The catalyst emulator SK-02, SK-02a, SK-03, SK-06
- ECOTUNING KIT
- Magnetic Activator
- Fuel Activator
- Water injection (ECOMAX)
- V-Tech box
- Antikor AKOR
- Ecotuning Oil
- Efficiency plus
- FFI MPG Additives
- Nulevik Filters (K & N)
- Lambda probe emulator
- Diesel particulate filter emulator
- Emulator lambda probe and MAF
- A PHOTO
- BUY & CONTACT
The emulator is designed to process the signal from the lambda probe according to the algorithm of the working catalyst.
The input of the ECU (electronic control unit) is fed to the already processed signal in the form in which it was when the catalyst was intact.
Thus, the ECU considers the catalyst intact.
What gives this device:
- By reducing the resistance to exhaust gases, fuel consumption is reduced, saving up to 10%;
- power increase;
- the engine malfunction lamp (check) will not disturb you anymore, the engine is operating normally;
- You do not need a catalyst, therefore, it will never fail.
Why an emulator?
The emulator will permanently forget about the existence of an expensive catalyst, the cost of which is more than 1000 euros.
To do this, you just need to carry out not difficult work on the knockout or removal of the catalyst and install the catalyst operation emulator.
Why does the catalyst fail?
The catalyst is a device with small holes inside, in the exhaust system, which burns out a part of the unburned fuel.
The main reason for the failure of the catalyst in the CIS is the low quality of gasoline. Low-quality gasoline burns slowly, so the explosion occurs half in the combustion chamber, and half in the exhaust, above the surface of the catalyst. The catalyst is a ceramic structure with very thin and delicate walls, similar to a honeycomb, and in the case of gas detonation above its surface, it begins to collapse (crumble). Over time, he slaughters himself and creates a barrier for hot exhaust gases, as a result of which the engine loses traction and overheats. But this is not the worst. As mentioned above, there is a barrier to the free exit of gases, therefore the pressure of gases in the area between the engine and the catalyst increases significantly. Every time the engine is jammed, it stops in such a way that the valve timing system in some cylinder is open in any case. Excess pressure instead of simply flying into the pipe, tears ceramic particles from the catalyst surface and throws them through the open valves back into the engine, onto the surface of the piston directly into the combustion chamber. The next time you start the engine, ceramic dust is mixed with oil on the walls of the cylinders, turning into a highly abrasive paste. In this case, an irreversible event can occur - complete wear of all rubbing parts of the engine and complete failure of the unit as a whole. It is very important to diagnose the catalyst in time at the initial stages of destruction, and not to wait until the engine electronics malfunction light comes on. It is better and cheaper to resolve the issue immediately, not bringing the situation to a critical one. Due to the fact that the resistance to exhaust is created, the exhaust system is heated to red, in some cases it can lead to fire.
Causes of failure of the catalyst:
- Additives to Petrol
- Poor fuel quality
- Incorrect fuel / air mixture (usually a failure of the lambda probe)
- Incorrect operation of the ignition system (misfire)
- Mechanical damage to the catalyst
- Natural aging (in normal use - service life up to 100,000 km)
Melted, hammered catalyst (Above is a new comparison)
How to determine if the catalyst is clogged
1. Unscrew the oxygen sensor, screw in the pressure gauge, and measure the pressure in the exhaust system. If the pressure exceeds 0.5 atm (Kg / cm2) in any of the operating modes of the motor, the catalytic converter is clogged.
2. Warm up the motor well (driving around the city-highway) for half an hour, then take a thermo-pistol (pyrometer) and check the temperature before the catalyst (right at the weld seam) and immediately after the catalyst (also at the place of welding of the pipe and the catalyst). If the temperature after the catalyst is lower or the same as before the catalyst, then the catalytic converter is blocked or not working.
3. If inside the catalyst something rings, do not waste time, urgently take action.
Procedure for replacing (or knocking out) a catalyst with an emulator
1. Remove the catalyst;
2. Knock out its contents with scrap;
3. Send (not for free) the insides of the catalyst to us;
4. Instead of a catalyst, it is better to install a flame arrester. If you install an empty case from the catalyst, the exhaust sound is likely to become louder;
5. Produced according to the diagram in the figure after the removal of the catalyst. The emulator connects to the 2nd lambda, which is located behind the catalyst. The emulator is powered from the heating circuit of the lambda probe or the ignition coil via the red wire (power should be supplied only when the ignition is on).
The yellow and blue wires are connected to the break of the lambda signal wire. The voltage on this wire is in the range from 0.1 to 1 Volt.
In order for you to get positive results from emulators in 100% of cases, we have divided emulators into 2 categories according to the type of car.
Catalyst emulator SK-02 is desirable to install on cars: Audi, Volkswagen, Hyundai, Subaru, Miitsubishi, Plemouth-Neon, Pontiac, Mazda, Infiniti, Skoda, Volvo, UAZ Patriot, Honda until 2005, Kia until 2005, Opel until 2005, Toyota until 2003, SAAB until 2005, Lexus until 2004, Mercedes Benz until 2005, BMW until 2004.
The catalyst emulator SK-06 is installed on all other cars.
Warranty 1 year from the date of sale.
Test period 14 days.