Secret Kiev or the city that we do not notice
The fact is that the territory on which this or that house stands has its own characteristics and even unexpected ones.
Two hundred years ago, there was a burial place in the very center, at the beginning of Taras Shevchenko Boulevard, where the five-star Premier Palace building was located - the Lutheran cemetery: rainwater periodically "washed away the sandy soil, now and then exposing the coffins."
For example, in the very center, at the beginning of Taras Shevchenko Boulevard (where the corps of the five-star Premier Palace), two hundred years ago, there was a burial place - a Lutheran cemetery: rainwater periodically "washed away the sandy soil, continually exposing coffins." And on Mikhaylovskaya Square, in even more ancient times, Uniates were buried. When in 1868 they began to break the square, they found a lot of human remains. In the twentieth century, many Kiev cemeteries were demolished and built up: the former necropolis near Askold's grave, Schekavitsa (where the radio tower now stands) are known, on Zamkova Hill, in Kirillovskaya Grove, etc., a lot has been written about the destroyed Jewish cemeteries in the place of the telecentre building, Botanical Garden on Zveritsa (Greetings to Triumph) ... A skyscraper in front of the Pokrovsky Monastery grew on bones and only the brick gates, which once led to the Ascension Church and the cemetery, still stand, marked with a sign "Artem, 46". Prestigious Lukyanovka. Zvintor appeared spontaneously and according to the descriptions of the end of the 19th century: “the livestock of Lukyanov ordinary people walked freely around the necropolis, and“ these animals dump crosses and grids at the graves, pigs tear the very graves and tear out the bones of the dead, dragging them across the cemetery. ”In 1946 year, a tram that had previously walked through Melnikov was set up along the newly laid Belorusskaya street, and a reversal ring was made on the site of the cemetery. Then the cemetery territory was swallowed by adjacent sections of the Kiev Higher Engineering Radio Engineering Kokirsk School and Motozavod .... The former cemetery is easy to “figure out” on the city plan: the directions of Belorusskaya and Pugachev streets will cross. Kopylovskoye cemetery is exactly opposite to the Kirillovskaya church and the hospital. the parish church of St. Peter and Paul. Then the land was allotted for a new Kurenevskoye cemetery (outside Syretskaya Street), and in 1927 the small Kopylovsky necropolis was declared closed. In 1962, the city executive committee decided to liquidate the Kopylovsky cemetery. Now, in front of the Church of St. Cyril, there is a green slope, at the beginning of Zakharyevskaya Street, new residential houses have grown. And deep under the slope hidden forgotten burial places.
- - At the Mettsta Victory Square was a Jewish bazaar. Evbaz called.
- - The Verkhovna Rada is located on the site of an Indian cemetery.
- - On the territory of the hospital on the mulberry, there were burials of sick plague cattle. Now there is a building ...
- - I read somewhere that there used to be pagan temples in the territory of Troyeshchina, and the place was killed ...
- - A part of Tsarskoye Selo and the territory of Suvorov is the burial place of people of tsarist times.
They are ravens, notice, not wars. Their names are Cyril, Carlos and Corbin. They live in a huge cage in an ordinary courtyard in the center of the city. Residents of the yard, as well as their numerous guests, take care of them and compose legends about where these birds came from. Having been near the cage three times, we heard three completely different stories. So, someone Arthur assured us that the birds met here quite by accident. First, a couple flew into the courtyard - Corbin and Carlos. Then Cyril also flew in, after which a love triangle formed: the old Corbin became jealous of Carlos for Cyril, so Corbin was taken away a separate sector in the common cell. st. Reitarskaya, 9, in the yard.
According to the certificate given to us by an old woman who lived in this house all her life, an elevator was commissioned by some important minister in the 50s. The minister believed that large elevators threaten his safety, and preferred to ride from floor to floor alone. The elevator is really tiny, you can only fit there if you are aiming for real intimacy. st. Prorizna.
He is the monitor of “Zheleznyakov”, the legend ship. Basic information about its history and characteristics can be read in the same place, on a memorial plaque, but it is not at all necessary to go there. The place is good because: firstly, the ship can be easily climbed, secondly, on the Rybalsky island it is almost always quiet, it is nice to sunbathe (on concrete slabs), and swing (on the swings, which are always empty), and swim (in the Dnieper, which is not always clean, but next to it). from the street. Roll the lower shaft onto the cable-stayed bridge.
With the hero of the day, Peter, in this sense, Kiev is ridiculous. As far as we know, we have only two well-houses. The house, sandwiched between Gorodetsky and Stanislavsky streets, is built in the shape of a square, that is, if you can get into the attic, you can walk along the perimeter of the whole house. Another, designed according to the same principle, is located on ul. Tereschenkovskaya, exactly behind the monument to Shevchenko. st. Gorodetsky 12/3 st. Tereshchenkovskaya 13
To whom it occurred to establish this bleak monument next to the Central Registry Office, is unknown. Nevertheless, she is there, a lonely woman with a child, with her loneliness challenging both newlyweds in the registry office and prosperous families chewing hamburgers in nearby McDonald's. Central Registry Office 11 Victory Ave.
A marvelous structure, from which no one has been jumping for a long time, since the daughter of some nomenklatura boss had allegedly broken there. Today, the parachute tower is just another reason to go to Trukhanov Island, to walk around the forest and swim naked.
A small, toy-like steam locomotive with the name “lamb” (series OV) stands a hundred meters from the entrance to the recreation center KPI. The building, to which the engine stands sideways, is the State Polytechnic Museum, a huge exhibition on the development of technology in Ukraine. In the informatics and cosmonautics section, for example, the first telephone exchange in Russia in 1886, the first Zaporozhets, lamp radiols, record players, television sets with a screen like a matchbox, ancient computers the size of a house, printing presses and airplanes are all man-made, that goes, floats, flies and at the same time rumbles, grinds and clanges. The museum opened to the 100th anniversary of the Polytech (September 14, 1998) Leonid Kuchma. They say that in honor of his visitation, the cracks in the tile were manually painted over with a white proofreader. Victory Avenue, 37, building 6 241-7717 9:00 - 17:00 break 13:00 - 14:00 free admission of excursions
For some reason, the patriarchal place in the very center of the city is stubbornly ignored by the majority of Kiev residents, who are in a hurry to help out other paid or free public places. Rare institution, equally pompous and smelly, where, with absolute availability, despite the free entry, there are no queues even on the days of the festivities. Khreshchatyk, 27, in the courtyard of the casino “Red Lion”
Trampolines, well-groomed or absolutely neglected, for some reason terribly loved to shoot in directors of Moscow films and videos. It came to that only flight attendants competed with jumps in this sense for the whole of last year. Such a photogenic monument to the developed sport industry of the Soviet period is also in Kiev. It is nice that our springboard has found much more everyday use: here they drink beer and contemplate the city bustle. Via the Republican Stadium to the top or from the Laboratory Lane
A nice inexpensive semi-basement cafe in the very center, renovated ten years ago, has since ceased to be the main hippian point of the city, but it has neither acquired a luxurious hall, nor a summer platform, nor air conditioning, nor good music - that is why in the summer there will be no one to interfere you have a snack. It is said that gays live here little by little - maybe they don’t lie. st. Khreshchatyk, 52 234-2503, 9:00 - 24:00
Tatarka differs from other popular and popular picnic places (Hydropark, Pusha-Voditsa) Tatarka in that there are terraces and shady areas, having occupied one of which you can be sure that no one else will be located next to you. In addition, there is clean air here, a great view of Obolon and Rybalsky Island opens from here. Tatar is located near the center, so getting here is quite simple. Tatarka is located between Lukyanovka and Podil. Get better here from the street. Upland
The first section of the Kiev metro - just a little more than 5 km - between the stations "Vokzalnaya" and "Dnepr" opened in 1960. People skated on business and just watch. Then the exit from the station “University” opened right in the botanical garden of the University. Reminders of this in the lobby were incredible size Kalanchoe, begonias and cacti. In the lower hall, eight gypsum busts of Ukrainian and Russian cultural figures are still looking from the niches in the pink-marble pylons. It is known for certain that pebbles and shells imprinted in a marble slab under Maxim Gorky belong, like the slab itself, to the Cretaceous period - and this is not just in the Museum of Geology of the Academy of Sciences, but simply so. metro “University”, lower hall
The main place in Kiev for beginners and venerable climbers - they train here at any time of the year. Watching them is a pleasure, but it’s better to join them. Climbers are friendly people, they will gladly give necessary advice, and, maybe, someday they will even take with them to Elbrus. Arsenalnaya metro station, Green Theater
This century-old 4-storey asymmetrical building is mistakenly attributed to Gorodetsky. A huge lancet window at the bottom of the right wing is guarded by a pair of cat-reliefs, on the second floor scary human faces are molded, near the staircase windows there are owls and again faces. All this modern house spoils: and foolish pompous entrance, and too noticeable bronze plaque, and euro windows in the left wing. A bust of a mechanic scientist Stepan Timoshenko looks just appropriate. And on the 4th floor, on the right, until 1995, there lived a wonderful satirist Garik Conn with his grandmother and ficuses in tubs. st. Gogolevskaya, 23
The immense space between the left and right banks of the Dnieper, even in Soviet times, adapted to the park. Having come here on a day off, you can participate at the same time in cycling, rally and dog show. Separate pleasure - just walk among the myriad of people picnic. Metro Petrovka avt / tr station “Park of Friendship of Peoples”
People with a certain dexterity and some recklessness climb up the galleries under the pillars of the bridge and thus move from one bank to another. For the less resolute, at least a new look at the seemingly familiar structure is guaranteed. Metro Petrovka avt / tr stop "Moskovsky Bridge"
The only place in the city where you can see the entire left-bank Kiev, without leaving your car, without risking anything. Entry is free and police rarely occur. In the absence of an open-air cinema in the city, it is also an excellent version of a romantic evening with a loved one. turn from the street. The January Uprising to the gallery "Lavra" to the left along the cobbled road
The shortest path between Podil and Tatarka was built when Nikita Khrushchev was the first secretary of the Ukrainian Central Committee. The best place for extreme driving: difficult forest serpentine with sharp deaf turns is great for checking brakes and nerves. st. Nagornaya - st. Frunze, 85
Few Kievans know that such an area really exists. In the center of the square is a monument with the symbol of the city of Santiago de Chile and with its emblem. They say that if you look at this monument for a long time, it seems that the coat of arms goes up and down it. We checked. Really drives. Obolon, the intersection of Heroes of Stalingrad Avenue and Malinovsky Street
It is only known for certain that the concrete structure similar to a submarine was built in the 30s of the last century as a strategic object. The guard of the adjacent territory, Mikhail Ivanovich, for example, is absolutely certain that the building is designed in case of war, so that the cavalry could move to the other side of the Dnieper. Changemaster Mikhail Ivanovich Anatoly Alekseevich with a colleague agrees. from the left of “Show Park” in Obolon
9 years ago, the walls were covered with various paper currencies, and customers happily began to contribute to the design: car numbers from different countries, horse gear, hats from confederate to steelworking, kerosene lamps with sewing machines and balalaika. The most casual ones leave business cards here - their place on the wall behind the bar. In terms of food, it is a little expensive for an institution where it is so full of smoke, but differently styled: from the hodgepodge to the “Corrida” dish (bull eggs from the meat rows of the Podolsky market in garlic sauce). In the sense of pastime - you can loudly talk and play music in an acoustic way, becoming like regulars - party-goers of all stripes. per. Desyatinny, 7 212-2364, 212-3962
The only monument to the family member of the Romanov family, preserved from pre-revolutionary time, can be seen from the window of the second floor of the museum of Mark Antokolsky. The courtyard can be accessed with the help of courteous caretakers, a light interest of the guard or under the pretext of imaginary scientific work. Before the revolution, Alexander II stood on a pedestal on which now Taras Shevchenko is in the park of the same name. Patio of the Museum of Russian Art ul. Tereshchenkovskaya 9
The institution has been listed in the municipal reference office for the department of wine and vodka products since the forties of the last century (and the building has been altogether a hundred and fifty years old). It is at the same time reminiscent of Axen’s “Male Club” and a shop somewhere in Gagra, but in general it is completely Soviet: deaf burgundy curtains on the windows, crushed leatherette stools near plastic standing tables, brutal wood carving, a heavy sour coffee maker scent. Three faience cups with broken handles and public teaspoons are especially touching: in one sugar for coffee, in the other - salt for tomato juice, in the third - water for rinsing after the first two. Over the shirmochka skip on a glass, biting a sandwich, quite respected people. They like to go here: once they were students, now they have grown. st. Proreznaya 22 229-4727, 9:00 - 21:00
“Kosoy Kaponir” is known primarily for the fact that it is still struggling with the guardhouse at the Arsenalnaya metro station for the right to be considered the prison of Taras Shevchenko. In fact, it is a great place to walk, albeit without picnics, but spacious. Children lead here to look at the gun. Of all the guns mounted on the shaft, only two are real combat guns: guns with Russian coats of arms, which were in service with the Russian army until the middle of the 19th century. All the rest of the old drawings were cast at the factory “Arsenal” in the mid-90s, and use them as firing installations. st. Gospitalnaya, 24a metro station “Palace of Sport”, trolleybus stop “Museum“ Kiev Fortress ”
One of the “Bald”, the number of which argue: three or four Just below the house number 22 on Andrew's descent, in the depths, there is a steep cast-iron staircase at the top of the mountain. At the top, the trail on the left rests on a trampled clearing around a tall metal cross, a hippie pilgrimage site. It is customary to tie some laces and ribbons “for selling dreams” to the cross. The right direction leads to the very Castle Hill, which, according to the excavations, has been inhabited for at least four thousand years. Its last settlers were Soviet telecommunications workers, but they also left, leaving a fallen peleng tower alone. If in order to take a walk, have a snack or watch the panorama of Podil and the left bank of the Dnieper - the most beautiful option.
How to show your friends to the National Bank of Ukraine, the Presidential Administration and the top object of Kiev - the House with Chimeras (inside which is now the Polyclinic of the Cabinet of Ministers), lead them directly to the mansion in the Art Nouveau style on the corner of Institutskaya and Bankova with the sign “Union of Writers of Ukraine” You need to get inside, but not from the main entrance, unless your company is a writer. The seventh year here is an openly pleasant in all respects institution with high-quality traditional cuisine and a billiards room. They are busy here for lunch: the National Bank, the Cabinet of Ministers, the Presidential Administration, and writers, and without protection. The staff remembers how in the summer Igor Sarukhanov came in, demanded lard and tomato, but was satisfied with baked potatoes with garlic. And you can order a “Grafsky Meat” or the signature “Beefsteak in Brovary” by selecting Georgian or vintage Crimean wine on the map, and settle down on the summer terrace under the tent or under the lilac - quietly, unhurriedly, without a crowd. st. Banking, 2 253-33-27 11:00 - 23:00
A network of special narrow-gauge railways was built in the USSR in 1953 for the Railwayman's Day (August 2). This was done to interest children in real, non-toy, rail-coupling-car-diesel locomotives. Schoolchildren, starting from 12 years old, and now they are studying shunting controllers, guides and machinists. Putting on the form of the South-Western Railway, they operate a locomotive on the spans between Vishenka and Yablonka stations and on a 100-meter railway bridge over the steep rail, serving the tracks and two trains of a mini-diesel locomotive and four cars. According to ticket stubs, the volume of passenger traffic is considered: it is possible that in the jubilee year you will become the 5 millionth passenger. st. Shamrylo, 4 (in the Syretsky Forest Park) 458-4834, Sun 11:00 - 16:00 other days on request tickets: 0,68 UAH. children, 1.36 UAH. adult, children under 10 free
Tunnels, abandoned mines, earthen redoubts, looted military cemetery. A minimum of fantasy plus a crowd of Tolkiens. If you look for where to join the fighting of several eras, where against muskets and mortars - swords, bows, arrows, so it is here. After passing through the supermarket “Great Kyshenya”, you can have an excellent picnic: there are few people, secluded places and a lot cleaner than on Trukhanov Island. st. Kikvidze, interchange to Boryspil, entrance directly to the forest road
This is really a whole club: a restaurant and a cafe-bar on the second floor and another cafe on the third. Everywhere there is a muffled light, as when watching, and certainly one of the filmmakers. For some reason, citizens, even crowding in the vast domkinochny foyer at exhibitions and fairs of the domestic light industry, think that all these institutions are open only for their own. Citizens, do not deprive yourself of pleasure with quality, without fuss, at fair prices, dine at the nostalgic Babylon, whose current director Anatoly Alexanyan is the only restaurant director in Kiev: he gladly sits at the Forster red piano for very honorable or loved ones guests. One of them, Alik Shpilyuk, knows Alexanyan's secret: an inconspicuous door behind “Babylon” leads to a small studio, where he records very good music with friends in a relatively quiet day for a restaurant. At the time of the former director Pavel Bagratovich Markarova, Aleksanyan accompanied the jazz top singer Natalia Gure on the same piano. And Pavel Bagratovich himself set out from the hall Vladimir Konkin, who was drunk, who loudly called himself Pavka Korchagin, and cordially welcomed David Yanovich Cherkassky, who now prefers Babylon to all other taverns and parties. st. Saksaganskogo, 6 227-4513 restaurant and cafe-bar 11:00 - 23:00 cafe 10:00 - 20:00
On the business card of the cafe it is written: “The only refectory theater in Kiev”, it’s theatrical buffet, or cafe. There are two entrances: through the terrace of the summer terrace with wicker furniture, and into the next door with the service entrance to the Lesia Ukrainka Theater (the glass wall between them creates the illusion of theatrical space). From here, go a long corridor past the door in “Zakulis” (art-cafe for dinner parties with grand furniture and an aquarium). The walls are plastered with black-and-white theater posters, on which abundant autographs of tele-photo-theater stars are left — they are very interesting to read while waiting for an order. They cook tasty food, serve it efficiently, ask for money moderately and most importantly - what a pleasure to meet in the hall the innocent dinner of theatrical composer Shura Kokhanovsky, whose performance is being prepared for staging by the theater. They will release it, and Shura will also write something on the wall. st. Pushkinskaya 17 234-2202 8:00 - 23:00
Despite the presence of the address, this landscape with the name “Kitaevskaya Pustyn” is not easy to find. We must move along Science Ave. (from the Lybidskaya metro station, go by minibus to Korchevaty, or by car, and even by bicycle) to Kitaevskaya Street, and then follow just a jingle. There always rings. Because there are two churches (Troitsky, in the characteristic style of Ukrainian baroque, built by Semyon Kovnir, the author of an entire street in Lavra) and another building in which, according to the latest legend, the Templars live and work. And under this all - caves left over from the underground monastery of the XIV century. And around there is a chain of natural lakes in the shape of a horseshoe, from which springs spring like fountains, as if whales are hiding on the bottom. And above the lakes there is a semicircular mountain - you can walk and walk. st. Kitaevskaya, 1
Candles chestnuts, Ukrainian Madonna and the head of either an adult Mowgli, or a tractor driver laid out on the wall of the building of the Western Museum, Vladimir Ovchinnikov, who directed the museum until 1978. They say that he was engaged in this every day from 7 am, for his own pleasure and with his own money. It is clear that Ovchinnikov wanted everyone to see the mosaic, but nowhere, except for the inner courtyard of his museum, he was allowed to work. But thanks to this circumstance unthinkable characters are still alive. The courtyard of the Museum of Western and Eastern Art. Bogdan and Varvara Khanenko entrance through the gateway of the house number 17 on the street. Tereshchenko