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Secret Kiev or a city that we do not notice

The fact is that the territory on which this or that house stands is unique and even unexpected.

In the center, at the beginning of the boulevard of Taras Shevchenko (where the buildings of the five-star Premier Palace), two hundred years ago there was a burial place - a cemetery for Lutherans: rainwater periodically "washed away the sandy soil, now and then laying coffins."

For example, in the center, at the beginning of the boulevard of Taras Shevchenko (where the buildings of the five-star Premier Palace), two hundred years ago there was a burial place - a cemetery for Lutherans: the rainwater periodically "washed away the sandy soil, now and then laying coffins." And in the Mikhailovskaya Square, even more ancient times, the Uniates were buried. When in 1868 there they began to break down the square, they discovered a lot of human remains. In the 20th century, many Kiev cemeteries were demolished and built: the former necropolises of Askold's grave, Schekavitsa (where the radio tower now stands), on Castle Hill, in the Cyril Grove, etc., are well-known about the destroyed Jewish cemeteries on the site of the television center, a botanical garden on the Zverinets (Hi Triumph) ... A skyscraper rose in front of the Intercession Monastery on the bones and only the brick gates that once led to the Ascension church and the cemetery still stand, marked with a sign "Artema, 46". The prestigious Lukyanovka. Tsvintor emerged spontaneously and according to descriptions of the end of the 19th century: "On the territory of the necropolis, freely roamed the cattle of Lukyanov's inhabitants, and" these animals dump crosses and lattices at graves, pigs tear out the graves and tear out the bones of the dead, dragging them all over the cemetery. "In 1946 year on the newly paved street of Belorusskaya a tram was opened that used to go through Melnikov, and on the place of the cemetery, its turn ring was arranged, and adjacent areas of Kiev higher engineering radio engineering (KVIRTU) and Motozavod .... It is easy to "calculate" the place of the former cemetery on the city's plan: the directions of the streets of Belorusskaya and Pugacheva will intersect, the Kopylovskoye cemetery is exactly opposite the church of Kirillov and the hospital.Kurenevka residents used it because of the cramped cemetery Parish Petropavlovskaya church, then the land was assigned to a new Kurenivka cemetery (behind Syretsky street), and a small Kopylovsky necropolis was declared closed in 1927. In 1962 the city executive committee decided to liquidate the Kopylovskiy cemetery. Now, opposite the Church of St. Cyril's, a green slope, at the beginning of Zakharievskaya street new apartment houses have grown. And deep under the slope hidden forgotten burial.

  • - There was a Jewish bazaar on the square of Victory Square. Evbaz was called.
  • - The Verkhovna Rada is located on the site of an Indian cemetery.
  • - On the territory of the hospital on the silkworm, there were burials of the plague sick with plague. Now there is building ...
  • - Somewhere I read that in the territory of Troyeshchina there used to be pagan temples, and in general the place was ruined ...
  • - Part of Tsarskoe Selo and the territory of Suvorov - the burial place of people of the times of tsarism.

Cage with ravens
They are in the mountains, mind you, they are not thieves. Their names are Cyril, Carlos and Corbin. They live in a huge cage in an ordinary courtyard in the center of the city. The tenants of the courtyard, as well as their numerous guests, take care of them and make up legends about where these birds came from. Having visited the cage three times, we heard three completely different stories. So, someone Arthur assured us that the birds met here quite by accident. At first a couple arrived in the courtyard - Corbin and Carlos. Then came Cyril, and then formed a love triangle: the old Corbin became jealous of Carlos to Cyril, so Corbin was taken to a separate sector in a common cage. ul. Reitarskaya, 9, in the courtyard.
Lift for one
According to the certificate given to us by the old woman who lived in this house all her life, the elevator was made by order of some important minister in the 50s. The minister believed that the big elevators threatened his safety, and preferred to ride from floor to floor in solitude. The elevator is really tiny, the two of you can fit there only if you are striving for true intimacy. ul. Proreznaya.
Destroyer on the Rybalsky Island
He is the monitor "Zheleznyakov", the ship is a legend. Basic information about its history and characteristics can be read in the same place on the memorial board, but it is not necessary to go there at all. The place is good because: firstly, it's easy to climb the ship through the ship, and secondly, it's almost always quiet on the Rybalsky Island, it's nice and sunbathing (on concrete slabs), and swinging (on the swings that are always empty) and swim (in the Dnieper, which is not always clean, but close by). from the street. Turn the lower shaft to the cable-stayed bridge.
With the jubilee-Peter in this sense, Kiev is difficult to compete. As far as we know, we have only two houses-wells. The house, sandwiched between the streets of Gorodetsky and Stanislavsky, is built in the form of a square, that is, if you manage to get into the attic, you can go around the perimeter of the whole house. Another, designed by the same principle, is located on the street. Tereshchenkovskaya, exactly behind the monument to Shevchenko. ul. Gorodetsky 12/3 st. Tereshchenkovskaya 13
Monument to a single mother
Who came to mind to establish this bleak monument next to the Central Registry Office, is unknown. Nevertheless, she is there, a single woman with a child, her solitude challenging both the newlyweds in the registry office, and the happy families chewing burgers in neighboring McDonald's. Central Registry Office of Victory Avenue, 11
Parachute Tower
A marvelous structure, from where no one has been jumping for a long time, since the daughter of some nomenklatura chief was allegedly broken there. Today, the parachute tower is just another reason to go to Trukhanov Island, walk through the forest and swim naked.
Museum near the locomotive
A small, toy-like locomotive with the name "sheep" (series OB) stands a hundred meters from the entrance to the KPI Palace. The building, to which the locomotive stands sideways, is the State Polytechnic Museum, a huge exposition on the development of technology in Ukraine. In the section of informatics and cosmonautics, for example, the first Russian telephone exchange in 1886, the first Zaporozhets, lamp radios, phonographs, televisions with a screen like a matchbox, the oldest computers of the size of a house, printing machines and planes - all man-made, that rides, swims, flies and at the same time rumbles, grinds and clanks. The museum opened for the 100th anniversary of Politekh (September 14, 1998) Leonid Kuchma. They say that in honor of his visit, the crack in the tile was manually painted over with a white proof-reader. Victory avenue, 37, building 6 241-7717 9:00 - 17:00 break 13:00 - 14:00 entrance free reservation of excursions
Toilet in the Bessarabian courtyard
A patriarchal place in the very center of the city is for some reason persistently ignored by the majority of Kievites, who are in a hurry to get the need in other paid or free public places. Rare institution, equally pompous and smelly, where, with absolute availability, despite free admission, there are no queues even during the festivities. Khreshchatyk, 27, in the courtyard of the casino "Red Lion"
Cross-country ski jump
Tramplins, well-groomed or absolutely neglected, for some reason they loved to shoot in films and clips Moscow directors. Up to that it was realized that only stewardesses competed with springboards in this sense last year. Such a photogenic monument of developed sports industry of the Soviet time is in Kiev. It's nice that our springboard has found a much more everyday use: here they drink beer and contemplate the city vanity. Through the Republican Stadium upstairs or from the Laboratory Lane
"Old Kiev"
A nice inexpensive basement cafe in the very center, renovated ten years ago, has since ceased to be the main hippian point of the city, but has neither got a luxurious hall, nor a summer playground, nor air conditioning, nor good music - that's why there's no one here to interfere in summer you snack. They say that here a little gay people live - maybe they do not lie. ul. Khreshchatyk, 52 234-2503, 9:00 - 24:00
The Tatarka hills
From other popular and popular places for picnics (Hydropark, Pushcha-Voditsa) Tatarka differs in that there are terraces and shady areas, taking one of which you can be sure that someone else will not be located next door to you. In addition, there is clean air, from here you can see an excellent view of Obolon and Rybalsky Island. Tatarka is not far from the center, so it's quite easy to get here. Tatarka is located between Lukyanovka and Podol. Get better here from the street. Mountainous
Pylon with Gorky in the metro "University"
The first section of the Kiev metro - just a little bit more than 5 km - was opened between the stations Vokzalnaya and Dnepr in 1960. People went for a drive on business and simply to look. Then the exit from the station "University" was opened directly to the Botanical Garden of the University. The reminder of this in the vestibule was the incredible magnitude of the Kalanchoe, begonias and cacti. In the lower hall, eight gypsum busts of Ukrainian and Russian cultural figures are still looking out of niches in pink and marble pylons. It is known for sure that the pebbles and shells imprinted in the marble slab under Maxim Gorky refer, like the plate itself, to the Cretaceous period - and this is not in the Geology Museum of the Academy of Sciences, but just like that. Metro "University", the lower hall
Wall for rock climbing
The main place in Kiev for beginners and venerable alpinists is that they train here at any time of the year. It's a pleasure to watch them, but it's better to join them. Mountaineers - the people are friendly, they will gladly give the necessary advice, and, perhaps, someday they will even take with them to Elbrus. Metro Arsenalnaya, Green Theater
House with cats on Gogol
This century-old 4-storey asymmetric building is erroneously attributed to Gorodetsky. A huge lancet window at the bottom of the right wing is guarded by a pair of cat-bas-reliefs, on the second floor, awesome human faces are fashioned, near the staircases are owls and again muzzles. All modern, this house spoils: and a stupid pompous entrance, and a too noticeable bronze tablet, and eurowindows in the left wing. And the bust of the scientist-mechanic Stepan Timoshenko looks just right. And on the 4th floor, on the right, until 1995, lived a wonderful satirist Garik Conn with his grandmother and ficuses in tubs. ul. Gogolevskaya 23
Peoples Friendship Park
The immense space between the left and right banks of the Dnieper, which was adapted to the park even in Soviet times. Having come here on a day off, you can participate simultaneously in bicycle races, rally and dog show. It's a pleasure to just walk among the myriad picnicking people. Metro Petrovka avt / tr stop "Friendship Park of Peoples"
The Moscow Bridge
People who have a certain skill and some craziness, climb the galleries under the supports of the bridge and move from one shore to another in this way. For the less decisive, at least a new look at a seemingly familiar construction is guaranteed. metro Petrovka avt / tr stop "Moskovsky Most"
Automotive observation deck
The only place in the city, from where you can see the entire left-bank Kyiv, without leaving the car, without risking anything at the same time. Entry free and police officers are rare. For lack of a cinema in the open air in the city - also a great option for a romantic evening with a loved one. turn from the street. January Uprising to the gallery "Lavra" to the left along the paved road
Smorodinsky Descent "Khrushchev Road"
The shortest path between Podol and Tatarka was built in the days of Nikita Khrushchev as the first secretary of the Ukrainian Central Committee. The best place for extreme driving: a complex cobbled forest serpentine with sharp dull turns is great for checking brakes and nerves. ul. Nagornaya Street. Frunze, 85
Plaza de Santiago de Chile
Few Kyivans know that such an area really exists. In the center of the square is a monument with the symbol of the city of Santiago de Chile and its own coat of arms. They say that if you look at this monument long enough, it seems that the coat of arms goes up and down it. We checked. Really goes. Obolon, crossing of the Prospect of Heroes of Stalingrad and Malinovsky Street
Concrete ship
It is known only that a concrete structure similar to a submarine was built in the 1930s as a strategic object. The security guard of the adjacent territory, Mikhail Ivanovich, for example, is absolutely sure that the building is designed in case of war, so that the cavalry can move to the other bank of the Dnieper. The replacement of Mikhail Ivanovich Anatoly Alekseyevich and his colleague agrees. From the left of the "Show Park" in Obolon
"Olzhin Dvir"
9 years ago, here the walls were covered with a variety of paper currency, and customers happily began to contribute their design to the design: car plates of different countries, equestrian ammunition, headdresses from the confederate to the stelevar visor, kerosene lamps with sewing machines and balalaikas. The most unsuccessful leave here business cards - their place on the wall behind the bar counter. In the sense of food - a little expensive for an institution, where it is smoked, but differently: from the salted salad to the dish "Corrida" (bovine eggs from meat rows of the Podolsky market in garlic sauce). In the sense of pastime - you can loudly talk and play music in an acoustic way, like the regulars - party lovers of all stripes. trans. Desyatinniy, 7 212-2364, 212-3962
Monument to Alexander II
The only surviving monument from the Roman family to the family member of the Romanov family, Mark Antokolsky, can be seen from the second floor of the museum. You can enter the courtyard with the help of kindly caretakers, an easy interest of the guard or under the pretext of imaginary scientific work. Before the revolution, Alexander II stood on the pedestal, which is now Taras Shevchenko in the park with the same name. The patio of the Museum of Russian Art st. Tereshchenkovskaya, 9
Oksamit on Proreznaya
The institution is listed in the city office for the department of wine and vodka products since the forties of the last century (and the building and even a hundred and fifty years). It somehow reminds both Aksenov's "Male Club" and a shop somewhere in Gagra, and in general - thoroughly through the Soviet one: deaf burgundy curtains on the windows, dermatian stools pressed against plastic standing tables, brutal woodcarving, heavy sour smell of a coffee maker. Particularly touching are three earthenware cups with broken hands and public teaspoons: one for coffee, the other for tomato juice, and the third for rinsing water after the first two. Behind the screen they let them through a glass, biting a sandwich, quite respectable people. They like to come here: once they were students, now they grew up. ul. Proreznaya, 22 229-4727, 9:00 - 21:00
Cannon "The Kiev Fortress"
"Oblique caponier" is known primarily because he is still fighting with the guardhouse at the metro station "Arsenalnaya" for the right to be considered a prison of Taras Shevchenko. In fact, it is a great place to walk, although without picnics, but it is spacious. Children are brought here to look at guns. Of all the weapons installed on the shaft, real combat weapons are only two: cannons with Russian arms, which were in service with the Russian army until the middle of the 19th century. All the rest under the old drawings were cast at the Arsenal plant in the mid-90's, and they are used as salute installations. ul. Hospital, 24a metro station "Palace of Sports", stop trolleybus "Museum" Kiev Fortress "
Castle Mountain
One of the "Bald", the number of which are disputed: three or four Slightly below the house number 22 on Andrew's descent, in the depths, there is a steep staircase to the top of the mountain. At the top of the trail on the left rests against a trampled meadow around a high metal cross - a hippie pilgrimage site. On the cross, it is customary to knot some laces and ribbons "for a dream come true." The right direction leads to the very Castle Hill, which, according to excavations, is inhabited for at least four thousand years. Its last settlers were Soviet signalmen, but they also left, leaving the fallen bearing tower. If in order to walk, eat or see the panorama of Podol and the left bank of the Dnieper - a beautiful option.
Cafe-bar "Ukrainian Brovar"
What to show your friends to the National Bank of Ukraine, the Presidential Administration and the top-level object of Kiev - House with chimeras (inside which is now the clinic of the Cabinet of Ministers), lead them immediately to the Art Nouveau mansion on the corner of Institutskaya and Bankova with the signboard of the Writers' Union of Ukraine. You need to get inside, but not from the front door, unless your company is not a writer. The seventh year here is open pleasant in all respects institution with high-quality traditional cuisine and a hall for billiards. Here they go busily to dinner: the National Bank, the Cabinet, the Presidential Administration, writers, and without protection. The staff remembers how Igor Sarukhanov came in the summer, demanded lard and a tomato, but was satisfied with baked potatoes with garlic. And you can order yourself "Meat according to the Count's" or the firm "Beefsteak in Brovarski", choosing Georgian or vintage Crimean wine on the map, and to settle on the summer area under the tent or under the lilac - quietly, leisurely, without crowds. ul. Bankova, 2 253-33-27 11:00 - 23:00
Toy railway
A network of special narrow-gauge railways was built in the USSR in 1953 by the Day of Railway Workers (August 2). This was done to interest children with real, not toy, rails-couplers-locomotive-locomotives. Schoolchildren, starting from the age of 12, and now they are studying there for shunting dispatchers, guides and machinists. Wearing the shape of the South-Western railway, they control the locomotive on the stretches between the stations "Vishenka" and "Yablonka" and on a 100-meter railway bridge across a steep yoke, serve the tracks and two convoys from a mini diesel locomotive and four wagons. On the spine of tickets consider the volume of passenger transportation: perhaps, it is in the anniversary year you will become a 5 millionth passenger. ul. Shamrylo, 4 (Syretsky Forest Park) 458-4834, Sun 11:00 - 16:00 Other days on request Tickets: 0,68 UAH. for children, 1.36 UAH. adult, children under 10 years free of charge
Redoubts on Bald Mountain
Tunnels, abandoned mines, earth redoubts, looted military cemetery. A minimum of imagination plus a crowd of Tolkienists. If you look for where to join the fighting actions of several eras, where against the musket and mortar - swords, bows, arrows, so it is here. Having passed through the supermarket "Velyka Kyshenya", you can arrange an excellent picnic: people are few, secluded places and much cleaner than on Trukhanov Island. ul. Kikvidze, exit to Borispol, entrance directly to the forest road
"Babylon" in the House of Cinema
It really is a whole club: a restaurant and a cafe-bar on the second floor and another cafe on the third. Everywhere a muffled light, as during the viewing, and certainly one of the movie-goers. For some reason, citizens, even crowding in the vast housekillery foyer at the fairs of the domestic light industry, think that all these institutions are open only to their own. Citizens, do not deprive yourself of pleasure in quality, without fuss, at good prices to dine in the nostalgic "Babylon", whose current director Anatoly Alexanian is the only restaurant manager playing in Kiev: he gladly sits down for the red piano "Foerster" for very honorable or most beloved ones guests. One of them, Alik Shpilyuk, knows the secret of Aleksanyan: the inconspicuous door behind "Babylon" leads to a small studio where he records very good music with his friends in a relatively quiet daytime restaurant. In the days of the former director of Pavel Bagratovich Markarov, Alexanian accompanied the jazz top singer Natalia Gure here on the same piano. And Pavel Bagratovich himself drove Vladimir Conkin out of the hall, drunk by loudly calling himself Pavel Korchagin, and cordially greeted David Yanovich Cherkassky, who still prefers "Babylon" to all other taverns and parties. ul. Saksaganskogo, 6 227-4513 restaurant and cafe-bar 11:00 - 23:00 cafe 10:00 - 20:00
"House of Bergogne"
On the business card of the cafe it is written: "The only refectory in Kiev", he is a theater buffet, or a cafe. There are two entrances: through the terrace of the summer area with wicker furniture, and to the next door with the service entrance to the Lesya Ukrainka Theater (the glass wall between them creates the illusion of theater space). From here, walk along the long corridor past the door to the "Zakulis" (an art cafe for dinners with parade furniture and an aquarium). The walls are covered with black and white theatrical posters, which are full of autographed tele-photo-theatrical stars - they are very interesting to read while waiting for an order. Prepare delicious, serve promptly, money for it is requested by the average, and most importantly - what a pleasure to meet in the hall of the innocently dining theater composer Shura Kochanovsky, whose play is being prepared for staging by the theater. They'll let me out, and Shura will also write something on the wall. ul. Pushkinskaya, 17 234-2202 8:00 - 23:00
Despite the presence of the address, this landscape with the name "Kitaevskaya Desert" is not easy to find. It is necessary to move along Science Ave (from the Lybidska subway go by minibus to Korchevatogo, or by car, and even by bicycle) to Kitaevskaya street, and then follow literally to the ringing. It always rings. Because there are two churches (Trinity, in the characteristic style of the Ukrainian Baroque, built by Semyon Kovnir, the author of the whole street in the Lavra) and another building in which, according to the latest legend, the Templars live and work. And under this all - the caves left from the underground monastery of the XIV century. And around - a chain of natural lakes in the shape of a horseshoe, from which fountains beat the springs, as if at the bottom are hiding whales. And above the lakes is a semicircular mountain - you can walk and walk. ul. Kitaevskaya, 1
Candles of chestnuts, the Ukrainian Madonna and the head of either an adult Mowgli, or a tractor driver laid on the wall of the building of the Western Museum Vladimir Ovchinnikov, who was director of the museum until 1978. It is said that he was engaged in this every day from 7 am, for his own pleasure and for his own money. It is clear that Ovchinnikov wanted to see the mosaic all, but nowhere, except for the inner yard of his museum, he was not allowed to work. But thanks to this circumstance, unthinkable characters are still alive. The inner courtyard of the Museum of Western and Oriental Art. Bogdan and Varvara Khanenko entrance through the gateway of the house number 17 on the street. Tereshchenkovskaya