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Perfumery

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242. Low alcohol and non-alcohol perfumes. 243. Fragrant sachets. 244. Aromatic smoking paper.
245. Smoking candles. 246. Aromatic baths.
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242. Low alcohol and non-alcohol perfumes.

Nowadays, low-alcohol and non-alcoholic perfumes play an important role in perfumery. Under the first - refers to such spirits, in which the highest alcohol content comes to 40 |, ie, to a degree of vodka, and the lowest to 10 |. For these varieties, one must be very careful in the selection of odorous substances and be guided precisely by the solubility table (see below), otherwise many of them, with a low alcohol content, again stand out from the mixture. It is best to use oils that are free of terpenes and sequiterpenes.
Recently, manufacturers of essential oils have released such oils, free from terpenes and sequiterpenes, which do not give turbidity in weak alcohol. It is these oils that must be used for the production of low-alcohol and non-alcoholic spirits, as they have: 1) a higher concentration than the usual essential oils; 2) the purity of the smell due to the removal of the terpene from the essential oil, which interferes with the aroma; 3) greater persistence, since the terpenes, rapidly oxidized by air oxygen, are removed; 4) solubility in weak alcohol or vodka and, finally, 5) resulting cheapness.
The oils, free from terpenes and sequiterpenes, can be dissolved in ordinary vodka, but it is better to proceed as follows: first dissolve the essential oil in 95% alcohol and gradually add sufficient amount of distilled water to this solution, bringing the dilution to 20 |. If you want to make cheap low-alcohol perfumes, then prepare a 1% solution of essential oil in 70 | -alcohol or 10% solution - in 80 | -alcohol and dilute it with water, in some cases up to 10 |
In the manufacture of low-alcohol spirits face difficulties in filtering, but they can be easily eliminated. First of all, you need to ensure that the mixture was put so many odorous substances and essential oils, how much can in fact be dissolved in diluted alcohol or another fortress. If you take more of them, then after mixing, an excessive amount of odorous substances will again stand out and will remain on the filter during filtration, which you definitely need to avoid. However, excess odorous substances can be easily determined: after mixing with water and accurately determining the strength of alcohol, small fatty particles or a mother-of-pearl coating of a larger or smaller size appear on the surface of the milky-turbid mixture, which mostly swim to the vessel walls, where they accumulate. In cases where such fatty particles are noticeable, we advise you to add more alcohol, or take a smaller amount of odorous substances for a perfume.
Below are a few recipes for low-alcohol spirits.
First, odorous substances, such as vanillin, coumarin, heliotropin, artificial musk, etc., are dissolved in the prescribed amount in 95 | -th alcohol, then st. After repeated agitation and complete dissolution, distilled water is added in small portions with constant agitation.

1) Perfume "Rose". Mixed:
35 pieces of geranium oil (Reunion) st
2 parts st. Patchouli oil
10 parts of linalool oil st
3 pieces of st vanilla
5 pieces of pink bulgarian st oil
10 pieces of st bergamot oil
5 pieces of artificial musk
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts distilled water.
Leave, with frequent shaking, for 14 days and filtered.

2) Perfume "Lilac". Mixed:
10 parts st canang oil
20 parts of vanilla
180 parts of terpineol
3 parts melleola
30 parts heliotropin
10 parts of linalool oil st
40 parts of benzene acetate
5 pieces of artificial musk
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts distilled water.
After 14 days, filtered.

3) Perfume "Heliotrope". Mixed:
8 parts melleola
60 pieces of vanilla
100 parts of heliotropin
10 parts of linalool oil st
3 pieces of clove oil st
10 pieces of st bergamot oil
5 pieces of artificial musk
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts distilled water.
After 14 days, filtered.

4) Perfume "Hyacinth", Mix:
60 parts of heliotropin
24 pieces of hyacinthin
30 pieces of st bergamot oil
5 pieces of canang st oil
50 parts of terpineol
5 pieces of artificial musk
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts distilled water.
After 14 days, filtered.

5) Perfume "Violet". Mixed:
50 pieces of st bergamot oil
10 parts st canang oil
10 parts of geranium oil (Reunion)
20 parts of viodoran
100 parts of the solution of the essence of violet leaves (L and F)
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts distilled water.
After 14 days, filtered.

6) Perfume "Lily of the valley." Mixed:
100 parts of linalool st oil
10 pieces of st bergamot oil
10 parts st canang oil
5 pieces of artificial musk
100 parts of terpineol
10 parts of vanilla
10,000 parts - 95% alcohol
10,000 parts distilled water.
Filtered after 14 days.

7) Cologne double. Mixed:
10 pieces of non-nerium st oil
50 parts of Petit Grain st oil
10 parts citronella oil st
2 pieces of st sweet orange oil
5 pieces of st rosemary
5 pieces of st lavender oil
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts distilled water.
After 14 days, filtered. The amount of water, if desired, can be increased.
For cheaper varieties of cologne do not take st.

8) Cologne (cheap). Mixed:
100 pieces of st bergamot oil
10 pieces of rosemary st
60 pieces of portuguese oil st
30 parts st. Lemon oil
30,000 parts 95 |-alcohol
45,000 parts of distilled water are filtered after 8 days.

9) Ozonogen. Mixed:
3 parts of st noble fir oil
1 part st lavender oil
2 pieces of st eucalyptus oil
1000 parts 95 |-alcohol
500 parts distilled water.

10) Florida Eau de Toilette Water. Mixed:
30 pieces of st lavender oil
40 pieces of st bergamot oil
40 parts st. Lemon oil
25 pieces of clove oil st
40 pieces of orange bitter st oil
12 pieces of orange oil
1 part rose oil
1000 parts 95 |-alcohol
1000 parts distilled water.
Slightly tinted in pink.

11) Toilet water "Sylvia" ("Forest Water"):
480 pieces of st oil
60 pieces of st juniper oil
60 pieces of st eucalyptus oil
6 parts clove oil
1 part cinnamon oil
1 part coumarin
1 part of vanilla
1000 parts 95 |-alcohol
1000 parts distilled water.

12) Eau de Portugal Eau de Toilette:
15,000 parts of non-cerium oil
5000 pieces of lemon oil
2500 parts of bergamot oil
2500 pieces of rosemary
500 pieces of rose oil
250 pieces of orange oil
250 pieces of clove oil
10 pieces of artificial musk
5 pieces of vanilla
1 part nerolin
10,000 parts of 95% alcohol
10,000 parts distilled water.

When drafting other eau de toilette, it must be borne in mind that adding substances such as borax, ammonia, etc. to 20% of the liquid causes turbidity and gives sediment. In such cases, you need to use stronger alcohol.
The second group includes non-alcoholic perfumes (Sinalco), for which the basis is water. Non-alcoholic perfumes are prepared either by digesting strongly smelling plants in water, or by introducing odorous substances into distilled water. In the latter case, the water must be unconditionally distilled so that it does not deteriorate. When preparing non-alcoholic perfumes from plants, leaves and roots are cut very finely or even turned into powder. The crushed herbs are then placed in a closed vessel and boiled in a little water. They can also be distilled with water; we recommend this method, although it is a bit more expensive. Therefore, for the more expensive non-alcoholic perfume sorts, water is distilled along with rose flowers or orange. Some salicylic acid is usually added to the water to prevent damage. But often non-alcoholic perfumes are prepared in such a way that odorous substances are simply added to distilled water and shaken well. First, you should make a sample and establish how much odorous substances are dissolved in water and how many remain undissolved. This amount, as can be seen from the solubility table, is not very large, but it is completely sufficient. Odorous substances, especially essential oils, can also be first carefully ground in a porcelain mortar with carbonate magnesia and then this mixture is added to water, then thoroughly shaken, then the mixture is filtered. Here again, we can recommend st oils, i.e., those that are free of terpenes, because relatively good non-alcoholic perfumes can be made with them. Paints for coloring must, of course, be soluble in water.

243. Fragrant sachets.

Sachet powders are transformed into powder aromatic herbs, to which real or artificial odorous substances are added to enhance the smell, as well as aromatic gums for fixing the smell, because these powders need to be fixed very much, despite the fact that they are natural products. . Musk and benzoic tinctures are particularly suitable for this purpose, and all kinds of aromatic resins can be consumed. It is recommended to use resins in a highly concentrated solution, since in this form they have a stronger effect than if they are mixed into sachets in a powder farm. The fact is that the aroma inherent in the resin does not show a sufficient effect in this form, and since the resin in the dry state cannot mix so well with the herbs, it does not fix the smell as it should. With musk the situation is somewhat different. True or artificial musk is ground very carefully with pumice powder or fine quartz sand so that it can "open up" and better give off all its smell. If you take a tincture of musk, then the powder for sachets in most cases will be too raw. But instead of the aforementioned, some ponderous means you can take carbon magnesia for grinding, powder of iris or violet root, but they do not have such sharp edges as pumice or quartz sand, and therefore musk does not “open” completely.
A relatively large amount of fixing substances is used for sachet powder, especially artificial musk, and a number of cheap varieties of violet sachets are nothing more than ordinary iris root powder mixed with powdered artificial musk. For sachet powders, all aromatic herbs and plants are suitable, which, whenever possible, try to turn into powder or, at least, chop up as finely as possible. For example, sandalwood, cedar, rosewood, rose leaves, lavender flowers, nutmeg, cassia color, iris root, cloves, cinnamon, orange peel, tonka bean, vetiver root, patchouli leaves, almonds are suitable for this purpose. and almond bran. For fixation, you can take musk or musk residues, as well as filtering residues from fixing agents. Further, for sachets, it is possible with great success to use the residues on filter paper, through which the perfume was filtered, as well as the filter paper itself, well dried and ground to powder.
Making powders for sachets is very simple. Mix the appropriate powders, sift them through a not too frequent sieve and, if necessary, a little more choke, and then again wipe through a sieve. For this purpose, it is recommended to use closed drums so that the smell from the powder mixture does not evaporate and that the powder particles do not dissipate into the air. A strongly concentrated solution of the resins is triturated with carbonate magnesia or with an iris root and added to the powder.
The sachets themselves are made in a variety of ways. The above powders after fragrance scatter in paper or silk bags or silk pads, padded cotton. You can also compress the finished powders into tablets or lozenges and pack them elegantly for sale. In this case, it is only necessary to add a little binder in the form of a solution of tragantha or dextrin, but the mass must nevertheless be relatively dry so that it does not get stuck in the pressing machine.
When applying liquid odorous substances and essential oils, it is necessary to ensure that they are not added to the basic powder in greater quantities than it actually absorbs. Also, one should never fill sachets with just prepared powders; they should be allowed to stand for several days, so that the liquid odorous substances can be completely absorbed into the prepared mass. Otherwise, you will very soon have to make sure that the packaging becomes spotty, as the liquid odorous substances added to the powder in too large quantities or did not have time to be absorbed into the bulk, act on the surface of the powder as a fat layer and penetrate the wrapping paper. Even parchment paper does not help against this, not to mention the fact that for packing sachet powders one should use as much porous paper as possible so that the smell of the powder can evaporate more easily and flavor more items adjacent to the sachet.

244. Aromatic smoking paper.

Of smoking drugs, smoking paper is most often required. It is prepared in the following way. Impregnated unglued throughput paper first with a solution of nitrate, and then, when the paper is completely dry, impregnated with the following mixture:
250 parts of violet root (in powder)
100 parts of dewy incense (in powder)
12 pieces of myrrh (in powder)
10 parts of artificial musk (in powder)
1000 parts of 95% alcohol or cologne,
This mixture is infused for a month, then filtered. The paper is impregnated with large sheets, and then cut into strips with company and name inscriptions. This paper is called either French or Armenian.

245. Smoking candles.

Smoking candles or "nuns" enjoy great sympathy among the people, which, perhaps, is facilitated by their extremely convenient use. In addition, they constitute an important subject for export to Muslim countries, where alcohol is prohibited.
Cooking smoking candles is as follows: their constituent parts are mixed in a porcelain mortar into a plastic mass. From the latter, one sticks 1 cm thick are cut on a pill typewriter, they are cut, rolled out with the help of a small plank, like a suppository, into a pointed cone. In the production of large quantities, you can use special machines. Smoking candles are more attractive in appearance by coating with multicolored bronze powder.
Here is a tried and tested recipe borrowed from A. Klinge’s collection.
3500 parts of charcoal (in powder)
100 parts nitre (in powder)
100 parts of traganth (in powder)
3000 parts (approximately) of water.
From the named products a thick dough is prepared and added:
100 pieces of storax
100 parts of benzo-resin
1 part coumarin
1 part of vanilla,
mix and excrete smoking candles as described above.

246. Aromatic baths.

Already in antiquity aromatic baths were in great use. These baths are very pleasant and useful, especially in the hot season, as they refresh and strengthen the body. To enhance the effect of added salt or ammonia. Pine bath water. Mixed:
50 pieces of pine oil
5 parts lavender oil
100 parts of ammonia.

Pine bath salt. Mixed:
100 pieces of salt
15 pieces of pine oil
5 parts lavender oil.
After the bath, the body is wiped dry and massaged.