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The technology of manufacturing special

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Asphalt varnish

Here are a few recipes for this varnish.

I. Melting 1 part of the asphalt, allow to cool, crush, add 2 parts of turpentine, also dissolve. The soot is added as desired.

II. Take 3 elements of asphalt, 1 part of coal tar (solid residue in the distillation of coal tar), dissolve, with light heating, in 6 parts of turpentine.

III. They take 250 elements of asphalt, 475 elements of linseed oil, 120 elements of rosin, 180 parts of turpentine. This varnish is especially suitable for tin.

IV. Take 6 elements of asphalt, 1 share of cooked linseed oil, 8.5 elements of turpentine. This varnish is especially suitable for iron.

V. Take 20 elements of asphalt, 5 elements of rosin, 2 elements of soot, 50 elements of kerosene.

VI. Take 1 share of asphalt, 1 share of rosin, 8 parts of turpentine.

Aqueous albumin varnish

Mix equal weight elements of water and egg white; for storage add a little carbolic or salicylic acid. Instead of fresh egg white, 28.5 parts of dry albumin can be dissolved in 564 parts of water. Lacquer when dry leaves a benign gloss. When drying items covered with this varnish, in a hot atmosphere, a water-repellent coating is formed on them.

Water-based glaze varnish

Mix equal weight elements of water as well as egg albumen (or albumin). To ensure that albumin does not decompose, add a little formalin or salicylic acid. The varnish when dried gives a benign gloss. When drying items covered with this varnish, in hot air they form a water-washable coating.

Water gelatinous lacquer

Take 1 part of gelatin is also dissolved in 22 parts of water also before use add 28.5 parts of potassium dichromate. This mixture serves as a primer for leather varnishes. A bit of borax is added for storage.

Water-based glue varnish

1 part of the carpentry glue or gelatin is dissolved in 22 parts of water also before use add 28.5 parts of potassium dichromate. This mishmash can serve as a primer for many leather varnishes. For the selected preservation add a bit of borax to the varnish.

Water shellac varnish for Kaiser

Take 1 share of borax, 3 elements of crushed snow-white shellac also 20 elements of water, heated in a water bath until the solution is filled, after several hours allow to cool, filter. Adding a small amount of glycerin to the varnish acts as its elastic. This varnish can be painted with any aniline paint or a mixture of several colors.

Waterproof lacquer

Dissolve iron vitriol in water, add soap solution, and filter the resulting precipitate of ferruginous soap. If this sludge is dried and dissolved in carbon disulphide or benzene, then a varnish is obtained, leaving a waterproof layer on the tissues also on paper.

If it is desirable to own a colorless varnish, then take an alum solution instead of iron sulfate and obtain an alumina (aluminum) soap.

There is another means: the fabric is saturated with a saturated aqueous solution of alum, the dried is also stretched. Then the stretched fabric is greased on both sides with a hot strong mortar of ordinary soap, because of which a film of alumina soap is formed on the fabric. After that, the fabric is washed, dried and rolled between the rollers. It acquires radiance, water resistance is also partly fireproof.

Tar Lacquer

The tar is heated in a boiler up to 70 ° C and mixed with an equal number of hydraulic lime or Portland cement. Liquid mass after cooling becomes soft, elastic. This varnish is especially suitable for coating wooden parts under water for water pipes, etc., since this cover does not break down from the action of water and the atmosphere.

Casein varnish Dreira

Remarkably beautiful bright yellow cadmium is invented by Dreier lacquer, manufactured as follows: 10 elements of casein powder are infused in 100 parts of water, to which 1 - 1.5 parts of ammonia (ammonia) at 40 ° C is added. Then, prepare a solution of aureolin, diluting 5 parts of this paint in 1000 parts of water at 60 ° C. After that, 300 elements of finely ground kaolin are blended with 20 parts of lukewarm water and 80 parts of a casein solution, and the resulting batter is mixed with 100 parts of aureolin solution; then, dropwise, 2 parts of a solution of tin tetrochloride (10 parts of salt per 1000 water elements) are added thereto. In this case, the varnish is also suitable for use after drying at 60 ° C.

Similarly, it is possible to prepare casein varnishes with the addition of any aniline dye, and instead of tin tetrochloride, you can consume chloride, aluminum acetate, acetic acid tin, etc.

All casein varnishes are distinguished by their resistance to also remarkably beautiful shades of flowers. We can expect that they will find wide application in lithography, printing of wallpapers and other similar manufactures.

Castor varnish

In the dry distillation of castor oil, a rubbery residue is obtained which, when dissolved in hydrocarbons (gasoline) or in alcohol, is an excellent, moisture-resistant, resistant to sunlight, a very strong lacquer.

Bristles smeared with this varnish, cloth, etc. become impermeable to water. When mixing varnish with earth or metal oxide, a very strong putty is obtained.

Chinese lacquer

Take 3 elements of bovine blood (defibrinated), mix with 4 parts of hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) also add a small amount of alum. The resulting liquid pulp-like mass can be immediately used as a lacquer. Items (folders, straw things, etc.), covered with this mixture, become waterproof.

Copal Oil Lacquer

Take 100 weight elements of good linseed oil, boil it in the boiler with a gradual heating. At what time bubbles begin to show, you need to maintain a smooth fire, so that the oil is slightly boiling. Immediately on a steam bath, 15 parts by weight of the East India copal is melted and brought to a boil. At what time in the molten copal will begin to appear bubbles, you should immediately pour in the resin parts of hot linseed oil, it's time to stir. When all the resin is well combined with a part of the oil, it is poured, with constant stirring, into the oil, boiling in an impressive cauldron. Then pour into a large pot 1 part borate of manganese borate also continue cooking at about 2 hours, removing the resulting foam until the varnish becomes viscous and does not slowly drain off the vat with transparent, golden threads. If you drop the varnish on the glass, then the drop should be high in the form of a hemisphere. After cooling, the drop should be a kind of viscous syrup, stretching into the fibers. These are the signs that the combination of oil with resin has taken place. After that, extinguish the flames under the large boiler also allow the mixture to gradually cool down to 60 ° C. Then 70 parts of turpentine weight elements are poured in parts, making a later sample after each addition, whether the cooled drop preserves the consistency of the viscous syrup. If the viscosity of the varnish is markedly reduced, then the addition of turpentine should be discontinued and the varnish is considered finished.

A good lacquer is forced to be golden in color, smoothly lay on the surface to be painted, dry after 6-8 hours. For painted surfaces, where the yellowish shade does not matter, this varnish can be calculated excellent.

Japanese lacquer

Take 45 elements of turpentine and 60 elements of lavender oil, dehydrate it with calcium chloride, separate the liquid from the sediment, dissolve in it when heated 1 part camphor with 15 parts of copal resin, filter.