Catalyst emulator SK-02, SK-02a, SK-03, SK-06
- ECOTUNING KIT
- Magnetic Activator
- Fuel Activator
- Water injection (ECOMAX)
- V-tech box
- Antikor AKOR
- Ecotuning Oil
- Efficiency plus
- FFI MPG Supplements
- Null Filters (K&N)
- Lambda probe emulator
- Diesel particulate filter emulator
- Emulator lambda probe and MAF
- A PHOTO
- BUY & CONTACT
The emulator is designed to process the signal from the lambda probe according to the algorithm of the working catalyst.
An already processed signal in the form in which it was with a working catalyst was supplied to the input of the computer (electronic control unit).
Thus, the ECU considers the catalyst serviceable.
What does this device give:
- By reducing the resistance to exhaust gases, fuel consumption is reduced, saving up to 10%;
- power increase;
- the engine malfunction lamp (check) will no longer bother you, the engine is operating in normal mode;
- You do not need a catalyst, therefore, it will never fail.
Why exactly an emulator?
The emulator will allow you to forget about the existence of an expensive catalyst, the cost of which is more than 1000 euros.
To do this, you just need to carry out not difficult work to knock out or remove the catalyst and install an emulator of the catalyst.
Why does the catalyst fail?
The catalyst is a device with small holes inside, in the exhaust system, which burns out part of the unburned fuel.
The main reason for the failure of the catalyst in the CIS is the low quality of gasoline. Low-quality gasoline burns slowly, so the explosion occurs half in the combustion chamber and half in the exhaust, above the surface of the catalyst. The catalyst is a ceramic structure with very thin and delicate walls, similar to a honeycomb and in the case of gasoline detonation above its surface, it begins to collapse (crumble). Over time, it clogs itself and creates a barrier to red-hot exhaust gases, as a result of which the engine loses traction and overheats. But this is not the worst. As mentioned above, there is a barrier to the free exit of gases, therefore the gas pressure in the area between the engine and the catalyst increases significantly. Each time the engine is shut off, it stops in such a way that the valve timing system in some cylinder is in any case open. Excess pressure, instead of just flying out into the pipe, breaks off ceramic particles from the surface of the catalyst and throws them through open valves back into the engine, onto the surface of the piston directly into the combustion chamber. The next time you start the engine, ceramic dust mixes with the oil on the cylinder walls, turning into a highly abrasive paste. In this case, irreversible can happen - complete wear of all rubbing parts of the engine and complete failure of the unit as a whole. It is very important to diagnose the catalyst in the initial stages of destruction in time, and not wait until the engine electronics malfunction light comes on. It is better and cheaper to resolve the issue immediately, without bringing the situation to critical. Due to the fact that it creates resistance to the exhaust, the exhaust system is heated up to red, in some cases this can lead to fire.
Reasons for catalyst failure:
- Adding additives to gasoline
- Poor fuel quality
- Incorrect fuel-air mixture (usually a failure of the lambda probe)
- Malfunction of the ignition system (misfire)
- Catalyst mechanical damage
- Natural aging (during normal use - service life up to 100,000 km)
Fused, clogged catalyst (Above is a new one for comparison)
How to determine if a catalyst is clogged
1. Unscrew the oxygen sensor, screw in the pressure gauge, and measure the pressure in the exhaust system. If the pressure exceeds 0.5 atm (Kg / cm2) at any of the engine operating modes, the catalytic converter is clogged.
2. Warm up the engine well (driving along a city-highway) for half an hour, then take a thermo-gun (pyrometer) and check the temperature in front of the catalyst (directly on the weld seam) and immediately after the catalyst (also at the place of welding of the pipe and the wire rope). If the temperature after the catalyst is lower or the same as that before the catalytic converter, then the catalytically converter is clogged or does not work.
3. If something rings inside the catalyst, do not waste time, immediately take action.
The procedure for replacing (or knocking out) the catalyst with an emulator
1. Remove the catalyst;
2. Knock out its contents with a crowbar;
3. Send (not free) the inside of the catalyst to us;
4. Instead of a catalyst, it is better to install a flame arrester. If you install an empty catalyst housing, the exhaust sound will likely become louder;
5. It is produced according to the diagram in the figure after removal of the catalyst. The emulator is connected to the 2nd lambda, which is located behind the catalyst. The emulator is powered from the heating circuit of the lambda probe or ignition coil through the red wire (power should be supplied only with the ignition on).
The yellow and blue wires plug into the lambda signal wire break. The voltage on this wire is in the range from 0.1 to 1 Volt.
In order for you to get positive results from emulators in 100% of cases, we divided emulators into 2 categories by type of car.
It is desirable to install the SK-02 catalyst emulator on cars: Audi, Volkswagen, Hyundai, Subaru, Miitsubishi, Plemouth-Neon, Pontiac, Mazda, Infiniti, Skoda, Volvo, UAZ Patriot, Honda until 2005, Kia until 2005, Opel until 2005, Toyota until 2003, SAAB until 2005, Lexus until 2004, Mercedes Benz until 2005, BMW until 2004.
The SK-06 catalyst emulator is installed on all other cars.
Warranty 1 year from the date of sale.
The test period is 14 days.