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Manufacturing technology special

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Asphalt varnish

Here are some recipes for this varnish.

I. Melt 1 share of asphalt, allow to cool, grind, add 2 parts of turpentine and dissolve. Soot is added if desired.

Ii. Take 3 elements of asphalt, 1 part of the coal tar (solid residue during the distillation of coal tar), dissolved, with lightweight heating, in 6 parts of turpentine.

Iii. They take 250 elements of asphalt, 475 elements of flax linseed oil, 120 rosin elements, 180 parts of turpentine. This varnish is especially suitable for tin.

Iv. Take 6 elements of asphalt, 1 share of boiled linseed oil, 8.5 elements of turpentine. This varnish is especially suitable for iron.

V. Take 20 elements of asphalt, 5 elements of rosin, 2 elements of soot, 50 elements of kerosene.

Vi. Take 1 share of asphalt, 1 share of rosin, 8 parts of turpentine.

Water albumin varnish

Mix equal weight elements of water and egg white; a little carbolic or salicylic acid is added for storage. Instead of fresh egg white, 28.5 parts of dry albumin can be dissolved in 564 parts of water. Varnish when drying alienates benign gloss. When drying items coated with this varnish, in a hot atmosphere they form an indelible water coating.

Water glaze varnish

Mix equal weight elements of water and egg white (or albumin). In order that albumin does not decompose, a little formalin or salicylic acid is added. Varnish when drying gives a good gloss. When drying items coated with this varnish, in the hot air they form an indelible water coating.

Water gelatin varnish

Take 1 share of gelatin is also dissolved in 22 parts of water and 28.5 parts of potassium dichromate are added before use. This mixture serves as a primer for leather varnishes. For storage add a little borax.

Water adhesive varnish

1 part of wood glue or gelatin is dissolved in 22 parts of water, 28.5 parts of potassium dichromate are also added before use. This hodgepodge can serve as a primer for many leather varnishes. For the chosen preservation add a bit of borax to the varnish

Kaiser water shellac lacquer

They take 1 share of borax, 3 elements of crushed snow-white shellac and 20 elements of water, heated in a water bath until filled with dissolution, after a few hours allow to cool, filtered. Adding to the varnish a small amount of glycerin acts its elastic. This varnish can be painted with any aniline paint or a mixture of several paints.

Waterproof varnish

Iron sulfate is dissolved in water, the soap solution is added, and the resulting precipitate of iron soap is also filtered off. If this sludge is dried and dissolved in carbon disulfide or benzene, then a lacquer is obtained, leaving a waterproof layer on the fabrics also on paper.

If it is desirable to own a colorless varnish, then a solution of alum is taken instead of ferrous sulfate and alumina (aluminum) soap is obtained.

There is another means: the fabric is impregnated with a saturated aqueous solution of alum, dried and also stretched. Then the stretched fabric is smeared on both sides with a hot, strong solution of ordinary soap, due to which a film of alumina soap is formed on the fabric. After that, the fabric is washed, dried, and also rolled between the rollers. It acquires shine, water resistance is also partly fire resistant.

Tar lacquer

The tar is heated in the boiler up to 70 ° C and is also mixed with an equal number of hydraulic lime or Portland cement. The liquid mass after cooling is made soft, elastic. This varnish is especially suitable for coating wooden parts that are under water, for water pipes as well, etc., since this cover is in no way destroyed by the action of water or the atmosphere.

Dreyer Casein Varnish

The lacquer invented by Dreher has a remarkably beautiful bright yellow color of cadmium, which is manufactured as follows: 10 elements of casein powder in 100 parts of water are insisted, to which 1-1.5 parts of ammonia (ammonia) are added at 40 ° C. Then prepare a solution of aureolin, diluting 5 parts of this paint in 1000 parts of water at 60 ° C. After that, 300 elements of finely ground kaolin are broken up with 20 parts of tepid water, also 80 parts of casein solution, and the resulting batter is mixed with 100 parts of aureoline solution; then dropwise add there about 2 parts of a solution of tin tetrachloride (10 parts of salt per 1000 elements of water). In this case, the lacquer cools also suitable for use after drying at 60 ° C.

Similarly, casein varnishes can be prepared with the addition of any aniline dye, and instead of tin tetrachloride you can consume aluminum chloride, aluminum acetate, tin acetate, and the like.

All casein varnishes are distinguished by their durability and remarkably beautiful shades of colors. It can be expected that they will find wide application in lithography, wallpaper printing and other similar industries.

Castor Varnish

When dry distillation of castor oil is obtained rubbery residue, which, being dissolved in hydrocarbons (gasoline) or in alcohol, is an excellent, impermeable, resistant to sunlight, very durable varnish.

The bristles smeared with this varnish, a cloth also, etc. made watertight. By mixing varnish with earth or metal oxides, a very durable putty is obtained.

Chinese lacquer

3 elements of bovine blood (defibrated) are taken, mixed with 4 parts of hydrated lime (calcium oxide hydrate) and a small amount of alum is also added. The resulting liquid pasty mass can be immediately used as if a varnish. Objects (folders, straw items, etc.) covered with this mixture become waterproof.

Copal oil varnish

They take 100 weight elements of good linseed oil, boil it in the boiler with gradual heating. At what time bubbles start to appear, you need to maintain a smooth fire so that the oil boils slightly. Immediately, 15 weight parts of the East Indian copal are melted on the water steam room and also bring it to a boil. At what time bubbles will start to appear in the melted copal, you should immediately pour hot linseed oil in parts into the resin, stirring all the time. When all the resin is well connected with part of the oil, it is poured, with constant stirring, into the oil, boiling in an impressive pot. Then, one weight portion of manganese borate is poured into a large pot. They also continue cooking for about 2 hours, removing the foam that forms during this, until the lacquer becomes viscous in any way and slowly flows with transparent, golden threads. If you drop the varnish on the glass, then the drop should be high in the form of a hemisphere. When cooled, the drop should be a sort of viscous syrup stretching into the fibers. These are signs that the oil has been combined with the resin. After that, extinguish the flame under a large boiler also allow the mixture to gradually cool down to 60 ° C. Then, 70 parts by weight of turpentine are poured in parts, making a sample after each additive, does the cooled drop keep the consistency of a viscous syrup. If the viscosity of the varnish is noticeably reduced, then the addition of turpentine should be discontinued as well.

A good varnish is forced to be golden in color, to lie smoothly on the surface to be painted, to dry after 6-8 hours. For painted surfaces, in which place the yellowish tint does not matter, this varnish can be computed as excellent.

Japanese lacquer

They take 45 elements of turpentine and 60 elements of lavender oil, dehydrate it with calcium chloride, separate the liquid from the sediment, dissolve in it 1 part of camphor with 15 parts of copal resin when heated, filter.