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Secret Kiev or a city that we do not notice

The fact is that the territory on which this or that house stands has its own characteristics and even unexpected ones.

In the very center, at the beginning of Taras Shevchenko Boulevard (where the buildings of the five-star Premier Palace building), about two hundred years ago there was a burial place - a cemetery for Lutherans: rainwater periodically "eroded sandy soil, now and then exposing the coffins."

For example, in the very center, at the beginning of Taras Shevchenko Boulevard (where the buildings of the five-star Premier Palace), two hundred years ago there was a burial place - a cemetery for Lutherans: rainwater periodically "eroded sandy soil, now and then exposing the coffins." And on Mikhailovskaya Square in even more ancient times, the Uniates were buried. When in 1868 they began to smash the square, they found many human remains. In the twentieth century, many Kiev cemeteries were demolished and built up: former necropolises at Askold's grave are known, on Schekavitsa (where the radio tower is now sticking out), on Castle Hill, in Kirillovskaya Grove, etc., much has been written about the destroyed Jewish cemeteries on the site of the television center building, of the Botanical Garden on Zverinets (Hello Triumph) ... A skyscraper in front of the Pokrovsky monastery has grown on the bones and only the brick gates that once led to the Ascension Church and the cemetery still stand, marked with the sign "Artem, 46". Prestigious Lukyanovka. Zvintor arose spontaneously and according to descriptions of the end of the 19th century: “livestock of the Lukyanovsk inhabitants lived freely on the territory of the necropolis, moreover,“ these animals dump crosses and trellises from graves, pigs tear apart the graves and dig out the bones of the dead, scattering them throughout the cemetery. ”In 1946 in the year, a tram that used to run along Melnikov was launched along the newly laid Belorusskaya Street, and its turn ring was set up at the cemetery site, and then adjacent sections of the Kiev Higher Engineering Radio Engineering absorbed the cemetery territory Eskoe School (KVIRTU) and Motozavod .... The place of the former cemetery is easy to "calculate" on the city plan: the directions of Belorusskaya and Pugacheva streets intersect there. The Kopylovsky cemetery is exactly opposite the Kirillovskaya church and the hospital. Residents of Kurenevka used it because of the crowded graveyard parish of the Peter and Paul Church Then land was allotted for the new Kurenevsky cemetery (behind Syretskaya street), and the small Kopylovsky necropolis was declared closed in 1927. In 1962, the city executive committee decided to liquidate the Kopylovsky cemetery. Now, opposite the Kirillovskaya Church, there is a green slope, at the beginning of Zakharyevskaya Street, new residential buildings have grown. And deep under the slope are hidden burial grounds.

  • - There was a Jewish bazaar on the metro of Victory Square. Evbaz was called.
  • - The Verkhovna Rada is located on the site of an Indian cemetery.
  • - On the territory of the hospital on the mulberry, there were burials of a sick plague cattle. Now there is a construction site ...
  • - I read somewhere that in the territory of Troieschyna there used to be pagan temples, and in general the place was lost ...
  • - Part of Tsarskoye Selo and Suvorovsky territory - the burial place of people from the time of tsarism.

Cage with ravens
They are crows, mind you, not crows. Their names are Cyril, Carlos and Corbin. They live in a huge cage in an ordinary courtyard in the city center. The residents of the courtyard, as well as their many guests, look after them and compose legends about where these birds came from. Having visited the cell three times, we heard three completely different stories. So, someone Arthur assured us that the birds met here by accident. First, a couple flew into the courtyard - Corbin and Carlos. Then Cyril also flew in, after which a love triangle formed: old Corbin became jealous of Carlos to Cyril, so Corbin was taken to a separate sector in a common cell. st. Reitarskaya, 9, in the yard.
Elevator for one
According to the certificate given to us by an old woman who lived in this house all her life, the elevator was made by order of some important minister in the 50s. The minister believed that large elevators threatened his safety, and preferred to ride alone from floor to floor. The elevator is really tiny, the two of them can only fit in if you are striving for real proximity. st. Slotted.
Destroyer on Rybalsky Island
He’s the Zheleznyakov monitor, a legendary ship. The basic information about its history and characteristics can be found there, on the plaque, but you need to go there not at all for this. The place is good in that: firstly, you can freely climb the ship, and secondly, it is almost always quiet on Rybalsky Island, it is nice to sunbathe (on concrete slabs) and swing (on swings that are always empty) and swim (in the Dnieper, which is not always clean, but nearby). with st. Roll the lower shaft onto the cable-stayed bridge.
Well houses
It is ridiculous to compete with the hero Peter in this sense. As far as we know, we have only two well houses. The house, sandwiched between the streets of Gorodetsky and Stanislavsky, is built in the shape of a square, that is, if you can get into the attic, you can walk around the perimeter of the whole house. Another, designed on the same principle, is located on the street. Tereschenkovskaya, exactly behind the monument to Shevchenko. st. Gorodetsky 12/3 st. Tereshchenkovskaya 13
Monument to a single mother
It is unknown to whom it occurred to erect this joyless monument near the Central registry office. Nevertheless, she is there, a lonely woman with a child, her loneliness challenging the newlyweds in the registry office, and wealthy families chewing burgers in neighboring McDonald's. Central registry office pr. Victory, 11
Parachute Tower
It’s a wonderful construction, from where no one has been jumping for a long time, since the daughter of some nomenclature chief allegedly crashed there. Today the parachute tower is just another reason to go to Trukhanov Island, walk through the woods and swim naked.
Museum near the steam train
A small, toy-looking locomotive with the name “sheep” (series OV) stands one hundred meters from the entrance to the recreation center KPI. The building to which the steam locomotive stands sideways is the State Polytechnical Museum, a huge exhibition on the development of technology in Ukraine. In the field of informatics and astronautics, for example, there is the first telephone exchange in Russia in 1886, the first Zaporozhets, tube radio sets, gramophones, televisions with a screen, like a matchbox, the oldest computers the size of a house, printing presses and airplanes - all man-made, that rides, swims, flies, and at the same time rumbles, grinds and clangs. The museum was opened for the 100th anniversary of the Polytech (September 14, 1998) Leonid Kuchma. They say that in honor of his visit, the cracks in the tiles were manually painted over with a white corrector. 37 Peremohy ave., building 6 241-7717 9:00 - 17:00; break 13:00 - 14:00; entrance free of charge preliminary booking of excursions
Toilet in the Bessarabian courtyard
For some reason, the patriarchal place in the very center of the city is stubbornly ignored by the majority of Kiev residents who are in a hurry to relieve the need for other paid or free public places. A rare institution, equally pompous and smelly, where, with absolute accessibility, despite the free entrance, there are no queues even on the days of festivities. Khreschatyk, 27, in the courtyard of the casino “Red Lion”
Ski jump
Springboards, well-groomed or completely neglected, for some reason scared to shoot Moscow directors in films and videos. It dawned on the fact that only stewardesses competed with jumps in this sense all last year. Such a photogenic monument to the developed sports industry of the Soviet era is also in Kiev. It's nice that our springboard has found a much more everyday application: here they drink beer and contemplate the bustle of the city. Through the Republican Stadium upstairs or from Laboratory Alley
“Old Kiev”
A nice inexpensive basement cafe in the center, renovated about ten years ago, has since ceased to be the main hippy point of the city, but it has not acquired either a luxurious hall, a summer terrace, air conditioning, or good music - that is why there will be no one to interfere in the summer you have a snack. They say that little by little gay people live here - maybe they don’t lie. st. Khreshchatyk, 52 234-2503, 9:00 - 24:00
Tatarka Hills
Tatarka differs from other publicly accessible and popular picnic places (Gidropark, Pushcha-Voditsa) in that there are terraces and shady areas, taking one of which you can be sure that someone else will not stay next door. In addition, there is clean air, it offers a great view of Obolon and Rybalsky island. Tatarka is located near the center, so getting here is quite simple. Tatarka is located between Lukyanovka and Podil. Getting here is better from the street. Upland
Pylon with Gorky in the metro station "University"
The first section of the Kiev metro - just a little more than 5 km - was opened between Vokzalnaya and Dnipro stations in 1960. People skated on business and just to see. Then the exit from the station “University” opened directly into the botanical garden of the University. A reminder of this in the lobby remained an incredible amount of Kalanchoe, begonias and cacti. In the lower hall, eight plaster busts of Ukrainian and Russian cultural figures are still looking out from niches in pink-marble pylons. It is known for certain that pebbles and shells imprinted in a marble slab under Maxim Gorky, like the slab itself, belong to the Cretaceous period - and this is not in the Geology Museum of the Academy of Sciences, but just like that. Universitet metro station, lower hall
Climbing wall
The main place in Kiev for beginners and experienced climbers - they train here at any time of the year. Watching them is a pleasure, but it's better to join them. Climbers are friendly people, they will gladly give the necessary advice, and maybe someday they will even take with them to Elbrus. Arsenalnaya metro station, Green Theater
House with cats on Gogolevskaya
This centenary 4-story asymmetric building is erroneously attributed to Gorodetsky. A huge lancet window at the bottom of the right wing is guarded by a pair of bas-relief cats, on the second floor frightening human faces are fashioned, near the staircase windows there are owls and again muzzles. This house spoils everything modern: a stupid pompous staircase, a too noticeable bronze plate, and euro-windows in the left wing. And the bust of the scientist-mechanic Stepan Tymoshenko looks just appropriate. And on the 4th floor, on the right, until 1995, a wonderful satirist Garik Conn lived with his grandmother and ficuses in tubs. st. Gogolevskaya, 23
Friendship Park
The vast space between the left and right banks of the Dnieper, even in Soviet times, adapted to the park. Once here on a weekend, you can participate in cycling, car rally and dog show at the same time. A special pleasure is just to walk among the myriad of picnicking people. metro Petrovka bus / tp “Park of Friendship of Peoples”
Moscow bridge
People with a certain dexterity and some recklessness, climb the galleries under the supports of the bridge and thus get over from one coast to another. For the less decisive, at least a new look at the seemingly familiar structure is guaranteed. metro Petrovka avt / tr stop “Moscow bridge”
Car viewing platform
The only place in the city where you can see the entire left-bank of Kiev without leaving your car, without risking anything. Entry is free and police rarely occur. In the absence of an open-air cinema in the city, it is also an excellent option for a romantic evening with a loved one. turn from the street January Uprising to the Lavra Gallery to the left along the cobblestone road
Smorodinsky descent “Khrushchev road”
The shortest path between Podil and Tatarka was built when Nikita Khrushchev was the first secretary of the Ukrainian Central Committee. The best place for extreme driving: a complex cobblestone forest serpentine with sharp dull corners is great for checking brakes and nerves. st. Nagornaya - st. Frunze, 85
Santiago de Chile Square
Few people in Kiev know that such an area really exists. In the center of the square is a monument with the symbol of the city of Santiago de Chile and with its coat of arms. They say that if you look at this monument for a long enough time, it seems that the emblem travels up and down it. We checked. Really rides. Obolon, intersection of Heroes of Stalingrad Avenue and Malinovsky Street
Concrete ship
It is only known for certain that a concrete structure similar to a submarine was built in the 30s of the last century as a strategic object. The guard of the adjacent territory, Mikhail Ivanovich, for example, is absolutely sure that the building was designed in case of war, so that the cavalry could move to the other side of the Dnieper. The replacement of Mikhail Ivanovich Anatoly Alekseevich and his colleague agree. from the left of the “Show Park” on Obolon
“Olzhin Dvir”
Nine years ago, walls were pasted over with a variety of paper currencies, and customers joyfully began to contribute to the design: license plates from different countries, horse ammunition, hats from the Confederate to the steelworker visor, kerosene lamps with sewing machines and balalaikas. The most unauthorized ones leave business cards here - their place on the wall behind the bar counter. In terms of food, it’s a little expensive for an institution where it’s so smoked, but varied: from hodgepodge to Corrida (bull eggs from the meat rows of the Podolsk market in garlic sauce). In terms of pastime, you can talk loudly and play music in an acoustic way, becoming like regulars - party people of all stripes. trans. Tithes, 7 212-2364, 212-3962
Monument to Alexander II
The only monument preserved from pre-revolutionary times to a member of the Romanov family by Mark Antokolsky can be seen from the window of the second floor of the museum. You can get into the courtyard with the help of amiable caretakers, the easy interest of the security guard or under the pretext of an imaginary scientific work. Before the revolution, Alexander II stood on a pedestal, on which now - Taras Shevchenko in the park of the same name. Patio of the Museum of Russian Art Tereschenkovskaya, 9
“Oxamite” on Proreznaya
The institution is listed in the city reference for the department of wine and vodka products since the forties of the last century (and the building was completely one and a half hundred years old). It somehow resembles at the same time the Aksen’s “Men's Club” and a shop somewhere in Gagra, but in general it’s completely Soviet: blind burgundy curtains on windows, crushed dermatin stools at plastic standing tables, brutal woodcarving, heavy sour smell of a coffee maker. Three faience cups with broken handles and public teaspoons are especially touching: in one there is sugar for coffee, in the other - salt for tomato juice, in the third - water for rinsing after the first two. For shrimochkoy pass on a glass, eating a sandwich, quite respected people. They like to go here: once they were students, now they have grown. st. Proreznaya, 22 229-4727, 9:00 - 21:00
Cannons of the Kiev Fortress
The “oblique caponier” is known primarily for the fact that it is still struggling with the guardhouse at the Arsenalnaya metro station for the right to be considered Taras Shevchenko’s prison. In fact - a great place for a walk, although without picnics, but spacious. Children are brought here to look at the guns. Of all the guns mounted on the shaft, there are only two of them: real cannons with Russian emblems, which were in service with the Russian army until the middle of the 19th century. All the others according to the old drawings were cast at the Arsenal plant in the mid-90s, and use them as salute installations. st. Hospital, 24a metro "Sports Palace", trolley bus stop "Museum" Kiev Fortress "
Castle hill
One of the “Bald”, about the number of which they argue: three or four Just below the house number 22 on St. Andrew's descent, in the depths, there is a steep cast-iron staircase to the top of the mountain. At the top, the path on the left abuts against a trampled clearing around a high metal cross - a hippie pilgrimage site. It’s customary to tie knotted shoelaces and ribbons “for the sale of dreams”. The right direction leads to the very Castle Hill, which, according to excavations, has been inhabited for at least four thousand years. Its last settlers were Soviet signalmen, but they also left, leaving a fallen bearing tower on their own. If in order to walk, have a bite or see the panorama of Podil and the left bank of the Dnieper - the most beautiful option.
Cafe-bar “Ukrainian Brovar”
What to show your friends to the National Bank of Ukraine, the Presidential Administration and the top object of Kiev - the House with chimeras (inside which is now a clinic of the Cabinet of Ministers), take them immediately to the Art Nouveau mansion on the corner of Institutskaya and Bankova with the sign “Union of Writers of Ukraine”. You need to get inside, but not from the front door, unless your company is a writer. For the seventh year, an institution that is pleasant in every way open with high-quality traditional cuisine and a billiard room is open here. People come here for lunch: the National Bank, the Cabinet of Ministers, the Presidential Administration, writers, and without security. The staff remembers how Igor Sarukhanov came in in the summer, demanded lard and tomato, but was satisfied with baked potatoes with garlic. And you can order yourself “Grain-like meat” or the branded “Brovshteks-style steak” by choosing Georgian or vintage Crimean wine on the map and sit on a summer terrace under a tent or under a lilac - quietly, slowly, without crowds. st. Bank, 2 253-33-27 11:00 - 23:00
Toy railway
A network of special narrow-gauge railways was built in the USSR in 1953 on the Day of the Railway Worker (August 2). This was done in order to interest children with real, not toy, rails-hitch-wagons-diesel locomotives. Schoolchildren, starting from 12 years old, and now they are studying there as shunting dispatchers, conductors and train drivers. Wearing the uniform of the Southwest Railway, they drive a locomotive on the lines between the Vyshenka and Yablonka stations and on the 100-meter railway bridge over a steep yar, serving tracks and two trains of a mini-locomotive and four cars. According to the ticket stubs, the volume of passenger traffic is considered: it is possible that in the anniversary year you will become a 5-millionth passenger. st. Shamrylo, 4 (in Syretsky forest park) 458-4834, Sun 11:00 - 16:00 the rest days on request tickets: 0.68 UAH. children, 1.36 UAH. adult, children under 10 years free
Redoubts on Bald Mountain
Tunnels, abandoned mines, earthen redoubts, a looted military cemetery. A minimum of fantasy plus a crowd of tolkinists. If you look for where to join the fighting of several eras, where against the muskets and mortars - swords, bows, arrows, it is here. Having passed through the supermarket “Great Kyshenya”, you can have an excellent picnic: there are few people, secluded places and much cleaner than on Trukhanov Island. st. Kikvidze, interchange to Boryspil, entry directly onto the forest road
“Babylon” at the Cinema House
This is really a whole club: a restaurant and a cafe-bar on the second floor and another cafe on the third. Everywhere there is dim light, as during viewing, and certainly one of the filmmakers. For some reason, citizens, even crowding in the vast house-like foyer at exhibitions and fairs of domestic light industry, think that all these establishments are open only to their own. Citizens, do not deprive yourself of pleasure in a quality, without fuss, at divine prices dine in the nostalgic “Babylon”, whose current director Anatoly Aleksanyan is the only playing restaurant director in Kiev: he is happy to sit down at the “Ferster” red piano for very honorable or beloved ones guests. One of them, Alik Shpilyuk, knows Aleksanyan’s secret: an inconspicuous door behind Babylon leads to a small studio where he writes very good music with friends in the relatively quiet daytime for a restaurant. At the time of the former director Pavel Bagratovich Markarov, Aleksanyan accompanied here on the same piano jazz top singer Natalya Gure. And Pavel Bagratovich himself drove Vladimir Konkin out of the hall, drunk loudly calling himself Pavka Korchagin, and cordially greeted David Yanovich Cherkassky, who now prefers “Babylon” to all other taverns and parties. st. Saksaganskogo, 6 227-4513 Restaurant and cafe-bar 11:00 - 23:00 Cafe 10:00 - 20:00
“House of Bergonier”
On the cafe’s business card it says: “The only refectory theater in Kiev”, it’s also a theater buffet, or a cafe. There are two entrances: through the terrace of the summer area with wicker furniture, and into the next door with the service entrance to the Lesya Ukrainka Theater (the glass wall between them creates the illusion of theatrical space). From here, go a long corridor past the door to the “Backstage” (art cafe for dinner parties with ceremonial furniture and an aquarium). The walls are covered with black and white theatrical posters on which abundant autographs of tele-photo-theatrical stars are left - they are very interesting to read while waiting for the order. They cook it deliciously, they serve it efficiently, they ask for money on average, and most importantly, what a pleasure it is to meet in the hall of an innocently dining theater composer Shuru Kokhanovsky, whose performance is being prepared for staging by the theater. They will release, and Shura will also write something on the wall. st. Pushkinskaya, 17 234-2202 8:00 - 23:00
Despite the presence of the address, this landscape with the name “Kitaevskaya Desert” is not easy to find. It is necessary to move along the avenue of Science (minibuses go to Korchevaty from the Lybidskaya metro station, either by car, or even by bicycle) to Kitaevskaya Street, and then follow literally a ring. It always rings. Because there are two churches (Trinity, in the characteristic Ukrainian baroque style, built by Semyon Kovnir, the author of an entire street in the Lavra) and another building in which, according to the latest legend, the Templars live and work. And beneath this all - the caves remaining from the underground monastery of the XIV century. And around - a chain of natural lakes in the shape of a horseshoe, from which springs beat fountains, as if whales were hiding at the bottom. And over the lakes a semicircular mountain - you can walk and walk. st. Kitaevskaya, 1
Candles of chestnuts, the Ukrainian Madonna and the head of either an adult Mowgli or a tractor driver were laid out on the wall of the building of the Western Museum by Vladimir Ovchinnikov, who had been directing the museum until 1978. They say that he did this every day from 7 am, for his own pleasure and with his own money. It is clear that Ovchinnikov wanted everyone to see the mosaic, but nowhere, except for the courtyard of his museum, he was not allowed to work. But thanks to this circumstance, unthinkable characters are still alive. The courtyard of the Museum of Western and Eastern Art. Bogdan and Varvara Khanenko entrance through the gateway of the house number 17 on the street. Tereshchenkovskaya