It was also so easy to unlock the lock because the key hole was round in the door, with a diameter larger than the width of the key hole in the lock. This is a big minus to the "door" (these are the people who make us the door). And this is a minus of not one separate office for the production of metal doors, it is rather the rule, since I have a “car” of locks opened in a similar way.
And so are the illustrations.
You see the METTEM lock article 3VSP-06. For particularly corrosive critics who write that I specifically break locks and scare people, I note that the number "1179" is visible in the upper left corner of the castle. This is the number of the examination carried out on this castle in the 25th department of the ECC GUVD of St. Petersburg. I made this inscription so as not to mix up the locks (and there are a lot of them).
An enlarged image of the key hole. The hole is expanded enough to insert a convolution.
After removing the lid of the lock box, it is clear that the crossbar strut is broken at the attachment point. Red arrows and numbers indicate:
1 - a broken stand of the crossbar.
2 - hole for the crossbar.
There is a thick grease in the castle, however, one leopard is already covered with a thick layer of rust (top right in the photo).
An enlarged image of a fragment of the previous photo. The bolt shank comb did not suffer.
And this is a well for the key of another METTEM lock article 3VSP-2T 3SCHZD. The picture is similar to the previous one.
A more complicated design of the lock, but the result is the same. Mark 1 - the crossbar post, mark 2 - the place of fastening of the crossbar strut.
An enlarged image of a fragment of the previous photo. The bent comb of a crossbar of a crossbar is marked in red.
For spiteful critics, I’ll say that I don’t teach thieves to “open” locks, they can do it themselves. And telling and showing the methods of criminal unlocking and breaking locks, I teach honest citizens how to protect themselves. If at least one person, having read my articles, thinks about the security of his apartment and puts a good lock on a reliable door and rents the apartment under the protection of the Private Security Agency or a similar private security company, he will save his nerves and money, and the police will have less work and I have not spent in vain your personal money and time. I regard these articles as the prevention of offenses, in particular apartment thefts.
I bring to your attention several examples of criminal "opening" of locks. One of the simplest methods is to drill the pins of the cylinder mechanism or the strut of the bolt shank in the level locks. Casting factories take measures against this, such as:
- Lining on the cylinder mechanism made of heat-strengthened metal (for example, ABLOY locks).
- Shank of the bolt of heat-strengthened metal.
- Insert a steel ball into the end of the bolt shank in order to take the drill to the side.
- The mounting plates of locks are made of heat-strengthened metal.
However, there are ways to get around protection. For example:
- Heat-strengthened metal pads can be drilled using special drills.
- The protection of the bolt shank post with the steel ball can be circumvented by drilling a hole at an angle to get into the base of the post.
High-strength drills have now appeared on the market. Testing of these drills took place in the laboratory of the factory "Key Hardware" . Here is an illustrated example of drilling with such a drill.
Armor plate based on nickel-manganese alloy, thickness 2 mm.
1. Drilling with a high-strength drill for 2 seconds.
2. Drilling for 5 seconds. - through hole.
3. Drilling with standard drill DIN 338, the drill "sits".
Mounting plate of an Italian lock with a protection element from drilling from heat-strengthened steel 2 mm thick. Drilling with a high-strength drill for 5 seconds. - through hole.
Safe lock with protection against drilling from a heat-strengthened steel plate 1.5 mm thick.
Safe lock with protection against drilling from a heat-strengthened steel plate 1.5 mm thick. After drilling with a high-strength drill for 4 seconds. - through hole.
Well, you installed good steel doors and reliable locks, and you think that you can safely leave the apartment unattended? Do not rush to amuse yourself with the thought that thieves will not get to you. Consider several ways to enter the apartment, bypassing the front door.
Do you live on the ground floor? Then you do not need doors, you can go through the window. The thief enters the window in a few seconds, without fear or embarrassment. Because of the impudence of criminals, everyone thinks that a person crawls to his home, forgetting the keys or breaking the lock.
If you live on the top floor, then you can jump from the roof to the balcony or go down the rope to the windowsill and get through the window. This at first glance seems complicated, but in fact - a trifle. And no one will see. How many people walk upside down?
There are several ways to break glass silently. The simplest one that has been used since ancient times is to stick a wet newspaper on the glass and break the glass. The fragments stick to the newspaper and do not crumble. Now just stick a self-adhesive film and squeeze the glass. A few seconds of work and no noise.
On the second floor you can climb on the grill installed on the windows of the first floor, or from the visor. In my practice, there have been cases when thieves climbed to the second floor along the ladder they carried with them. It often happens that a thief, descending from the roof to the balcony of the last floor, goes down, hanging on the balcony (with an increase of about 180 cm, his feet just reach the railing of the lower floor). There are examples when thieves climbed up from the lower balcony, standing on the railing and reaching with their hands to the upper balcony, but good physical preparation is already needed. The first floors are most loved by thieves, because even an unskilled thief can easily get into the apartment if there are no bars on the windows. It is enough to take a walk near the house in the evening, see where the lights are off on the first floors and when it gets completely dark, throw a stone at the window to break both windows and immediately disappear. His accomplice from the side will look at the reaction of the neighbors, then - will the police come and, if everything is calm, put the friend in the broken window. Conclusion - the lattice will add you a share of peace.
Do you live not on the first and not on the last floors? Do not relax. If you have strong doors, you can break the door of a neighboring apartment and from your next balcony move to yours, and then to your apartment. Climbing to a neighbor from the top floor, it is easy to go down to your balcony.
This method is applicable in block houses where the garbage chute runs up the stairs and there is a window onto the street from the site, and so, from this window it is very easy (less than a meter) to go to the windowsill of your kitchen. And this can be done on any floor. In St. Petersburg, these houses are called the "Ship" (due to the long length, more than 20 entrances). The method is very common.
Somewhat exotic way, but nonetheless, existing. Having penetrated into the neighboring apartment, less fortified, they break through the wall into your apartment. In my memory, the case when thieves rented an apartment next to an antique collector and slowly prepared the wall for a break. As the victim later said: "I heard a noise, but I thought the neighbors were doing the repair." The antiquarian went away for an hour, the wall fell, and the thieves stole a valuable collection.
From the basement you can break the floor into the apartment of the first floor.
From the attic of the house break the ceilings of apartments on the upper floors.
In continuation to the first article on methods of criminal opening of locks. In a previous article, it was shown by examples how to easily and quickly drill armor plates on the locks of famous companies with the help of DIN 338 drills. Below I will tell you how to open almost any lock, using the examples of KALE, MOTTURA, CLASS, ELBOR locks known to everyone.
The theory of drilling hack training is as follows. Go to the store, buy the most common locks of the above firms. Next, install the lock on the door (say in the kitchen) and begin to study it. Having dealt with the lock mechanism, make a stencil (a simple tracing paper will do), mark the points of attachment of the castle and the keyhole on it. The binding is done to the keyhole, because it is always visible from the outside of the door. Next on the tracing paper mark the point where you need to drill a hole.
If this is a lock with a cylinder mechanism with one row of pins, then to unlock it you need to drill the pins of the cylinder mechanism, below using the KALE lock as an example, you will see how this is done. Typically, this hole is below the keyhole (if the pins are located below). Enough drills with a diameter of 5 mm. After the hole is drilled along the length of the cylinder mechanism, hook or clip, through the keyhole, lower the pins, then insert any key (screwdriver) into the keyhole and unlock the lock. The time spent is 1.5 minutes.
If this is a lock with a cylinder mechanism with three rows of pins, then it is enough to make one hole, raise the stopper and pull the hook off the hook. The stop is located in the depth of the cylinder mechanism, it is necessary to insert a similar key all the way. The time spent is 1 minute.
If it’s an overlaid level lock . Drilling is carried out with a conventional drill at the attachment point of the leveling stand to the bolt shank (this place is marked on the template, put the template on the keyhole and drill). Drill the stand and open the lock with a hook (just shifting the crossbars) or with a key blank through the keyhole. The time spent is 3 minutes. Here's an example with Class lock, but the same with Elbor lock.
It’s no harder to handle the Mottura Castle. We drill a leveling stand in the place of attachment to the bolt shank (at an angle, i.e., bypass the protection of the rack from drilling). The time spent is 5 minutes.
If, suppose, I publish templates for the most popular models of locks of the most famous companies, then a child can open them, armed with a drill and a piece of steel wire. I am writing this all so that you understand that you cannot completely trust locks and doors. Set a burglar alarm and the time taken to unlock your door will increase.
I am often asked questions how to make master keys, how to learn to unlock locks with master keys. I will answer why to do it, for you they have been made for a long time and established industrial production. All the master keys that you see in the photographs are manufactured abroad in an industrial way. Their purpose is very diverse: they are for the police, and for rescuers, firefighters, etc. However, they are commercially available and everyone can buy them. Lockpick sets can also be ordered online.
You see the master keys that are used to unlock locks with a cylinder mechanism, they are also called locks with a profile cylinder. These are the locks that can be unlocked most easily, which is why I recommend starting training with these locks. Learning to use them is very simple, for this you just need to imagine how such a mechanism works. The principles of operation of various types of locks are very clearly presented on the site of the "Factory of lock and hardware" where there are professionally made flash clips showing the operation of the locks. Below are photographs of single master keys and sets for unlocking locks with a cylinder mechanism with one row of pins.
The unlocking principle is as follows. A “G” -shaped plate (they are visible in the photographs) is inserted into the top hole in the key hole and created using its tightness (rotation) of the cylinder. But the cylinder does not turn, because it is interrupted by spring-loaded pins. Next, the master key is inserted into the keyhole and the pins are alternately lowered, without loosening the interference. At the same time, at one of the moments when the pins are recessed, a small (fraction of millimeters) rotation of the cylinder mechanism will occur. Due to an error in drilling holes for pins, and it is always there, even in the most expensive locks, one (or several) pins when lowering are "hung up", i.e. no longer interfere with the rotation of the cylinder, then, clicking on the remaining pins in stages, lower them all to the line of break (the pins consist, as a rule, of three parts) and rotate the cylinder one revolution, then the operation is repeated again. You read it much longer than unlocking the castle. Of course it is better to see once.
But this is a mechanical “gun” for unlocking locks with a cylinder mechanism, they can already unlock the cylinders with two rows of pins. The principle of his work is the same. With a “G” -shaped plate, we tighten the cylinder, insert the master key in the key hole, which is fixed at the end of the “gun” and, by pressing the “trigger”, we hit the pins. When they fail, the cylinder rotates. "Pistol" has an adjustment of the amplitude of the master key, and the frequency of blows is regulated by hand.
Well, these are electric devices, the same thing as a mechanical “gun”, but for the lazy they work on batteries. But in fact, it is much better than a mechanical analogue, because it allows you to subtly manipulate the master key in the well for the key.
I myself used all these devices to unlock the locks. By the way, the training began only when a mechanical "gun" fell into my hands. After that, I became interested in unlocking the castle in the old, "grandfather" way. I will say this, I unlocked the locks just for fun and in the classroom with my experts and began to do it in a matter of seconds. True, I unlocked the old domestic locks (they did not differ in the accuracy of production), but the current Chinese ones (including APEX). Well, now think, in how many seconds the thief will open your door?
Let troubles pass you by!
two staples are taken, the first is completely unbent, and folded in half. After which, one half of it bends several times, so that the bends do not form between themselves more than an acute angle, as shown in diagram 1.
Then you need to determine on which side the cylinders are located - Scheme 2, and insert the master key made into the keyhole all the way, with the curved side to the cylinders and try to turn it clockwise with sharp but accurate movements, trying not to bend. If the attempt failed, repeat the whole action again, but so that the "pattern" of the master key being manufactured does not match the previous one.
Some useful tips:
Always follow the top or bottom are the cylinders, this usually depends in which direction to turn the master key. For example, if the cylinders are on top, as indicated in diagram 2, then the master key must be turned counterclockwise, and not vice versa. This type of locks is usually installed on office furniture (on drawers, cabinets, etc.). If the master key you made does not fit the lock you are currently opening, do not in any case throw it away. It may still come in handy for you, it hasn’t come to this castle, it’s suitable for another. For these purposes, I advise you to get a special wallet or something like that where you will put the master keys you made at your leisure (always carry this wallet with you, so, just in case, there are different cases).
Materials taken from books, magazines, other sources, purchased in e-shops, received by exchange. Provided by "AS IS" ("AS IS"); check the performance of each is not possible. The site www.shram.kiev.ua works more like a paid search engine for interesting materials.
There are no materials on sale containing warnings about the prohibition of its distribution (paid or free). If you notice copyright infringement (sale of material for free distribution and sale of which its author did not give permission) - inform, the material will be removed.